Inboard outboard air cooled engine

MikDee

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Wench, is a pirates girlfriend. ;)
 

Lone Duck

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Wench, is a pirates girlfriend. ;)

Aaarrr! Matey! I sure hope shaker runs smooth with the prop under load and the coupler stands up. This waiting is Hard on what little brain I have left.
 

drewmitch44

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Yea its hard. Any idea when the trial run is going to be? I bet it runs smooth and pretty quick. I think it was a verry cool build! Thanks a lot for sharing pics through the process! now the wait to see the pics of it in the water. Good Luck! If it was me, i would be dying to get that thing into the water!
 

MikDee

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Aaarrr! Matey! I sure hope shaker runs smooth with the prop under load and the coupler stands up. This waiting is Hard on what little brain I have left.

LOL,,, Ditto LD! Wondering the same thing ;) But we don't want to rush him, "haste makes waste".
 

maxum247

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Took the "SHAKER" out for a test run yesterday, didn't have anyone along to take pictures except my 4 year old, he's not too handy with a camera yet, hope to take some pictures the next trip. I plan to go again this weekend if the weather is fit. These are my findings!

The coupling held up well and the boat shook little. Overall I am pleased, but there are a few problems that need to be delt with. The worst being with my 220 some pounds in the boat it is stern heavy. It's forward or reverse, sometimes I can find neutral but it ain't easy! Rudder needs to sit deeper in the water. If I sit on the middle seat it will almost plane out, sounds like the engine isn't turning up enough rpm. I feel I will be able to correct most of the problems but I think the boat isn't quite heavy enough to hold the bow down for the weight of the motor in the stern. Going to have to figure out how to balance things out. So if I would have had pictures right now all you would have seen was the stern dragging and me stretching my neck to see over the bow! I think with the setup I have it will make a nice cruising boat but I don't beleive it will ever be fast and that's okay! I still like it.:)

If I ever built another one I would use a heavier boat, something that could handle the weight better!
 

MikDee

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Hey maxum, Good info, sounds like you need some kind of neutral detent. With my fat behind in there it would be worse yet :rolleyes: Anyway, it appears you need to do what you got to do to balance the load, so that you can get the bow down, get over the hump, & get on plane. Maybe you need some trim tabs? although, the rear section of the boat bottom behind the prop, should act like trim tabs?:confused: Do you think your motor should wind out more? I mean do you think the lower unit reduction gearing is enough? Or, is it just the fact the motors not producing it's rated HP? Do you know what the specs on the prop are? Maybe the motors reaching it's Max rpm? and you need one with more pitch (more bite?) to put the motors torque to work? I would think it should at least plane out? Also, lastly, the rudder blade looked a bit small to me, but I don't know what size it needs to be? Good Luck Man!
 

maxum247

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Hey maxum, Good info, sounds like you need some kind of neutral detent. With my fat behind in there it would be worse yet :rolleyes: Anyway, it appears you need to do what you got to do to balance the load, so that you can get the bow down, get over the hump, & get on plane. Maybe you need some trim tabs? although, the rear section of the boat bottom behind the prop, should act like trim tabs?:confused: Do you think your motor should wind out more? I mean do you think the lower unit reduction gearing is enough? Or, is it just the fact the motors not producing it's rated HP? Do you know what the specs on the prop are? Maybe the motors reaching it's Max rpm? and you need one with more pitch (more bite?) to put the motors torque to work? I would think it should at least plane out? Also, lastly, the rudder blade looked a bit small to me, but I don't know what size it needs to be? Good Luck Man!

I think the motor could turn up a little more with some tweaking, sounds a little slow to me, but that could be from swinging too much prop.!
Prop is more than likely the wrong pitch, too big, probably not allowing the engine to turn up. All I can make out for the prop size is 1/4 x 8 1/2 it doesn't look like it was stamped on there the rest of the number easy to read as new!

The rudder is about average size I have seen them about that size on a little bigger speed boats I think. I beleive it's just not down in the water deep enough the prop wash is blowing by the rudder.

It's mostly simple stuff to correct not a big deal really!:)

The biggest problem is, the boat is too small and light, little heavier boat and all would be good for the most part.

With someone up front weight won't be a problem, when I'm by myself I'll put the trolling motor battery up there and a sand bag or something to help level things out, I'm sure I'll get it worked out after while!:)
 

MikDee

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

I think the motor could turn up a little more with some tweaking, sounds a little slow to me, but that could be from swinging too much prop.!

Just take your idle mixture screw out some, (richen it) maybe 1/2 turn past highest idle speed, when warmed up, that should help

Prop is more than likely the wrong pitch, too big, probably not allowing the engine to turn up. All I can make out for the prop size is 1/4 x 8 1/2 it doesn't look like it was stamped on there the rest of the number easy to read as new

I'd say the 1st number is Diam. the 2nd is pitch, an 8.5" pitch maybe? a 10" pitch would be about right I think? Diam. will automatically be proportional, (but you need to make sure it's not too big as to hit the Cav plate)

The rudder is about average size I have seen them about that size on a little bigger speed boats I think. I beleive it's just not down in the water deep enough the prop wash is blowing by the rudder.

