Intex Mariner 4 modifications and Tips

[Starkonian]

Edit- what kind drift sock are you using? Im lookong at getting one too since I like to drift fish.

I don't have any experience with the HH66. I'm sure Marine Goop would work pretty well.

Regarding drift socks. I bought model # 10072 http://www.oceansouth.com/index.php/sea-anchors/seaanchordrogue-detail

It's 32' and cost $20 on ebay. You could step it up to the 42" if you really want to slow down. The 32" seems OK up to 15 knots of wind

http://www.ebay.com/itm/42-Drift-Sock-Sea-Anchor-Drogue-Sea-Brake-Fits-Boats-Up-To-25-Large-Size-/251735166081?hash=item3a9c95cc81

I watched your video. $50 was a steal. Nice motor. You need to make a wooden floor with seats and get off the side tube. The M-4 comfortably fits two fisherman and gear with a floor and pedestal/milk crate seats.

 

[Jiggyjay]

I don't have any experience with the HH66. I'm sure Marine Goop would work pretty well.

Regarding drift socks. I bought model # 10072 http://www.oceansouth.com/index.php/sea-anchors/seaanchordrogue-detail

It's 32' and cost $20 on ebay. You could step it up to the 42" if you really want to slow down. The 32" seems OK up to 15 knots of wind

http://www.ebay.com/itm/42-Drift-Sock-Sea-Anchor-Drogue-Sea-Brake-Fits-Boats-Up-To-25-Large-Size-/251735166081?hash=item3a9c95cc81

I watched your video. $50 was a steal. Nice motor. You need to make a wooden floor with seats and get off the side tube. The M-4 comfortably fits two fisherman and gear with a floor and pedestal/milk crate seats.

Yeah cant complain about buying it for $50.. goves me more money to mod this thing. Ill probabaly get some marine goop to get those rod holders installed.

So has anybody reinforced the mariners 4 floor, not the slate floor but the actual boat floor. Reading this thread and the complaints I read on amazon the floor seems to be the mariners weakest link. If you look at it its not that thick of a material and I can see it easily getting holes. I actually just patched up some holes on my floor. The first time I took it I noticed I had water in the boat but I wasnt sure if the boat was leaking or if it was from me since I put some water on the boat getting in. Then after reading the whole thread there were some people who got water in their boat from a leak so decided to just check mine to be safe. I turned the boat over, put a flash light under it and was able to find some spots that were brighter than the rest which were little holes. Ended up sealing it with some glue but now I want reinforce the floor by adding another vinyl layer or even just sealing it with glue.. thoughts?

 

[ScottishScript]

Yeah cant complain about buying it for $50.. goves me more money to mod this thing. Ill probabaly get some marine goop to get those rod holders installed.

So has anybody reinforced the mariners 4 floor, not the slate floor but the actual boat floor. Reading this thread and the complaints I read on amazon the floor seems to be the mariners weakest link. If you look at it its not that thick of a material and I can see it easily getting holes. I actually just patched up some holes on my floor. The first time I took it I noticed I had water in the boat but I wasnt sure if the boat was leaking or if it was from me since I put some water on the boat getting in. Then after reading the whole thread there were some people who got water in their boat from a leak so decided to just check mine to be safe. I turned the boat over, put a flash light under it and was able to find some spots that were brighter than the rest which were little holes. Ended up sealing it with some glue but now I want reinforce the floor by adding another vinyl layer or even just sealing it with glue.. thoughts?

I think everyone when they first get their Mariner 4 become obsessed with protecting the boat from the slightest scratch, which is only natural I guess. But having owned mine for a couple of years and used it countless times on the rugged glacial lochs here in Scotland, I have to say it really would take an unusual catastrophe to kill it.

Yes the floor is definitely the weak spot, especially where the floor joins the boat proper, but the sooner you accept you're going to encounter holes there, the sooner you'll be able to relax and enjoy your fishing. Once you become adept at dealing with adverse events, they become less of a concern.
I have a repair kit that's evolved over the past two years, everything from patches of all sizes, various glues etc. I even take a spare propeller for my Minn Kota, and most important of all, spare drive pins for it.

In all my trips I think I punctured the air ring section of the boat once by rubbing against a rock when setting off from shore. And I fixed it on the spot with a self adhesive bike puncture patch.

