I need help, boat runs rough and stalls. I pumped new gas and lots more.. I need help

[alldodge]

From what you were saying prior it sound like there was no degree tab but you do have one.

The degrees go opposite of what I said because the pulley is passing a stationary tab. If you were to use the pulley, then it would be what I said

Having a advance timing light then just dial in what your looking for. Keep in mind the 27* depends on what initial timing is and can very +/- a few degrees

The 1997 3.0LX timing is listed in manual 13 for EST distributor is 1* BTDC using the timing shunt

 

[Bayliner3.0]

Oh man…. So I started the boat and for the first time ever a huge cloud of smoke came out for about 20 secs.
I warmed the engine. Put the timing light on the plug wire closest to the front (pulleys and belts side) of the engine #1? Then connected the jumper wire to the two white wires on the 3 wire plug on module. Then when I tried to connect the 2 shift interrupt switch wires together the engine tried to die.
Then I heard an alarm sound which I have never heard before.. This process shouldn’t cause the alarm to sound right?

What am I missing?

 

[alldodge]

Did you have water flowing to the muffs on the outdrive?

 

[Bayliner3.0]

Did you have water flowing to the muffs on the outdrive?

Yes, water on like I normally do it. Went back out and started it again. So starts right up, eventually idle surges up to maybe 1500rpm see some smoke and idles back down. Shut off engine and heard the alarm for a few seconds.
I check the dipstick and it is clean and same level, so I guess no water is getting in there..
But smoke or no smoke, why when I connect the shift interupt switch does it try to die? I mean I thought that was its job to cut the engine for a second, so I do not understand why would you connect the two wires together? Would that not make the engine want to die?

 

[Bayliner3.0]

Also the oil pressure gauge reads as it normally does, just below 40psi. And engine temp is normal about 130 at idle it doesn’t really heat up at idle.

 

[alldodge]

Connecting the interrupter together should not have tried to die, but may not be timed correctly yet, or there may be a module issue.

Get it timed correctly then we can start fresh

As for the black smoke that would indicate to much fuel

 

[Bayliner3.0]

Connecting the interrupter together should not have tried to die, but may not be timed correctly yet, or there may be a module issue.

Get it timed correctly then we can start fresh

As for the black smoke that would indicate to much fuel

How can I time it correctly if I need to connect the shift interrupt wires first? Smoke looked more blue, so oil I guess.
Without the shift interrupt switch wires connected the timing read I would guess 16 degrees before TDC. It was above the 12 degree mark, but again the module wires were connected but the shift interrupt wires were NOT connected.

Can I time it without the shift interrupt wires connected? I have a replacement module I can install. I replaced the cap and rotor, but I never moved the distributer and prior the boat ran to 4500rpm 41mph on 21p prop.

Could it be that the new cap and rotor caused module to give up?

 

[alldodge]

Can I time it without the shift interrupt wires connected?

no, not correctly that is

Could it be that the new cap and rotor caused module to give up?

no

It's either carb is not adjusted correctly (meaning mixer or idle speed) or timing is way off.

There is nothing wrong with increasing rpm to keep motor running and adjusting other things to get everything correct. Remember, when everything is connected as specified in timing procedure, the the timing is locked into base timing mode

 

[Bayliner3.0]

Ok so I replaced the module and was able to go through the timing process. The smoke stopped, but still an issue.
Timing was about 3/4 btdc not perfect. Removed jumper wire and reconnected interrupter and timing adjusted to 11.5 btdc. Then I could hear a knock sound and the timing would change. And then move to about 6 or more after tdc. Restarted motor and more or less same thing happened.

New cap, rotor, wires, module, plugs. Could the distributer be sticking or something? I have not researched distributers yet or ever had an engine with one. Any thoughts? Maybe coil?

 

[Bayliner3.0]

I know this would be rare, but could I have installed a Module that has a different issue than the one I replaced, but also bad?

 

[alldodge]

The motor ran before so replacing the module did nothing except maybe induce another problem, doubtful but can happen. Throwing parts at an issue is never a good idea

It's not the coil, distributor or module.

 

[Dillusion808]

Jumping in late.

You sure you didn't forget to tighten down the bolt for the distributor? Timing shouldn't really change just sitting there.

 

[Bayliner3.0]

Jumping in late.

You sure you didn't forget to tighten down the bolt for the distributor? Timing shouldn't really change just sitting there.

I did not adjust distributer and it seemed solid it doesn’t move. I just swapped module with a $13 amazon module I had in my spare parts.