Alrighty then, that sounds logical.

It's mostly simple stuff to correct not a big deal really!:)

The biggest problem is, the boat is too small and light, little heavier boat and all would be good for the most part.

With someone up front weight won't be a problem, when I'm by myself I'll put the trolling motor battery up there and a sand bag or something to help level things out, I'm sure I'll get it worked out after while!:)
 

maxum247

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Took the boat out today. The coupling failed the first five minutes out. Kept bumping bottom on the way out from the dock, stopped the prop one too many times and twisted the wire reinforced rubber coupling into.:( Will probably replace with a solid metal or universal coupling of some kind. I'll check back in at a later date and let you know how things turn out! Thanks for all the help.:)

maxum247
 

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MikDee

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

OhNo! :eek: I guess it's time for this:
"http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_13290_13290"
Or the heavier duty one!

But you gotta stop dredging for clams,,, :D
 

Lone Duck

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Took the boat out today. The coupling failed the first five minutes out. Kept bumping bottom on the way out from the dock, stopped the prop one too many times and twisted the wire reinforced rubber coupling into.:( Will probably replace with a solid metal or universal coupling of some kind. I'll check back in at a later date and let you know how things turn out! Thanks for all the help.:)

maxum247
Damn! I was afraid of that. Solid coupling might take crankshaft out. How about a slip clutch? Or hang the L U off the transom and use a belt and 2 pulleys. Hinge L U same as your tiller and attach a tiller handle to it.
 

maxum247

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Damn! I was afraid of that. Solid coupling might take crankshaft out. How about a slip clutch? Or hang the L U off the transom and use a belt and 2 pulleys. Hinge L U same as your tiller and attach a tiller handle to it.

Think I'm going to try one of the two peice metal couplings with the rubber bushing in the middle soon as I can get the funds together. Going to have to redo the exhausht, sits a little to close to the water.:)
 

Lone Duck

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Think I'm going to try one of the two peice metal couplings with the rubber bushing in the middle soon as I can get the funds together. Going to have to redo the exhausht, sits a little to close to the water.:)
Good luck! your close now. Rome was'nt built in a day. Way back when we first started this , didn't I mention something about years? :D
 

maxum247

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Good luck! your close now. Rome was'nt built in a day. Way back when we first started this , didn't I mention something about years? :D

I think my response was, Years!:eek: But your right it's close.
 

launboy

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Well, it took a few hours, but I finally finished reading the whole thread. It's been very interesting reading as you built this thing. I think it's pretty cool! Sorry I can't offer much help, especially now that it's already built.

I agree with Lone Duck about the stel coupling. If you hit something with the prop, ti will transwer most of, or all of the force to the crankshaft. You might break the flywheel key or worse! The way you have it now, the rubber is kind of like a safety that absorbs the shock.

Good Luck,
Adam
 

maxum247

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

The coupling that I'm looking into ia a lovejoy or half coupling I beleive. They can be purchased with verious kinds of spacers a spider something or another, kind of looks like an impeller for an outboard motor. The spider I'm looking at is made of Hytrel I beleive. It's rated for 3600 rpm. It can be prchased with a solid center for none close shaft fits or with a hollow center for shafts that are close together at the ends like mine. I figure around $50 or so dollars with the two different sizes. I'll need one 1 inch coupling half and I think one 9/16 coupling half for each shaft and one spider. And they come in different types like standard and heavy duty and different shaft sizes. Hopefully that will keep the flywheel key from breaking. Also there's the shear pin and rubber hub in the prop for added protection. There's nothing left to do but break out the trolling motor if this fails. Maybe make a paddle boat out of it!:)
 

Lone Duck

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

The coupling that I'm looking into ia a lovejoy or half coupling I beleive. They can be purchased with verious kinds of spacers a spider something or another, kind of looks like an impeller for an outboard motor. The spider I'm looking at is made of Kytrel I beleive. It's rated for 3600 rpm. It can be prchased with a solid center for none close shaft fits or with a hollow center for shafts that are close together at the ends like mine. I figure around $50 or so dollars with the two different sizes. I'll need one 1 inch coupling half and I think one 9/16 coupling half for each shaft and one spider. And they come in different types like standard and heavy duty and different shaft sizes. Hopefully that will keep the flywheel key from breaking. Also there's the shear pin and rubber hub in the prop for added protection. There's nothing left to do but break out the trolling motor if this fails. Maybe make a paddle boat out of it!:)
Yep! I have always liked the lovejoy. I have used them a time or two.
 

MikDee

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Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Hey maxum, That sounds like the right thing to do, besides we figured that after the maiden voyage, and shakedown cruise, you might have to do this to work all the bugs out, and dial it all in.
 
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