My friend on the other hand nearly destroyed his Mariner 4 when he ran over a rock in shallow water at speed. He tore a two inch gash in the floor right at the front, which very easily could have extended into the air section. Within minutes he was ankle deep in water. I mention this because if it had happened to me early on I would have wept. But when I saw it that day I just shrugged and told him it was no biggie, easy fix. And it was.

I guess what I'm saying is experience does make all the difference. Be prepared and have fun.

And don't fret if some little floor holes produce some water in the boat at the end of a session, you'll get that anyhow from a decent downpour.

I toyed with the idea of reinforcing the floor with a sheet of vinyl, but in the end didn't bother. Just be careful when putting the boat in the water and taking out. The most obvious thing to prevent damage, is to remove all the weight from within the boat before dragging it ashore.

I will say this however. Damage will occur when you're surprised by obstacles while at speed. I can't recommend enough having a fishfinder on board that has a depth alarm to warn you when surprise shallows are approaching. A few times it's saved me from full speed collisions with rocks that could have gutted the boat.

Anyway, good luck. We're almost into winter and the thread here goes extra quiet I've noticed. I was out last week and that morning mist is becoming more common, soon have to get out the thermals.

 

[Jiggyjay]

Scottish. Thanks for your input. Great pics btw. Yeah with winter coming I figure I would do the reinforcements since I wont be able to boat anyways. That will at least keep me busy through the winter and get me excited for spring. Not really into winter activities other than sleeping! =) got any advice on a fish finder? Think thats going to be my next major purchase. What are you using now? Oh and hows your board mod that you put on the motor mounts holding up? Im lookong into maybe doi ng that to hold downriggers and such.

 

[1idahoguy]

I'll add a few pictures from last weekend. I took my 4 year old out fishing for the afternoon in the Mariner 4. Water in the lakes and reservoirs around here are low, which is normal for this time of year. But there's also very few other folks on the water which makes for some great fishing. My little outboard continues to exceed my expectations.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/36457490/20151009_142931.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/36457490/20151009_143910.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/36457490/20151009_164152.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/36457490/20151009_164349.jpg

 

[ScottishScript]

Scottish. Thanks for your input. Great pics btw. Yeah with winter coming I figure I would do the reinforcements since I wont be able to boat anyways. That will at least keep me busy through the winter and get me excited for spring. Not really into winter activities other than sleeping! =) got any advice on a fish finder? Think thats going to be my next major purchase. What are you using now? Oh and hows your board mod that you put on the motor mounts holding up? Im lookong into maybe doi ng that to hold downriggers and such.

Hi Jiggy,

The custom transom mod works great, and I say that because I haven't been motivated to conceive a new version. It holds the engine, sonar and now three rods. I basically attached one of those expandable wall clips people use for hanging garden tools against the wall. This allows me to cram in a third smaller 7ft rod between the two that sit outwards from the boat. It lays across the top of both extender arms closer to the water and allows me to run smaller lures for smaller fish species.

I'll post some pics next time I'm out.

I use the Humminbird 120 Fishing Buddy fishfinder. It's basic but it works well and because it's all in one it's easy to clamp into the transom. Here's a link.

http://www.humminbird.com/Freshwater/Product-Category/Fishin-Buddy/

As for downriggers, they're not something I've had to deal with as my target fish - Pike - tend to hang out in the shallows. This means everything about my setup is designed to allow me to troll in waters as shallow as 3 feet and not get snagged up. If I ever decide to target Ferox Trout I'll worry about downriggers.
Having I said that, if you really need to go deep, I'm pretty sure you can use a combination of planers and paravanes to draw your lures both out from the boat and down without the need for an expensive and cumbersome onboard downrigger. See these links.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Orange-Deep...1bZ-7X5tyL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL70_SR70,45_

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Redesigned-...e=UTF8&qid=1445023736&sr=1-10&keywords=planer

I have never used them myself, but it may be a half way solution for your needs that prevents you having to make onboard modifications. I know other anglers who fish deeper lochs and they use them all the time.

If I were tasked to install onboard downrigger however, I'd design something that sits in the middle of the boat and stretches back top where you're sitting. Probably a hinged setup where it's placed down over the oar holders on both sides and lays flush with the boat to attach your downriggers.

