Intex Mariner 4 modifications and Tips

[Starkonian]

I'm using milk crates with folding stadium seats. I have the larger rectangle one in the rear where I sit and my 8 yr old is in the front on the standard square crate. They are working well so far. Problem is, I have the battery, large tackle box and a smaller tackle bag, mid sized cooler, back pack for clothes/air pump/miscl and a fold able net in the middle of the boat. The boat seems packed. My son likes to switch to the rear to drive and that's a disaster waiting to happen. I'm wondering who other load their boats and stow their gear, particularly those who fish with a partner. I have the milk crates up side down and space is there but too handy. Maybe a narrow plastic storage bin could be used for my tackle. My box has individual small containers which I can remove. Looking for ideas.

 

[KingPhoenix]

I'm using milk crates with folding stadium seats. I have the larger rectangle one in the rear where I sit and my 8 yr old is in the front on the standard square crate. They are working well so far. Problem is, I have the battery, large tackle box and a smaller tackle bag, mid sized cooler, back pack for clothes/air pump/miscl and a fold able net in the middle of the boat. The boat seems packed. My son likes to switch to the rear to drive and that's a disaster waiting to happen. I'm wondering who other load their boats and stow their gear, particularly those who fish with a partner. I have the milk crates up side down and space is there but too handy. Maybe a narrow plastic storage bin could be used for my tackle. My box has individual small containers which I can remove. Looking for ideas.

Hey i havent finished my boat yet but i got 13" seat pedestals from amazon for $12 each, might free up a little space for you. My plan is to build a box in the center of the boat for storage that can be used as a seat for a 3rd person or as a table for when tying rigs (dont want to drop a hook) and I can mount rod holder on it. I figure it will be packed pretty tight but hopefully wont be too bad. Scottish had that board mounted to the front that looked like it would be great for storage but it will be in the way unless you are only trolling.

 

[Starkonian]

Hey King-

After much thought, I bought two clear storage bins. Both will allow walking aisle room when pushed to the sides. Both my tackle boxes hold my lures etc. in Plano stowaway compartment boxes. I'm going to pull all those out and put them in the smaller storage bin leaving the tackle boxes at home. I'll put extra clothing, food/drink, camera, air pump and broken down oars in the larger bin. I'll place the deep cycle battery in the middle of the boat along the side with the bins for and aft of that along the side. This should keep an aisle open from front to rear along the right side. I'm stowing the oars because after 4 trips I haven't used them yet.. My son and I bring 4 rods so when motoring we'll store 2 in the rod holders and two in the oar locks sliding the rod tips through through the pivoting oar lock and the rod handle through oar holder thing-a-ma-bob. The two rods we're not using will stay in the oar locks. I don't want any rods sticking up in the air when not in use. Up til now we've just been laying them down wherever which is a mess and dangerous with the hooks. With space at such a premium organization is key. I plan to head out again on Saturday and anxious to try the new plan.
I also thought about the fore and aft boards but loaded with stuff I'm afraid it'll get in the way of casting. I think Scottish only trolls. Also, we experienced our first large wake last weekend and I'm glad the bow wasn't weighted down with gear or we may have taken in some water.

 

[KingPhoenix]

No Title

Hey King-

After much thought, I bought two clear storage bins. Both will allow walking aisle room when pushed to the sides. Both my tackle boxes hold my lures etc. in Plano stowaway compartment boxes. I'm going to pull all those out and put them in the smaller storage bin leaving the tackle boxes at home. I'll put extra clothing, food/drink, camera, air pump and broken down oars in the larger bin. I'll place the deep cycle battery in the middle of the boat along the side with the bins for and aft of that along the side. This should keep an aisle open from front to rear along the right side. I'm stowing the oars because after 4 trips I haven't used them yet.. My son and I bring 4 rods so when motoring we'll store 2 in the rod holders and two in the oar locks sliding the rod tips through through the pivoting oar lock and the rod handle through oar holder thing-a-ma-bob. The two rods we're not using will stay in the oar locks. I don't want any rods sticking up in the air when not in use. Up til now we've just been laying them down wherever which is a mess and dangerous with the hooks. With space at such a premium organization is key. I plan to head out again on Saturday and anxious to try the new plan.
I also thought about the fore and aft boards but loaded with stuff I'm afraid it'll get in the way of casting. I think Scottish only trolls. Also, we experienced our first large wake last weekend and I'm glad the bow wasn't weighted down with gear or we may have taken in some water.

Good ideas I will keep them in mind for my build. But i dont think leaving the oars on shore is good plan if your motor malfunctions, break a prop, battery malfunctions you will be stranded, even worse if you have your kid with you. I know my wife would kill me if that happened to me and i had my son with me.
For rods I was going to do something like this but add straps that will wrap around the reel to give extra securty to keep the rods from falling out, could easity attach it to the side of a storage bin, but a piece of plywood inside as a backer and screw it on.

