I need help, boat runs rough and stalls. I pumped new gas and lots more.. I need help

[alldodge]

Ok I have the idle at about 800-1000 fluctuates any lower it will die. I look in carb with choke open and engine warm and I can not see fuel I tap throttle and see fuel. I shut off the engine and can not see fuel dripping either.

Your good for now, as airshot mentioned, next step is in the water and in gear. With motor in gear the idle should be 600 to 650

 

[Scott06]

Ok I have the idle at about 800-1000 fluctuates any lower it will die. I look in carb with choke open and engine warm and I can not see fuel I tap throttle and see fuel. I shut off the engine and can not see fuel dripping either.

Have you adjusted the idle mixture to see if it smooths out? Check for vacuum leaks at carb base too. As AD mentioned on the water and in fwd it should idle ok 650 or so

 

[Bayliner3.0]

UPDATE FOUND AT LEAST ONE PROBLEM:

Pulled the horn off the carb and I found a tiny piece of Paper Towel under the float needle. HAHA LOL, please let me laugh before all of you do. I wiped the inside of the NEW carb and left some paper towel behind. F-ing A my dumb luck.
The boat is idling about 950 now gently moving from 13-15in on vacuum gauge. Because of that I am going to check the timing before putting her in the water. Oh and fuel pressure is a solid 6psi idle to 1800rpm so new pump is working just fine.
Yes I am on the trailer with muffs on, but I couldn't go to the lake to FINE tune until I can keep it running long enough to get off the trailer.

Thanks again for all the input!

I need help with the timing procedure too, my timing cover only shows 12 below tdc (I think) and the manual eventually wants me to check it at 2400-2800rpm. It calls for 25-29 BTDC… Should I make a new post or does someone know a good post on this? I just have a few questions about what the manual says to do.

 

[alldodge]

This is where we need to get into what you actually have. Being a 1997 I figure you have EST ignition.

If that is the case, need to set timing at 1* BTDC not 12
This is done by using a timing shunt to ground. Also connecting interrupter switch together

 

[nola mike]

Also, in general your timing is just set at idle. Only reason to check at 2800 is if you think your module isn't advancing and is faulty. Probably not necessary in your case.

 

[Scott06]

UPDATE FOUND AT LEAST ONE PROBLEM:

Pulled the horn off the carb and I found a tiny piece of Paper Towel under the float needle. HAHA LOL, please let me laugh before all of you do. I wiped the inside of the NEW carb and left some paper towel behind. F-ing A my dumb luck.
The boat is idling about 950 now gently moving from 13-15in on vacuum gauge. Because of that I am going to check the timing before putting her in the water. Oh and fuel pressure is a solid 6psi idle to 1800rpm so new pump is working just fine.
Yes I am on the trailer with muffs on, but I couldn't go to the lake to FINE tune until I can keep it running long enough to get off the trailer.

Thanks again for all the input!

I need help with the timing procedure too, my timing cover only shows 12 below tdc (I think) and the manual eventually wants me to check it at 2400-2800rpm. It calls for 25-29 BTDC… Should I make a new post or does someone know a good post on this? I just have a few questions about what the manual says to do.

We have all done it. I was swapping jets on my GTO and went one notch leaner on test run it ran like crap. Went to swap old ones back in, found a piece of airhorn gasket blocking one of the jets.

go through checking timing, turn idle speed down, and adjust idle mix. Rough it in on the trailer and fine t7ne on the water in gear.

 

[Bayliner3.0]

Yes I have the 97 3.0 LX with EST ignition.
I understand to check and adjust the initial timing at idle, it is step 8 that gets me. I would like to rule out the idea that my module is faulty I would like to complete this step.
My manual states 10-14 BTDC once I reconnect the the neutral and disconnect the jumper AT IDLE.
Then the part about 24-2800 RPM. How do I measure that to confirm it is in spec?

 

[Bayliner3.0]

Also, in general your timing is just set at idle. Only reason to check at 2800 is if you think your module isn't advancing and is faulty. Probably not necessary in your case.

So is the idea, if my timing advances to 12+ or - 2 degrees then I do not need to check the 24-2800 rpm spec? I do not know the life span of a module, but it is the original part from 1997.

 

[Scott06]

Yes I have the 97 3.0 LX with EST ignition.
I understand the initial timing at idle, it is step 8 that gets me. If I am trying to rule out the idea that my module is faulty I would like to complete this step.
My manual states 10-14 BTDC once I reconnect the the neutral and disconnect the jumper AT IDLE.
Then the part about 24-2800 RPM. How do I measure that to confirm it is in spec?