Sort of shaped like a big H, with the centre line of the H running across the middle of the boat. This would give you a little bench in front of your seat to hang lures and fit cup holders. Also, the top ends of the H could be fitted with Scotty rod holders for when you have company. The whole thing could be easily secured to the oar holders on both sides. Make sense?

Actually I just took half an hour away from writing this to work up a graphic, hope this helps.

 

[ScottishScript]

I'll add a few pictures from last weekend. I took my 4 year old out fishing for the afternoon in the Mariner 4. Water in the lakes and reservoirs around here are low, which is normal for this time of year. But there's also very few other folks on the water which makes for some great fishing. My little outboard continues to exceed my expectations.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/36457490/20151009_142931.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/36457490/20151009_143910.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/36457490/20151009_164152.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/36457490/20151009_164349.jpg

Nice pics. And if you're wondering where all your water goes, it's here, in Scotland. Because it always ends up in Scotland.

 

[Jiggyjay]

Hi Jiggy,

The custom transom mod works great, and I say that because I haven't been motivated to conceive a new version. It holds the engine, sonar and now three rods. I basically attached one of those expandable wall clips people use for hanging garden tools against the wall. This allows me to cram in a third smaller 7ft rod between the two that sit outwards from the boat. It lays across the top of both extender arms closer to the water and allows me to run smaller lures for smaller fish species.

I'll post some pics next time I'm out.

I use the Humminbird 120 Fishing Buddy fishfinder. It's basic but it works well and because it's all in one it's easy to clamp into the transom. Here's a link.

http://www.humminbird.com/Freshwater/Product-Category/Fishin-Buddy/

As for downriggers, they're not something I've had to deal with as my target fish - Pike - tend to hang out in the shallows. This means everything about my setup is designed to allow me to troll in waters as shallow as 3 feet and not get snagged up. If I ever decide to target Ferox Trout I'll worry about downriggers.
Having I said that, if you really need to go deep, I'm pretty sure you can use a combination of planers and paravanes to draw your lures both out from the boat and down without the need for an expensive and cumbersome onboard downrigger. See these links.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Orange-Deep...1bZ-7X5tyL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL70_SR70,45_

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Redesigned-...e=UTF8&qid=1445023736&sr=1-10&keywords=planer

I have never used them myself, but it may be a half way solution for your needs that prevents you having to make onboard modifications. I know other anglers who fish deeper lochs and they use them all the time.

If I were tasked to install onboard downrigger however, I'd design something that sits in the middle of the boat and stretches back top where you're sitting. Probably a hinged setup where it's placed down over the oar holders on both sides and lays flush with the boat to attach your downriggers.

Sort of shaped like a big H, with the centre line of the H running across the middle of the boat. This would give you a little bench in front of your seat to hang lures and fit cup holders. Also, the top ends of the H could be fitted with Scotty rod holders for when you have company. The whole thing could be easily secured to the oar holders on both sides. Make sense?

Actually I just took half an hour away from writing this to work up a graphic, hope this helps.

Nice drawing! Thanks for that. Yeah I was actually thinking of doing a little side board like that but didn't think about doing a cross board to connect them all.I really want too much mods on my mariner since I'll be inflating and deflating wheb using it. Wish I had the space for a boat and trailer oh well this will do I'll look into those divers and boards. I've also actually read about DIY downriggers using old reel and braided fishing line. Might go that route to be cheap and see how it goes. Thanks for the tip scottish

 

[Jiggyjay]

Nice pics. And if you're wondering where all your water goes, it's here, in Scotland. Because it always ends up in Scotland.

It ends up in california! They're in a real bad drought right now. I live in utah which is not far from idaho. Our reservoirs are low as well. Typically the water ends up being used as drinking water.

 

[ScottishScript]

Nice drawing! Thanks for that. Yeah I was actually thinking of doing a little side board like that but didn't think about doing a cross board to connect them all.I really want too much mods on my mariner since I'll be inflating and deflating wheb using it. Wish I had the space for a boat and trailer oh well this will do I'll look into those divers and boards. I've also actually read about DIY downriggers using old reel and braided fishing line. Might go that route to be cheap and see how it goes. Thanks for the tip scottish

I inflate and deflate mine too every time I take it out, which is why I make foldable mods whenever I can. If you hinge that big H in the right places you'll be surprised how small you can make it for transport. My custom transom unbolts and folds flat taking up no space at all. But I agree, try out the cheapest, simplest solution first and take it from there.