 

[Starkonian]

No Title

Fyi, I'm not leaving the oars on shore. I'm breaking them down into pieces and storing them in one of the storage boxes. I did an emergency assembly drill of an oar last night and found I can put it together in less than 30 seconds.
I investigated the rod holder issue and discovered this. You pick up some PCV pipes at the hardware store and mount them inside or outside a 5 gallon bucket. I suppose you could mount them to a storage bin as well. I decided against it though. My 8 year old winds up for casts with reckless abandon and I can see constant collisions with vertical rods in the middle of the boat.

 

[TonyMIowa]

No Title

Hi All,

As promised, here are my pictures.
Several tips:
The width of the floor is 31 inch and I could go less than that by inch or so. There is not need to make it as wide as possible.
I placed battery below the chair and it is much better than placing on very front
I added two cleats to attache rope with anchors (mentioning it because don't remember anyone was showing these)

I have tested it on the water and can tell that boat is heavier than I expected. With all the attachments, seats and boards there is no way I can move it from the water by myself. Two guys were able to pull it up and move closer to parking lot where it was disassembled.
it was very windy when I was testing the boat and one 8lb anchor wasn't able to keep boat on the spot at all. I had to keep trolling motor on all the time. I just got second anchor and hope it will help
when I was going against the wind, I was using full 50 lbs throttle and it was doing ok until I got to shallow part of the lake. there was not enough depth for motor (2-3 ft) to grab the water so I had to use oars. you definitely want to have oars

 

[Starkonian]

Tony-

I like the seats. Fyi, the make a quick release plate for the pedestals. Makes it easy to remove the seats.
I suggest you inflate the boat, not the keel, and install the floor. THEN put it in the water and load everything else. Reverse procedure for tear down. Use your battery for inflation power. You're inviting seam failure otherwise. Also, placing the battery in the middle of the boat distributes weight better and avoids stress holes/failure.

 

[Starkonian]

Where is everyone?

Two trips ago, I looked down and noticed water in the boat. About an inch back by my feet, no one in front so it was near the very rear. I emptied it out and hour later abut the same amount. I discovered late three pin prick holes together along the side seam where the floor angles towards the rear. I put a half assed patch on that peeled right off the next day. Patching on a seem is iffy anyways. Researched and found a review about Marine Goop on PCV boats. I thoroughly cleaned the area with rubbing alcohol, then lightly sanded the area with fine grit sandpaper and then cleaned it with alcohol again. I applied the Marine Goop with a Popsicle stick. It self levels so made sure the surface was flush with the ground when drying. It dried to the touch in an hour. Next day it dried completely clear. I can hardly see it. It's flexible but stuck on there like it came from the factory. I can't even pick an edge up with my finger nail. Used the boat yesterday. It was dry as a bone. Time will tell but no reason so far to worry. This will be my go to patch sealer for pin prick holes form now on.

 

[KingPhoenix]

Three of my Boston valves are leaking. I took the cap of them and filled them with water and they are bubbling. I didn't put the caps back on to see if they still leak air but I assume they are. Is this normal? Are there better high end Boston valves available? I bought it last September and used it 3-4 times. I've sent an email to Intex but since it's beyond the 30 days I suspect they won't assist. I guess I can just give a few pumps with the hand pump every 2-3 hours but it's a little irritating the valves on this fairly expensive boat don't hold air as well as my cheap air mattress. Thanks.

Hey did you ever figure out a fix for this? Seems my valves are also leaking.

 

[Starkonian]

Hey did you ever figure out a fix for this? Seems my valves are also leaking.

I cleaned them real well and it doesn't seem t be in issue. Next time I go, after the boat is in inflated, I'll fill the valve pocket up with water and see if there are any bubbles. Air chamber boats can be deceiving since they expand and contract throughout the day depending on temperature.

Went out yesterday. The Marine Goop patch is holding flawlessly. There's no way it's coming off.

Was out yesterday for 6 hours in 12-18 knot winds. I did a 3/4 mile reach straight into the wind. The Minkota 30 and 27 series deep cycle had no problems. I like to able to see the battery charge on the meter I mounted on th battery box.

I'm going to pick up for my on water repair box some Tear-Aid, type B. Also some alcohol prep pads. This stuff has a great reputation. If I stuck a fish hook into the boat down the lake, I'd have a hell of a problem getting back. With Tear-Aid, just clean the surface and apply. Back on the water in15 minutes.

 

[rekd0514]

Cool thread. I just thought I would let you guys know this is on sale for $250 right now on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CMBTCHW/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

 

[Starkonian]

Cool thread. I just thought I would let you guys know this is on sale for $250 right now on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CMBTCHW/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

That's a hell of a deal. I'll go one better. On Amazon, sign for the free Prime membership. You can get free shipping and they ship it to you on two days. Cancel the membership during the trial period at no cost. Incredible deal. That's what I did. While you're at it, order your trolling motor, transom plate, electric air pump etc. on the prime membership for two day delivery. Snooze, you lose, big time.

