Intex Mariner 4 modifications and Tips

[Bass to Mouth]

Hello everybody, I just signed up and have some questions if any one can answer them. So for the hardwood floor are you suppose to lay it over the slats or not and does any one have a livewell for bass on their intex? Thanks.

 

[mrdrh99]

As far as the floor goes it's up to you. If you're going to be up and moving around a lot like I do I think you should last on top. But plenty of others have gone without and like it just as much. Remember the more you mod the longer it takes to get on the water and the more a bear transport becomes. I don't know if anyone with a live well but I'm sure a cooler and a fish tank aerator should work. Post pics!

 

[DaveDomingo]

Hi, all.

Don't you hate dealing with the pinch valve on the keel chamber? I do!

Makes me wonder if anyone has tried either of these things:

Making a wooden 'spine' on the underside of the floor to obviate the inflatable keel chamber. I'm picturing some inverted tombstone-shaped blocks screwed to the bottom of the floor and then bridged with strips of plywood (and covered with padding/carpet).

Adapting the pinch valve of the keel chamber to a Boston valve or some other kind of one-way valve. I'm wondering if there is an existing type of fitting that could be glued to the inside of the pinch valve so a Boston valve could be screwed onto it.

 

[Ffclaws]

Bass, I don't lay my floor over the slats. It is 1/2" ply painted with two coats of exterior paint (after a good sanding and edge rounding). It is plenty stable for me, 5' 10" 180 lbs.

 

[Rakumi]

Hello everybody, I just signed up and have some questions if any one can answer them. So for the hardwood floor are you suppose to lay it over the slats or not and does any one have a livewell for bass on their intex? Thanks.

Hey Bass, you can go on amazon and check out some floating net cages to keep your catches in. They are like 20 bucks or less.

 

[Rakumi]

Hey everyone,

i just recently bought a mariner 4 to supplement my fly fishing up here in vermont, and i have a couple questions regarding modifications. i basically got this thing to get me into some lakes and bigger river floats where i can't wade in while fly fishing. looks like MrDr is the only one ive seen using this thing for fly fishing, so since that will be my primary use for it (i.e. standing and casting) i wanted to know what method generates the most stable flooring for standing up in the boat. (for example is it better to cut the floor to the full width, or is the 27" width laid over top of the factory slat floor stable enough, etc.) im also trying to keep this thing pretty spartan (light) since my hope is to use this thing on my own to get away for a while, and since im planing on switching from trolling through the lakes and rowing during a river float, im hoping to put together some form of pedestal seat that can be moved between the two positions. im pretty new to this whole thing and ive been reading this thread page by page studying up, and im feeling a little paralyzed with choices, i was hoping if i outline what im looking to do with it the wizards on this thread can make suggestions on how to outfit the thing. id appreciate any help you guys would be willing to give. thanks in advance.

Hey Danro,
Well I will start with saying I did not know that was called fly fishing but I guess since building my wood floor, fly fish. I have an Excursion 5 but it is the same difference as far as setting up (except the part about putting the wood floor over the slate or not). Like you, I wanted a simple setup so I will let you know the route I went and this might fit you as well. Wood floor with indoor/outdoor carpet, Battery in MinnKota power center, MinnKota endura 30, a 1x1 tool cart to hold my mushroom anchor which is tied to my front pull handle of the boat and my cooler as my bench with a seat cushion on top. I use the cooler as a storage container also. So my boat stays very clean and clear so I have room to stand up and move around. Now you said you want to do a pedestal seat, maybe you can buy a cooler and build a simple wood base that wraps around the top of a cooler that has a pedestal seat drilled into the wood base. This way you can just lift it off the cooler when you want to get in it for storage. Well good luck and update us on what you decide.

 

[Rakumi]

Danro the biggest step is to realize what a difference a solid floor makes..do that and your motivation, if still needed, will show you what will be the best mod for you. Once you stand on the floor ..you will be hooked. Just Do it. There really isn't a best way. Lots of great ideas that all work well. There is a tendency to overthink. The biggest problem occurs when you think more floor is better, and the resultant weight gain makes portability a long loud "groan", and a huge Pain in the......A natomy........when setting up and tearing down

I Chose to go with (for my Excursion 5) 3/4 inch (I may have over done it) 2 piece clam shell design (with hinges). Ultra sturdy, it is a bit heavy lifting it over to the boat. I carry the boat to the water's edge first. But once the floor is in, it is super solid.

 

[Bass to Mouth]

Thank you mrdrh99,ffclaws, and rakumi. @rakumi I was planning to use the livewell in a cartop bass fishing tournament and I'm not sure if they will allow the net but I'll ask them and if they do allow it then it would save me some a lot of money.

 

[Bass to Mouth]

Sorry!