 

[Starkonian]

I recommend a locator which has sonar AND down imaging or it's equivalent, different manufacturers use various names for down imaging. Look for the split screen option so you can run both side by side. Traditional sonar is best for fish ID and down imaging is best for structure ID and clarity. Used together moves your ability to "see" what's under the boat to another level. Link below for an example unit, check Ebay etc. for better prices. I ALWAYS rig the M-4 at waters edge on a thick tarp. I only beach while out and about after making sure the bottom doesn't have any sharp rocks, sticks etc. I wear knee high boots and if the bottom looks sketchy I get out before I hit shore to scope it out better.

 

[Jiggyjay]

Thanks stark. Looking at the helix 5 cheapest one is $230 at amazon. So the difference between that and a basic setup for like $100 is that it provides imaging? My biggest thing is I need a unit that shows depth and where the fish is at. Would a $200 unit do that better than the a $100 unit? Don't have the money to splurge on a FF so really don't want something to will break the bank. If $100 unit is gonna give me the ability to find fish and depth I would rather go with that but if the $200 unit find fish alot better and easier to read then I wouldn't mind paying the extra $$.

So reading this thread is seems most everybody went multi section flooring for the ease of putting the floors in the car. I did the same thing with my excursion 5 but I'm thinking of doing a 1 piece floor for my mariner. I can mount it on the roof with some tie downs and non slip pad for transport. I'm thinking of doing 1/2 inch ply treated and carpeted. I don't plan on using the oem floor with this setup and will also put a motor mount on it like desode (OP)did. I'm about 200 lbs 6 foot. I don't plan on putting a chair on it since I like to be able to lay out on the floor while I troll. Is 1/2 inch ply strong enough to be able to hold me without it cracking or flexing? I put a 1/4 inch ply on my excursion untreated but carpeted and it worked ok but it did crack and flex when I would stand or even move with my fat @$$! Lol I don't plan on using the floor everytime I take the boat out. I would only use it for multi day fishing trip or if I'm going to need downriggers (planning on putting some boards on it to mountthe DR). If it's a day trip or going to a little lake I'll just use the stock floor for ease of transport.

 

[Starkonian]

I suggest you go with the one attached below. Color is more visible in sunlight. Academy.com is a decent supplier, I got my seats there too.

I followed the floor design as posted by Scottish. Two piece, 5/8" plywood and went with pressure treated wood. I use the oem floor underneath with only the center slat installed for support and protection of the main hull floor. Scottish nailed it and I'm happy with the design. I filled in all the plywood cracks with wood filler which stiffened up the boards considerably. Most plywood sheets have cracks throughout. I'm 215 lbs. 1/2" would be too heavy imo. It's easy to install, takes 30 seconds, and transport.

 

[Starkonian]

Here are the boat seats I bought from Academy. Best $8 I ever spent. All day comfort for a big guy like myself.

 

[KingPhoenix]

Thanks stark. Looking at the helix 5 cheapest one is $230 at amazon. So the difference between that and a basic setup for like $100 is that it provides imaging? My biggest thing is I need a unit that shows depth and where the fish is at. Would a $200 unit do that better than the a $100 unit? Don't have the money to splurge on a FF so really don't want something to will break the bank. If $100 unit is gonna give me the ability to find fish and depth I would rather go with that but if the $200 unit find fish alot better and easier to read then I wouldn't mind paying the extra $$.