The motor ran before so replacing the module did nothing except maybe induce another problem, doubtful but can happen. Throwing parts at an issue is never a good idea

It's not the coil, distributor or module.

You mentioned timing might be way off (ran good before and I didn’t adjust it): With the new module, I confirmed the timing was just about perfect. Remember the old module would not enter into base timing, new one did. Seems like old module had an issue.

You mentioned the carb might need adjusted: Before the module change, I could not adjust it any better while on the trailer. When I close the mixture screw it stumbles, when I open it more it stumbles. I seem to be in the sweet spot in between stumbles. About 950rpm on trailer.
Timing is almost perfect, but after a few minutes jumps to 6 degrees above tdc and knocks. It did not do that with the original module, just would not go into base timing mode. Either way still idles good. It doesn’t try to die while knocking.

I don’t want to sound like I am arguing with you, I feel like I owe you a 6 pack at least! Just explaining what’s happening.
I had a spare module so replacing 27 year old ignition parts isn’t really a bad thing and pretty easy to do.

I also replaced the circuit breaker with all this, so maybe it is not letting enough amps through? I will swap it back to just be sure.

If it still does the timing jump I will swap the module again. The manual says if timing does not adjust correctly module needs replaced.

I am not saying it is the distributor coil, but you should see it. It looks like it is covered in some kind of orange salt all over it. If the coil is failing it could mess with the module in theory. All other distributer parts have been changed. Couldn’t hurt to change it. These are maintenance parts after all.

Seemed to confirm timing is set correctly, and I can not really improve the idle or carb.
Only other carb related thing is to check for vacuum leaks, but those shouldn’t be intermittent. Vacuum should only make the idle fluctuate not cause a jump in timing and knocking right?

I am going to replace the distributor coil and module they are 27 years old. If it is not the problem, well at least now all my ignition is new except the main coil.

Thanks and sorry this one wasn’t easy for us. Had a lot of issues. Hopefully Wednesday I will have this figured out and in the water for fine tuning.

 

[Scott06]

I did not adjust distributer and it seemed solid it doesn’t move. I just swapped module with a $13 amazon module I had in my spare parts.


You mentioned timing might be way off (ran good before and I didn’t adjust it): With the new module, I confirmed the timing was just about perfect. Remember the old module would not enter into base timing, new one did. Seems like old module had an issue.

You mentioned the carb might need adjusted: Before the module change, I could not adjust it any better while on the trailer. When I close the mixture screw it stumbles, when I open it more it stumbles. I seem to be in the sweet spot in between stumbles. About 950rpm on trailer.
Timing is almost perfect, but after a few minutes jumps to 6 degrees above tdc and knocks. It did not do that with the original module, just would not go into base timing mode. Either way still idles good. It doesn’t try to die while knocking.

I don’t want to sound like I am arguing with you, I feel like I owe you a 6 pack at least! Just explaining what’s happening.
I had a spare module so replacing 27 year old ignition parts isn’t really a bad thing and pretty easy to do.

I also replaced the circuit breaker with all this, so maybe it is not letting enough amps through? I will swap it back to just be sure.

If it still does the timing jump I will swap the module again. The manual says if timing does not adjust correctly module needs replaced.

I am not saying it is the distributor coil, but you should see it. It looks like it is covered in some kind of orange salt all over it. If the coil is failing it could mess with the module in theory. All other distributer parts have been changed. Couldn’t hurt to change it. These are maintenance parts after all.

Seemed to confirm timing is set correctly, and I can not really improve the idle or carb.
Only other carb related thing is to check for vacuum leaks, but those shouldn’t be intermittent. Vacuum should only make the idle fluctuate not cause a jump in timing and knocking right?

I am going to replace the distributor coil and module they are 27 years old. If it is not the problem, well at least now all my ignition is new except the main coil.

Thanks and sorry this one wasn’t easy for us. Had a lot of issues. Hopefully Wednesday I will have this figured out and in the water for fine tuning.