 

[Bass to Mouth]

Smh

 

[erikr]

Edited

 

[erikr]

Hello all, Im really glad I found this forum and thread. Just bought the Mariner 4 last week and really want to add some stuff to enhance it for fishing. I am from the suburbs of buffalo NY and fish in Lake Erie. I took the M4 out yesterday and love the feel. I have not purchased the mount and motor yet and just using the oars to get around is a fun but tiring effort. Can anyone tell me if there is a noticeable difference between the 30lb thrust trolling motor and the 40 lb? and how does this boat handle rough weather days?

 

[flukesofnature]

Eri...

 

[flukesofnature]

Erikr
I have the mariner 3..with floor , added built seats, big battery, and Minn kota 40 trolling motor.( and me at 250+)...and in the wind, it has a mind of its own. I just tried a configuration where most of my weight is forward of the swivel/oars...and that slowed the "wanderlust" a little, but had to increase my reach to maneuver the handle on the the motor...So I think with most of the weight aft, the nose is in the is caught by the wind, easily pushing it around....I suppose the M 4 is that and more . There are some posts about using a drift sock, that may help.

 

[shadow_cruiser]

I finally had the chance to take the boat out twice this summer after buying it a year ago. My observations

* The oars need to be much longer. If you are stuck with a dead motor or battery and don't have a companion, these oars are not going to help you. Anybody have a link to a descent set of oars they are using?

* The inflatable seats are ok for the first hour but it becomes very tiresome on the back. I purchased these http://www.amazon.ca/Trademark-Inno...sr_1_5?s=sports&ie=UTF8&qid=1403491702&sr=1-5 which is just awesome. They don't go well with the inflatable seats but next time I will be using two coolers instead as seats. It kinda sucks because this decreases the portability of the boat.

* The manual pump on the boat is great but I could see the feet of it breaking any time now. Intex has released an upgraded version of the pump which is 5 inches taller, meaning more air and includes a port to deflate the boat. See here http://www.amazon.com/High-Output-Air-Pump-Double-Quick/dp/B00005017X. I personally spent the extra money and purchased this http://www.amazon.com/AIRHEAD-AHP-1...03492401&sr=1-3-catcorr&keywords=airhead+pump. I tested it and with the 28 amp draw, it uses 7ah to inflate and deflate the Mariner 4. I connect it to the boat battery so my car doesn't need to be near by.

* I drilled a few more holes in the top poles of the motor mount. I noticed the motor was bouncing up and down in the water when moving. Doing this drastically brought the bow of the boat down and the motor is no longer tucking under the boat. Probably the number one thing everyone should do when they get the composite motor mount.

* While I do enjoy using my 4hp Evinrude with this boat, I prefer the Minn Kota C2 50lb much better. This boat is a drifter and any little wind will carry it far from your fishing spot. I personally don't want to be dropping the anchor every time I stop the boat to fish. The pulling the the crank on the evinrude whenever I want to move is a hassle too.

* No punctures yet but purchased HH-66 as I have this product in the past, it's simply amazing http://www.outdoorfabricscanada.com/HH-66-Vinyl-Cement-Adhesive--Quart_p_2339.html. Dries in no time and can you out of pinch if you make a pinhole from a hook or something. Be sure to carry the manual pump, patch kit and cement with you at all times.

* I use this voltage chart http://cdn.vanillaforums.com/little...eUpload/ea/ccfa0c5d157fc728e26ee9046fbc51.jpg along with this motorcycle voltage readout http://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterproof-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item5b0140ad13&vxp=mtr which has two leads to connect to the battery. This is a must for anyone using a trolling motor. The minn kota battery gauge is ok but definitely is not accurate as it tells you in 100%,75% increments

 

[erikr]

Thanks for the input guys. I think im going to go with the Endura Max 40 as it will suit my purposes for now. Also would like to add the wooden floor but I see most everyone is using a 3 or 4 piece floor...Any reason other than ease of installation? Could I make a single piece floor ar at least a 2 piece floor? Why 3-4? I was thinking of tracing the rollup slate floor as a guide and short it by an inch or 2 and add carpet and pipe insulation and add it on top of the factory floor...seats will come at a different time. Also I got 2 10lb mushroom anchors to add to the bow and stern while fishing.