 

[Mr.Victor]

Anybody hear of or have any problems with inter-chamber leaking? This has been happening this season to my boat. When I pump up chamber 1 it leaks into chamber 2 which leaks into chamber 3 which leaks into chamber 4. The only area that doesn't leak is between chamber 4 and 1 now. I can basically pump the whole boat up from one chamber now. This worries me because now if I get any kind of bad puncture while out on the water the whole boat will deflate. I have no idea how this happened and how I could fix it.

 

[Starkonian]

This is above my pay grade but, I do know when I deflate my boat I release the chambers from # 1 on through #4. By the time I get to #4 it looks partly deflated. That's why it inflates starting from #1. The chambers are tied in with each other. Maybe yours aren't leaking.
I did read over inflating can cause internal tears.
My Coleman 12 volt pump seems to inflate my boat to full or just short there of. I adjust throughout the day. I try to be slightly under inflated vs. over.

 

[Simon916]

Hey guys, I was wondering... does the Manufacturer's Certificate of Origin come included in the box?

I'm having a hell of a time getting my Sevylor Fish Hunter 280 registered here in California. DMV wants the Certificate signed by the retailer, which is proving difficult. For the unware, any motorized boat must be registered here in CA.

Anybody here have to go through the same process?

I'm looking to upgrade to the M4 after hearing about Sevylor ditching the Boston valves and other quality control complaints. This thread has me convinced.

 

[Starkonian]

I'm in California and registered my M-4 last fall. I purchased it as I said above on Amazon. Registered in the Pleasanton DMV office. Intex has a link on the site for the certificate of origin. You input the hull ID # located on the box and also stamped on the boat. I printed out the Cert. of Origin from the website. Took that with the bill of sale I printed from the Amazon site to the DMV. I also printed out the registration requirements for boats from the California boating website, forget the name. I didn't need them tho was prepared to show the DMV. All you need are these two docs, you do not need the Cert of Origin signed by Intex. DMV personnel often don't know what they're doing. The employee I was dealing with had to ask someone else. She initially thought it didn't even need to be registered. They ok'd it no problem and after getting raked with the mussel fee as well got my registration.

 

[Starkonian]

Simon: here's the registration info. As you can see, you were told a bunch of bull crap:
[h=2]What Vessels Must be Registered?[/h] Generally, every sail-powered vessel over eight feet in length and every motor-driven vessel (regardless of length) that is not documented by the U.S. Coast Guard which is used or on the waters of this state are subject to registration by the Department of Motor Vehicles (DMV). The vessel must be located in California.


[h=2]How Do I Register My Vessel?[/h] The documents required to register and title a new vessel or a vessel being registered for the first time are:

• Application for Vessel Certificate of Number (BOAT 101).
• Proof of ownership, such as the out-of-state title in the applicant's name or properly endorsed for transfer and signed by the applicant. A bill of sale is acceptable in lieu of the seller's signature on the title,
  OR
• The original or certified copy of a conditional sales contract or security interest showing the purchaser's name and any lienholder and marked "paid" and countersigned,
  OR
• A bond for the vessel value if proof of ownership cannot be provided and the vessel's value is $2,000 or more.

Vessel Fees (CVC ??9851, 9852.7, 9853, 9853.5, 9855, 9860?9863, CH&NC ?675)
	Vessel/Quagga	Quagga Exempt
Original (except nonresident)*
?Sold in even year	$37	$29
?Sold in odd year	$65	$49
Penalty
?Sold in even year	$10	$10
?Sold in odd year	$25	$25

https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/dmv/detail/boatsinfo/boatreg

 

[Simon916]

Thanks Stark, it's been such a hassle. I'll take your advice and hope for the best. When you say bill of sale, you do mean the receipt, correct?


It's strange, I had the Certificate of Origin (signed by sevylor) the sales receipt and the manual, which gave instructions on how to register. The DMV wanted someone from the tackle shop to sign the endorsement line (which says no liens or encumbrances) and have it notorized! WTF.


After some digging I found this, which reads it doesn't need to be notorized.


https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/dmv/?1...hdbk/ch7/ch7_2

I've sinced moved 3 hours from the city in which the boat was purchased and the tackle shop hasn't replied to my emails lol. Obviously not wanting to get involved in this sh*t show.

 

[Starkonian]

Check the registration application. Section 6. You just need to complete part B. Note section 6 says complete part A OR part B. Yes, the bill of sale is the receipt. I'd make sure it has the seller name on it or print something with their logo and perhaps the M-4 they sell from their website, assuming they have one. In section 4, under lien holder, just write none. I's definitely print our the instructions from the CA website and and direct them to it if still have a problem. Demand to speak with a supervisor if the continue d*ck you around.

 

[Simon916]

Great advice, thank you kindly. Section B should do it. I'll probably order from Amazon and print the invoice, it has the logo and Amazon LLC print, my name & address and price paid. Fingers crossed!