Sometimes people have trouble getting them into base, which is why I suggested just setting the total advance. If total is ok let the base fall where it may.
you mention replacing parts because they are 27 years old. No sense replacing oem quality parts with a $13 part of Amazon. There is too much junk out there these days. Ohm test the coil before you decide to replace it, otherwise the boat will only go faster because your wallet is lighter …

 

[Bayliner3.0]

Sometimes people have trouble getting them into base, which is why I suggested just setting the total advance. If total is ok let the base fall where it may.
you mention replacing parts because they are 27 years old. No sense replacing oem quality parts with a $13 part of Amazon. There is too much junk out there these days. Ohm test the coil before you decide to replace it, otherwise the boat will only go faster because your wallet is lighter …

Well other parts were CDI ignition parts. I hear a lot of manufacturers use them so thought it was a good brand. The module was just to have in my parts bag incase I got stuck on the water. Cheap part in my bag better than no part in a pinch. You should have seen the cap it looked like crystals were growing on the contacts. Wires were original too so I mean I don’t feel like that was a stupid call to do cap rotor plugs and wires with CDI and AC DELCO
I guess I missed you saying just set the timing to 27 at 2400.
But either way smoke went away and vacuum at idle smoothed out with new module. Seems like the module might have been my original problem I was having at the start of this article.
Maybe the wires are not tight at the pins anymore. I checked they were in place, but maybe not tight.

Now I would be swapping back the old module to check timing when it was smoking and stinking like fuel and vacuum erratic.

Not sure what to think. Something got worse from one day to the next without changing anything. Then new module fixed the smoking stink and vacuum. But it then moved 6degree atdc after a few minutes..

 

[Bayliner3.0]

Sometimes people have trouble getting them into base, which is why I suggested just setting the total advance. If total is ok let the base fall where it may.
you mention replacing parts because they are 27 years old. No sense replacing oem quality parts with a $13 part of Amazon. There is too much junk out there these days. Ohm test the coil before you decide to replace it, otherwise the boat will only go faster because your wallet is lighter …

Ok just read where you said I could do it without the jumper in. I did and the timing was showing I would guess somewhere around 16 before tdc at idle it was off the scale. But also jumping around there but on average 16 ish. New module and timing was steady until it jumped after a few min.
Do you know the distributer coil spec?

 

[Bayliner3.0]

Ok pickup coil 500-1500ohms just read it. Guess I have all the suggestions from you guys.
Seems like the consensus is it is the carb.
I will leave a post when I wrap up just to confirm the end result.

Thanks everyone for the help. I know it is not easy to diagnose what’s going on when you are not here with my boat.

 

[nola mike]

I know this would be rare, but could I have installed a Module that has a different issue than the one I replaced, but also bad?

On a $13 Amazon unit? Absolutely

 

[nola mike]

New cap, rotor, wires, module, plugs. Could the distributer be sticking or something? I have not researched distributers yet or ever had an engine with one. Any thoughts? Maybe coil?

No, timing is electronic. If you're getting spark it isn't the coil

I did not adjust distributer and it seemed solid it doesn’t move. I just swapped module with a $13 amazon module I had in my spare parts.



I had a spare module so replacing 27 year old ignition parts isn’t really a bad thing and pretty easy to do.

I also replaced the circuit breaker with all this, so maybe it is not letting enough amps through? I will swap it back to just be sure.

These are maintenance parts after all.


I am going to replace the distributor coil and module they are 27 years old. If it is not the problem, well at least now all my ignition is new except the main coil.
.

$13 Amazon part is suspect. These are not maintenance parts (module at least). Mine (both pickup and module) are 36 years old. It isn't the breaker. When you throw parts at the problem you don't know what else you may be screwing up. Have you quadruple checked your firing order?

 

[Bayliner3.0]

No, timing is electronic. If you're getting spark it isn't the coil
$13 Amazon part is suspect. These are not maintenance parts (module at least). Mine (both pickup and module) are 36 years old. It isn't the breaker. When you throw parts at the problem you don't know what else you may be screwing up. Have you quadruple checked your firing order?

I quadruple checked firing order, it is correct. But tested the coils here are results.

Pickup Coil inside distributer: Spec= 500-1500 ohms
mine tested = 880

Main Coil mounted on engine:
Spec from B to body = open
mine tested = open

Spec from B to D = approximately 0.4 ohms
mine tested = 1.1 ohms

Spec from B to C = approximately 0.4 ohms
mine tested = 1.1 ohms

Sec from B to E = 7800 - 8800 ohms
mine tested 8170 ohms

Manual states replace if not approximately 0.4.

Sounds like main coil is out of spec. It does not give a range, is 1.1 ohms approximately 0.4? It is almost 3x that.

Any thoughts? You thought you got rid of me .

Also does anyone know the GM part# for the Ignition Module just in case? Mercruiser uses it but charges $200. Advanced Auto has a gm: D1943A for $89.. Not sure if it is the correct part#

Also I guess if I need the Main Coil, is there an autoparts store part# for like an AC Delco or GM part#