 

[flukesofnature]

Thanks Shadow cruiser-good info all the way around.
Regarding the oars....the interior diameter of the oar plastic sleeve holders is exactly the same as the outside diameter of 1 inch wood dowel,,available at H DEP ot or LOwes. I bought two pre-cut 4 foot dowels ( 1 inch) and replaced the upper section of the oars(sand paint ,seal etc) but this gives me a 6foot plus oar. They work very well and I snugged up the connection (plastic sleeve) with teflon tape around the screw threads.
I still feel that "snug" plus is as good as it gets..B/C the sleeves 1) could break under mammoth fishermans hands and 2) makes it impossible to undo for tear down. However...depending on your cash flow Ama AZ on offers several Oars at various prices.I have thought about replacing the entire Oar full length, (I need 6 foot or more) with one section 3/4 inch C-PVC pipe.. the difference in circumference results in the way they measure C-PVC as interior diameter( inside the pipe) which makes it almost perfect 1 inch fit into the Blade of the oar. I figured epoxy to bond and we are good to go...CPVC is very strong..light and won't break under extreme flexion..(rowing)...But the wood uppers and aluminum lowers I have now seems just fine thus far. Longer oars is a compromise for space , and packing needs.
Re: pump....In 1.5 years I have not used the pump (double quick 2) standing...short quick strokes holding the pump with both hands has worked...but I now use the coleman 12V off the Minn kota power center for the initial inflate(3/4) the I add motor mount,floor etc and finish the inflate by hand on the water. However, if you were to glue a short length of 1/4 inch ply 5 inches long to the foot section of the pump...you may solve the "breaking" worries
great idea RE: extra holes in the upper section of the composite motor mount....gonna do it!

ERIKR.. I have been happy with the two piece I made for the M3. Breaks down well and transports easy. If a person could live without a few extra inches at the end of each board( plywood is 96" in half for a two piece 48 inch ea) I could see one piece of plywood split in half for an M4 floor.The end space 3-5 inches on each end are not critical for support( Are you going to stand in those areas ever?) But to each his own...

 

[danro]

Hey guys, finally got around to starting on the wooden floor for the M4, (see photos) its one piece right now, 1/2" plywood, but im planning to cut it down to pieces for the sake of portability. ive got a few questions. right now the width is 33" which allows it to fit underneath the infalted tubes with a little bit of wiggle room. im thinking of trying to use it with the factory floor just to make sure the floor surface is bulletproof for standing and casting or just walking around. i was wondering if you guys think that the 1/2" ply will fit under the tubes with the factory floor without stressing the material or if i should cut it down so that the floor doesnt tuck under the tubes at all. i know there have been some posts on here about how people use the plywood floor with the factory floor but i cant remember details and i cant afford to page through the whole thread here at work. additionally, i was wondering what you guys have found to be the best way to seal this thing up. im looking into carpeting in the future, but will likely use it when its just sealed/painted for a little while until i can drum up the funds for the carpeting, so any help you guys can provide there would be awesome. ill keep posting as the thing moves along (likely with more questions as well) thanks for all the help, cant wait to get this thing out.

 

[danro]

Hey guys, finally got around to starting on the wooden floor for the M4, (see photos) its one piece right now, 1/2" plywood, but im planning to cut it down to pieces for the sake of portability. ive got a few questions. right now the width is 33" which allows it to fit underneath the inflated tubes with a little bit of wiggle room. im thinking of trying to use it with the factory floor just to make sure the floor surface is bulletproof for standing and casting or just walking around. i was wondering if you guys think that the 1/2" ply will fit under the tubes with the factory floor without stressing the material or if i should cut it down so that the floor doesnt tuck under the tubes at all. i know there have been some posts on here about how people use the plywood floor with the factory floor but i cant remember details and i cant afford to page through the whole thread here at work. additionally, i was wondering what you guys have found to be the best way to seal this thing up. im looking into carpeting in the future, but will likely use it when its just sealed/painted for a little while until i can drum up the funds for the carpeting, so any help you guys can provide there would be awesome. ill keep posting as the thing moves along (likely with more questions as well) thanks for all the help, cant wait to get this thing out.

 

[dragun23]

Thanks for the input guys. I think im going to go with the Endura Max 40 as it will suit my purposes for now. Also would like to add the wooden floor but I see most everyone is using a 3 or 4 piece floor...Any reason other than ease of installation? Could I make a single piece floor ar at least a 2 piece floor? Why 3-4? I was thinking of tracing the roll up slate floor as a guide and short it by an inch or 2 and add carpet and pipe insulation and add it on top of the factory floor...seats will come at a different time. Also I got 2 10lb mushroom anchors to add to the bow and stern while fishing.

I just decided to buy two pieces of plywood and make a 2 piece floor. Glad i did. It just seems WAY easier to install and transport for me. I have a Hyundai Elantra so i just fold down the rear seats and everything fits in the trunk nicely. Used the extra wood to make a seat base for a john boat seats and a center counter piece to go over the cooler. Good place to use for setting hooks and bait up. I painted both all four pieces with three coats of outdoor deck paint, and got the popular outdoor carpeting with the rubberized base. Used some 3M Super 7 spray adhesive on both floor pieces, then smoothed out the carpet and stapled it to the underside edge. I then covered the edges with 1/2 inch pipe insulators held on by clear silicone. Has really come out nice. I will try and get some pictures as well as the measurements for each piece on here soon. What i think i will do is create an album on Facebook and make it public. That way i cant put all the pics i have from initial setup to finished product up for anyone who wants to see.