You need an advance timing light to check total. Rev the engine up to 2800 and use the advance feature it will adjust the timing so the light hits at tdc mark. I have an old school one with an advance dial. I would set the dial to 27 degrees. When correct it will tweak the timing of the flash such that it will remove 27 degrees so the flash hits on tdc. Alternatively you can put a tim8ng tape on the balancer with degree marks, this way a non advance timing light will work.


if you check and have around 27 degrees at 2800 and it should pull back to about 10-12 at idle with out the timing shunt in. Would also check condtion of cap rotor plugs and wires

 

[Scott06]

So is the idea, if my timing advances to 12+ or - 2 degrees then I do not need to check the 24-2800 rpm spec?

In theory yes unless you are look8ng for an issue. Never hurts to confirm if total advance is correct. If the module is not working right and yiu don’t get enough advance you will be down on power. Alternatively too much advance can cause detonation and the engine will hammer itself to death

 

[Bayliner3.0]

You need an advance timing light to check total. Rev the engine up to 2800 and use the advance feature it will adjust the timing so the light hits at tdc mark. I have an old school one with an advance dial. I would set the dial to 27 degrees. When correct it will tweak the timing of the flash such that it will remove 27 degrees so the flash hits on tdc. Alternatively you can put a tim8ng tape on the balancer with degree marks, this way a non advance timing light will work.


if you check and have around 27 degrees at 2800 and it should pull back to about 10-12 at idle with out the timing shunt in. Would also check condtion of cap rotor plugs and wires

Ok, thanks for the explanation on this. I just watched a video on making timing tape, but I don’t think I could put it on this balancer as it has a belt on it where the tdc mark is. So I might need a different timing light.
Carb, fuel pump, wires, spark plugs, cap and rotor are all brand new. Installed all at the same time. Hopefully this process didn’t foul the plugs, but I think they will maybe burn clean. I might check them after this is all done.

 

[Scott06]

Ok, thanks for the explanation on this. I just watched a video on making timing tape, but I don’t think I could put it on this balancer as it has a belt on it where the tdc mark is. So I might need a different timing light.
Carb, fuel pump, wires, spark plugs, cap and rotor are all brand new. Installed all at the same time. Hopefully this process didn’t foul the plugs, but I think they will maybe burn clean. I might check them after this is all done.

Your mark is on the pulley not balancer? You can do the math to figure out where 27 degrees BTDC is and put a chalk, paint white out...what ever mark .

Some auto parts stores have loaner tools like timing lights. If you have a gear head in the neighborhood or older guy who is shade tree mechanic they would likely have one.

Unless the distributor was removed or module is bad the newer electronic set ups dont move that much given how few hours you run a boat.

 

[nola mike]

. If you have a gear head in the neighborhood or older guy who is shade tree mechanic they would likely have one.
.

I think the newest car I've owned that could be timed was an 88 VW.

 

[Scott06]

I think the newest car I've owned that could be timed was an 88 VW.

for me was the '94 VW Fox. I bought my advance timing light in the early 90's. The Sun Pro Tach and Dwell I bought at the same time just died, so I took the one out of my dads garage "All American" brand ... I think is from mid 60's - still works... if you dont drop it it will be a lifetime investment

 

[Bayliner3.0]

Your mark is on the pulley not balancer? You can do the math to figure out where 27 degrees BTDC is and put a chalk, paint white out...what ever mark .

Some auto parts stores have loaner tools like timing lights. If you have a gear head in the neighborhood or older guy who is shade tree mechanic they would likely have one.

Unless the distributor was removed or module is bad the newer electronic set ups dont move that much given how few hours you run a boat.

Can’t find a loaner. But you say the tape goes on the pulley? The pulley has a belt on it. The tape needs to go and the circumference, not the face of it right?
Either way I do not think there is much room to place the tape down there anyway it is pretty covered up.
Wait I think I get it. I can not place a piece of tape there because the belt is in the way so measure 27 degrees and put a mark there on the edge, right?

 

[alldodge]

C = 2 x 3.14 x radius
C / 360 = distance per degree
Multiple (distance per degree) by how many degrees your looking for

Remember BTDC is to the right of the notch

 

[Bayliner3.0]

C = 2 x 3.14 x radius
C / 360 = distance per degree
Multiple (distance per degree) by how many degrees your looking for

Remember BTDC is to the right of the notch

I am about to check timing, but the cover plate shows before to the left of notch and after to the right. When facing the front of engine, facing the rear of the boat. I just replaced my timing cover, is it backwards? When reading the timing marks it shows before is above zero and after is below the zero.

 

[Bayliner3.0]

 

[Bayliner3.0]

Also I bought a timing light with degree adjustment so I do not have to try and mark it and do math .

 

[Bayliner3.0]

Sorry I get it I think. If I were to mark the pulley for 27 degrees, make the mark to the right of the notch on the pulley.. Sorry.
But that got me thinking. If I set the timing light to 27 degrees, where should it flash on my timing cover? Still at 1 degree before tdc? It is just moving the flash to 27 degrees below current setting I guess.