Hydrolocked in the parkinglot

[gica]

So I took the port riser, elbow and manifold out. There is rust but not complete blockage. Will dip it in some CLR cleaner and hopefully will clean most of it out. The rest just brush it.
I want to clean the carb off any dirt, should I just rebuild it or clean it?
Pictures of the parts are here:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/nfhz7vgv5moj8kp/AACkNkr7v_4swfZ_LrHPv2qYa?dl=0

 

[alldodge]

The exhaust looks like it will clean up
If carb is rebuilt now then no need to remove and do later if needed, but if its ok now, then no need to rebuild. Your choice

 

[gica]

on the carb kit I noticed that the floats don't really withstand the ethanol as per a YouTube rebuild guide so they give a parts address
https://www.carburetor-parts.com/Mer...12_p_3483.html
on the page you will see a brass float but people ***** there is no marking to measure distance.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YMqh32AU8_E
THis one says it does:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercruiser-...53.m1438.l2649

 

[tank1949]

API marine sucks. Just took one of their POS starters off my 5.0 mpi. Previous installer had grind starter bolts to even get through mounting holes. pinion shaft 1/16" closer to mounting holes causing starter to drag when key released. Stolen design aftermarket fking junk. idiot at API customer service said flywheel probably bent. idiots

you want a starter that fits, works without noise and no plastic gears get a quicksilver.

Please make sure that you go back with same type starter bolts. If my memory serves me correctly they are special 3/8" common but a special tapper and knurled to help center starter. Using straight bolts may cause gear teeth to be eaten up. Good luck!.

 

[gica]

I wanted to revive the thread with updates on the issue.
So I replaced the manifolds and elbows with another set. Replaced the flappers also put everything back sealed properly.
rebuild the carburetor with a kit from Mikes Carburetor which seems to be the most complete, also bought and installed a brass float.
everything is back and I started it.
It was running great few adjustments here and there and THEN I noticed that no water comes out of the back of the exhaust.
I am including pictures of the hose connector.
Ok so inside I have picture of the plastic removable blue plugs one had some hot water the lower had none.

Ok so inside I have picture of the plastic removable blue plugs one had some hot water the lower had none.

I am also including pictures from the back where the port side hose goes, and the picture of the thermostat housing.
What can I do next. I am researching where the bottle neck is. it has to be between the outside hose and the thermostat housing.
Compression was great on this. So remember the story as it initially transpired the boat was water locked and not while on water but in the parking lot. So whatever caused that might still be around.


I am looking at the water pump and I see a lot of the salt build up outside of it. Funny because it has only seen salt once. So why all of this white stuff? Is it a stuck thermostat?

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,..... How long since the raw water impeller was changed,..??

That's where I'd start,.....

 

[Grub54891]

The water pump has been leaking for quite some time. You need a new one.

 

[gica]

So I took out the water pump and thermostat. Here are some pics

This is where the water leaked from the pump

Is there a way to use the flush hose and connected to see if I get water to the lower hose that is now disconnected from the water pump?

This is the long port side hose line that comes from the transom area.

Also to take down the lower drive unit and check the raw water pump there there are 6 bolts holding the unit, is there anything else holding it?

 

[gica]

Found this video
How do I remove my Alpha 1 gen 2 lower unit - YouTube

 

[boatflipperz]

So I took out the water pump and thermostat. Here are some pics
View attachment 333154View attachment 333155
This is where the water leaked from the pump
View attachment 333156
Is there a way to use the flush hose and connected to see if I get water to the lower hose that is now disconnected from the water pump?
View attachment 333157View attachment 333158
This is the long port side hose line that comes from the transom area.

Also to take down the lower drive unit and check the raw water pump there there are 6 bolts holding the unit, is there anything else holding it?

When you remove the thermostat housing look down inside for holes like pin size holes or larger. Sometimes the intake manifold rots out just below the thermostat. Just some helpful info.

 

[QBhoy]

Is it possible your lower blue plug on the block you mention as dry, is blocked with the usual crap ?
Is it possible your muffs aren’t good for sealing enough to let the water pump work well ?
Have you checked the oil since ? Any sign of water ingress ?
Any visible leaks out the block externally and into the bilge ?
Is there an oil cooler on the pipe between the outdrive and the engine ?

 

[gica]

No I have not seen any oil leaks right now, ran the engine 2 or 3 times and no leaks. There is an oil cooler in the back of the engine.

Ordered this water pump kit:Amazon.com: Quicksilver 817275Q05 Upper Water Pump Repair Kit - MerCruiser Alpha One Gen II Drives and Vazer Drives: Sports & Outdoors
Do I need any other special gasket sealer or grease for this?
When the lower drive goes back does it only use the little oil ring for the oil and that's it?
And I also have another question when I used to put it in gear it sometimes took longer to engage I would have to put the lever higher and it would engage, on water though I think only reverse did this somewhat. Is there something I can do for that or is that just adjustment from the cables?

 

[gica]

Ok so I opened up the lower drive and here is the water impeller, it looks really odd to me but have never seen another.

There are pictures of the area where the pump goes

As you probably didn't expect I forgot that there was a bolt at the outer end and by forcing it the casing I cracked on side of it. I assume I can get it welded since there is no sealing there or much pressure? It's aluminum right? Here is my great accomplishment:

So while I am here do you guys recommend replacing anything in the gimbal and transom area? I need the big gasket and an 2 inch O-ring for sure.

 

[tank1949]

Id be really concerned if hydrolocking was due to bad risers and your pressure washing was just icing on cake. Take off riser and look for rust inside exhaust manifold or dripping water around near where exhaust manifold attached to block. . Cheap test....

 

[gica]

I already removed the manifolds and riser and no water was present , no traces of any rust in the exhaust area. This boat was not used and abused it mostly set.

 

[gica]

Do I have to repaint the inside of the thermostat housing where the metal is exposed?

 

[Grub54891]

Do I have to repaint the inside of the thermostat housing where the metal is exposed?

No.

 

[gica]

Should I mess with the gimbal steering arm swivel? I know it's a pain to remove and there is a certain way to tighten it. The original might be corroded I don't know but looking at the stuff I took out which doesn't look so bad I would rather not. What say you?

 

[gica]

GIMBEL RING DISASSEMBLE - YouTube
Better not

 

[gica]

The whole area including bellows are really good and the bearing is perfect. This boat has not been used much. If you look at the pictures I took there is no water intrusion anywhere. I wonder if I should just leave it alone for now and wait awhile. I am just pissed off that the alignment tool I bought didn't arrive.