I bought a project. On purpose.

[redneck joe]

build braces.

NOW IS THE TIME.

if you are in this deep there is ZERO reason not to do it.


i normally don't use caps, but it is needed.


do it.


oh and treat yourself to some 4 or 6ah ryobi batteries.

 

[PatinIdaho]

I cannot put this back together until next spring, so the plan is to leave the engine stringers in until then, as long as the hull remains flat, and it is so far.
As long as i leave the engine stringers in im pretty sure all is good for now.
Temps are down in the 40s as a high. No fiberglassing allowed for about the next 5 months. January and February we could see -20
So i have been just doing what i can. Demo, sanding, and getting new wood cut and fit-ready to go back together when the weather allows.
The plan for tomorrow is to get it blocked up somehow if it is not raining. Then take the engine stringers out and get teardown and prep work done.

 

[eggs712]

Take lots measurements of the engine mounts; it makes reinstallation much easier.

 

[PatinIdaho]

Yeah. I measured everything from deck height down and from center out before anything was removed.

 

[redneck joe]

Take lots measurements of the engine mounts; it makes reinstallation much easier.

with pictures

 

[bakerjw]

I really want to take the two engine stringers out but i don't know how much they are actually supporting the hull. As it is right now it is sitting on a roller trailer and holding a 4 foot level against the hull on the outside it is still flat.
The hull is 1/2 inch thick, as far as i can tell and the small center section area is close to an inch altogether.

A lot of people overlook the support aspect and end up with warpage along the way. If it were me, I'd takeout all of the old material and rebuild back better and stronger.

I saw some discussion about epoxy and traditional resins. Epoxy sticks to everything if it is prepped well. Poly and vinyl esters will stick to epoxy but it is a mechanical bond and has to have good clean rough surface.

 

[PatinIdaho]

A lot of people overlook the support aspect and end up with warpage along the way. If it were me, I'd takeout all of the old material and rebuild back better and stronger.

I saw some discussion about epoxy and traditional resins. Epoxy sticks to everything if it is prepped well. Poly and vinyl esters will stick to epoxy but it is a mechanical bond and has to have good clean rough surface.

I just got a 6-foot level yesterday. Before i fiberglass anything, the hull will be flat.
From what i read, epoxy is the best to use and most expensive.
I don't need the best, and i don't really like working with epoxy.
The boat was built with polyester. Least expensive and has not failed yet and probably never would.
I plan on using vinylester laminating resin. For me, it's the easiest to use and what im familiar with.
Better than poly, but not as strong as epoxy. Middle ground on price.

The hull is 38 years old and the fiberglass has not failed even with all the less than ideal construction i have found.
Honestly, with good prep work anything i do will be as good or better than the factory did.

 

[PatinIdaho]

with pictures

I have about 1000 more pics than I have posted, both before and after.

 

[eggs712]

Yeah, poly resin is plenty strong, especially vinylester.

 

[Chris1956]

Gee, I have done fiberglass work in the dead of winter here in the NE. I put some blankets over the hull and an electric heater inside. Remember, poly resin is flammable, so one needs to be careful.