So reading this thread is seems most everybody went multi section flooring for the ease of putting the floors in the car. I did the same thing with my excursion 5 but I'm thinking of doing a 1 piece floor for my mariner. I can mount it on the roof with some tie downs and non slip pad for transport. I'm thinking of doing 1/2 inch ply treated and carpeted. I don't plan on using the oem floor with this setup and will also put a motor mount on it like desode (OP)did. I'm about 200 lbs 6 foot. I don't plan on putting a chair on it since I like to be able to lay out on the floor while I troll. Is 1/2 inch ply strong enough to be able to hold me without it cracking or flexing? I put a 1/4 inch ply on my excursion untreated but carpeted and it worked ok but it did crack and flex when I would stand or even move with my fat @$$! Lol I don't plan on using the floor everytime I take the boat out. I would only use it for multi day fishing trip or if I'm going to need downriggers (planning on putting some boards on it to mountthe DR). If it's a day trip or going to a little lake I'll just use the stock floor for ease of transport.

hey i used 1/2 ply with marine carpet and its great. The difference from the stock floor is amazing, i would never fish without it now. I find it easier to set up than the stock floor and lighter.
I have a Humminbird piranhaMax 197c I got it on clearance at the begging of the season for $80 CAD. I wasn't planning on getting one but for the $$ it was an awesome find(store had to clear out old models as per agreement with manuf).
Its pretty good for this little boat, shows me depth, temp, GPS shows me speed and shows where i've been as well as storing waypoints. I dont use it to mark fish much because im usually fishing shallow but it helps me find structure, baitfish and confirm depths.
I mounted the transducer to the trolling motor so its no work to set up. I use it in conjunction with navionics on my phone but i dont like to had my phone out any more than i need to on the water..

i also got a small alarm system battery (7amp, 12V) that I got so i can run it without the big battery or if its causing interference. i also plan on using it for ice fishing.

 

[ScottishScript]

I suggest you go with the one attached below. Color is more visible in sunlight. Academy.com is a decent supplier, I got my seats there too.

I followed the floor design as posted by Scottish. Two piece, 5/8" plywood and went with pressure treated wood. I use the oem floor underneath with only the center slat installed for support and protection of the main hull floor. Scottish nailed it and I'm happy with the design. I filled in all the plywood cracks with wood filler which stiffened up the boards considerably. Most plywood sheets have cracks throughout. I'm 215 lbs. 1/2" would be too heavy imo. It's easy to install, takes 30 seconds, and transport.

HI Stark,

How did you resolve the issue of securely placing a separate transducer on a rubber boat? This was the reason I bought the all in one Humminbird unit, clip it to transom and you're away.

However I'm thinking of upgrading to an Elite5x but presently pondering a quick and easy method to deploy it on the waterside. Any thoughts?

 

[Jiggyjay]

Thanks for the tips regarding the floor and FF. I'll be ordering my FF soon.. stark it shows as out of stock at the link you gave me. I'm trying to get the measurements for the floor and read through the first 40 pages of this thread again! Lol. Wish there was a search function on this forum. Don't see it in the mobile version. Again I'll be using a 1 piece floor that will replace the slates. I know a 4x8 will not be long enoughto cover the whole floor since the M4 floor is about 100 inches. I measured one of the slates, longest ones of course and got 34 inches. Figured I'll go 32 inches since I'll be adding carpet to the ply. 33 inches wide for a floor should be good enough to have the floor under the side tubes to keep it anchored right? Also do you guys think with the way the M4 ends kind of angle up that a 1 piece floor will give it trouble since it'll make the ends go flat?

 

[KingPhoenix]

HI Stark,

How did you resolve the issue of securely placing a separate transducer on a rubber boat? This was the reason I bought the all in one Humminbird unit, clip it to transom and you're away.

However I'm thinking of upgrading to an Elite5x but presently pondering a quick and easy method to deploy it on the waterside. Any thoughts?

hey scottish, I mounted the transducer to the trolling motor, got a kit from amazon for $15. Nice to be able to move the screen to wherever i want.

 

[Starkonian]

Hi Scottish- I prefer the trolling motor mount for ease of use, less clutter etc.

http://www.colgardsports.com/product...iations=546276. You can also go with a clamp on extension pole and clamp it to an over hanging board attached to the top motor mount poles

You can also use a bracket clamp setup attached to a board clamped onto the motor mount top support bars:



Jiggy- Look 10 - 15 pages back for the Scottish board trim and setup. I had to trim a little more off the sides...you have to fit it so the boards are under the side tubes but not jammed into the floor.side tube seams. One sheet of ply wood leaves 4" or so uncovered front and rear on the floor. Some have cut and installed a piece to cover these areas up. I left the open because it doesn't really matter and allows the boat to flex a little with less stress when impacting waves.

 

[Starkonian]

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