I need help, boat runs rough and stalls. I pumped new gas and lots more.. I need help

[Bayliner3.0]

How are you determining that?

Thought I mentioned it earlier. Tach signal wire removed from tach, distributor coil plug unplugged. Continuity check with a multi meter from one end to the other. Also checked at the tach test connector.
I did not check it for voltage or ground, I didn’t really care. Needs fixed one way or another.

 

[nola mike]

Thought I mentioned it earlier. Tach signal wire removed from tach, distributor coil plug unplugged. Continuity check with a multi meter from one end to the other. Also checked at the tach test connector.
I did not check it for voltage or ground, I didn’t really care. Needs fixed one way or another.

You did mention it but it didn't sound correct, so wanted to clarify. Testing continuity across a disconnected wire isn't testing for a short. In addition, if your tach is working then the signal wire isn't broken.

 

[Bayliner3.0]

Can you take a pic of the notch on the pulley and the timing gauge lined up?

This is jumping around so much I'm not sure steps are going in order.

 

[Bayliner3.0]

You did mention it but it didn't sound correct, so wanted to clarify. Testing continuity across a disconnected wire isn't testing for a short. In addition, if your tach is working then the signal wire isn't broken.

I did not test for voltage or ground, I did test for continuity and when a bunch of resistance is there something is broken and interrupting the wires path. And I know the signal wire isn’t a circuit. But if the wire is broken or bridging with another source ground or voltage then it could be shorting the ignition parts. Like the ignition coil, module, or something else.
Could be a short somewhere caused by the signal wire (I think I said that right). Maybe a separate issue, but I want it fixed .
The wire is showing more than an insignificant amount of resistance, so somewhere the wire is broken or someone spliced into it for some reason.. The diagram does not show a resistor on the signal wire .

 

[nola mike]

I did not test for voltage or ground, I did test for continuity and when a bunch of resistance is there something is broken and interrupting the wires path. And I know the signal wire isn’t a circuit. But if the wire is broken or bridging with another source ground or voltage then it could be shorting the ignition parts. Like the ignition coil, module, or something else.
Could be a short somewhere caused by the signal wire (I think I said that right). Maybe a separate issue, but I want it fixed .
The wire is showing more than an insignificant amount of resistance, so somewhere the wire is broken or someone spliced into it for some reason.. The diagram does not show a resistor on the signal wire .

Again, I'd question your troubleshooting and conclusions if your tach is working. I think you've given the parts cannon a good workout and are all over the place with the diagnostics. Good luck.

 

[Bayliner3.0]

Again, I'd question your troubleshooting and conclusions if your tach is working. I think you've given the parts cannon a good workout and are all over the place with the diagnostics. Good luck.

I know you all think I am throwing money at this, but at the moment the only part I threw at this is a $13 module that was allready in my parts bag that was given to me….
Cap, rotor, plugs, and wires was just long overdue (1997). Fuel pump was soo over corroded it was needed and at the end of its lifespan anyway. I do not want to get stuck when the old fuel pump was inevitably going to fail. Carb was just to avoid cleaning it, it had a fair bit of corrosion too (inside).
All of this so far was maintenance and necessary.
Yeah post is all over the place, but it all needed tested and ruled out. Matter of fact the manual suggests everything I have done.
But hey if it makes you feel better, sure keep questioning what I am doing instead of suggesting a solution. Tach wire doesn’t mean it is the cause of my symptoms.
You are concluding that I am concluding something I am not. I am ruling things out.

 

[Bayliner3.0]

Going to wrap this up.
I adjusted the carb float as some suggested, no help. Then too lean. Adjusted to rich accelerator pump setting, still lean (bogs on acceleration).
Tach signal wire was touching metal (rubbed through insulation, so I taped it up).
I replaced the original module with an Amazon $13 special that was given to me (timing was fine and went into base), but would warm up and move to about 6atdc…. Replaced it with a CDI module, and it was stuck in base timing right out of the box it would not advance.
REPLACED THE MODULE with a GM latest part# and WAH LAH! Timing is good, goes into base timing, but the carb is lean. Adjusted back to spec and revs like a champ!
So in summary: I had paper towel blocking float needle, grounding tach signal wire, but in the end it was a bad module x3. I spent some time reading about these and they just SUCK. People have had bad ones out of the box from all brands even GM/AC Delco also had good ones of all brands. My luck I got 2 bad ones out of the box and a bunch of other issues that made this confusing.
Loose plug wires and bad cap and rotor can cause these to fail (from what I read). I am guessing that is why my original failed.
Overall the manual trouble shot to the point where it said it was the module and it was.
I have read that these can fail completely, NO START. Fail where they retard timing after warm (my problem twice). Fail will not go into base timing, and the CDI I had failed stuck in base timing would not advance.
I appreciate everyone's time on this and helping me diagnose parts and issues.
Glad I did not take it to a mechanic, this could have been expensive. All in all I spent $130 on a new module.
So despite what some may think, I did not throw parts at this. I did a tune up and found a bad MODULE.
I probably could have cleaned the carb, but the choke was sticking. The shaft pathway was pitted and corroded. The manual stated to replace in this condition. Also it was corroded inside (minimal). Maybe it could have been ok with a sticky choke but it would have made it hard to start.
JOB DONE!

 

[bobyouruncle1]

I have had issues similar to the original post's description.
I found out the reason basically by a fluke.
I could start the engine and it would run for awhile then quit, if I used the choke it would run a little longer but miss like a bucking horse.
Turns out it was a blocked gas tank vent. So blocked the fuel line collapsed, that's how I found out.
The engine ran perfect when I used a 5 gallon gas tank as a source.
Since then I have found partially plugged vents a couple of times but usually before any really big issues.
Don't know if this helps but it's easy to check. For some reason salt or bugs like it in there.