Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

[Idlespeedonly]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

What is the part number of your cam? Some of the retro fits can use an iron gear. I have a friend named Aaron Mick who works at Comp. He knows quite alot on cams, give him a call. Sometimes it takes a while to get him. Also, if you have a HV pump you dont want the composite gear. It wont last.

 

[Idlespeedonly]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

Also, did you use a thrust button?

 

[greg82255]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

What is the part number of your cam? Some of the retro fits can use an iron gear. I have a friend named Aaron Mick who works at Comp. He knows quite alot on cams, give him a call. Sometimes it takes a while to get him. Also, if you have a HV pump you dont want the composite gear. It wont last.

The Comp Cams part # is 12-417-8. It's also XM270HR. Specs are .495/.503, 218/224@.050, 112 LSA. I talked to an expert at Comp Cams a few weeks ago and he said I needed a melonized distributor gear. I'll give them a call back on Monday and see if I can get Aaron Mick. I am using a Melling HV oil pump.

Also, did you use a thrust button?

I bought a kit from Comp Cams that included the timing cover, gasket, cam bolts and a thrust button. I bought it because the expert I talked to recommended it.

 

[SuperNova]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

Never mind....went back and read more posts...answered my own questions.

 

[Idlespeedonly]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

You know most of the times the thrust button needs to be "adjusted" to make sure you have the right end play. A few earlier post I suggested you get some expert help on this to kinda go over it with you live and in person. Just think how dissapointed you would be if at minimum you spun a bearing due to clearances. Or worst case you throw a rod. for little extra money you should be able to get a pro to go over it with you. Trust me it is cheap insurance. As for the 3/8 studs i think you will be ok. lift and spring pressure somewhat determine what stud size to use. And as for your rockers I have never seen self aligning aluminum full roller. Not saying they dont make them though. A pic you had earlier they didnt look like self aligning. Can you snap a pic of the tip, top and bottom?

 

[joewithaboat]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

You know most of the times the thrust button needs to be "adjusted" to make sure you have the right end play. A few earlier post I suggested you get some expert help on this to kinda go over it with you live and in person. Just think how dissapointed you would be if at minimum you spun a bearing due to clearances. Or worst case you throw a rod. for little extra money you should be able to get a pro to go over it with you. Trust me it is cheap insurance. As for the 7/16 studs i think you will be ok. lift and spring pressure somewhat determine what stud size to use. And as for your rockers I have never seen self aligning aluminum full roller. Not saying they dont make them though. A pic you had earlier they didnt look like self aligning. Can you snap a pic of the tip, top and bottom?

When self aligning rockers came to be the aftermarket was slow to provide them. However most all of the rocker arm companies now make them.

 

[Idlespeedonly]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

Yep. I did some checking and see how they do it.

 

[Pete104]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

Please enlighten me on the "thrust button".

 

[greg82255]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

You know most of the times the thrust button needs to be "adjusted" to make sure you have the right end play. A few earlier post I suggested you get some expert help on this to kinda go over it with you live and in person. Just think how dissapointed you would be if at minimum you spun a bearing due to clearances. Or worst case you throw a rod. for little extra money you should be able to get a pro to go over it with you. Trust me it is cheap insurance. As for the 7/16 studs i think you will be ok. lift and spring pressure somewhat determine what stud size to use. And as for your rockers I have never seen self aligning aluminum full roller. Not saying they dont make them though. A pic you had earlier they didnt look like self aligning. Can you snap a pic of the tip, top and bottom?

At the moment I can't go outside and take a picture of them. Here are the rockers I bought:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G6936-16/
Also, I was told that the spring pressure I have is about 105-108 lbs. Both the original builder and the 2nd head shop I used said that this would be good enough for the cam I am using.

As for the thrust button, I was told by the Comp Cams expert that everything would work the way it is, and when I looked at it I saw that the timing cover actually had some sort of shim attached to it where the thrust button touches, in addition to the thickness of the wear plate that I used. I assumed that the shim would be sized to correctly set the end play. The thrust button that came with the kit is actually bolted to the upper cam cam gear and cam holes. If it's really necessary then I could take it back to the builder and go over it.

 

[greg82255]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

Please enlighten me on the "thrust button".

I'm not sure if this is entirely correct, but to me it seems like the thrust button sits between the cam gear and the timing cover to ensure that the cam stays in the correct position. I'm not sure why it's needed for the roller cam but not for the flat tappet.

 

[Idlespeedonly]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

Here is a link that explains everything. Since no two blocks are alike you need to check the endplay.
Here is a really good link to read that explains it.
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/49161_set_roller_cam_endplay/index.html

 

[joewithaboat]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

Here is a link that explains everything. Since no two blocks are alike you need to check the endplay.
Here is a really good link to read that explains it.
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/49161_set_roller_cam_endplay/index.html

That's a good link and a good point. The cam kit should also come with all of the same instructions.

 

[Flysfloatsor]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

WOW, I wish I would have cought you a few weeks ago when you had your head problems. I would have suggested buying the aftermarket ones I did after I broke some press in studs. Looks like your build is nice. I used similar pistons, I wish I would have used flat tops.

 

[Flysfloatsor]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

Portions of my engine build.

 

[Pete104]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

Flyfloatsor, is that oil pump p/u welded or not?

 

[Tail_Gunner]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

I actually had drilled the pushrod holes myself before I took the heads to the shop, so they're all done. I'll call the head shop and see what they recommend, although the guy did tell me to just buy a stock length hardened pushrod and forget about it. I don't think he knew I was using the taller retro fit roller lifters. I'll tell him and see what he says.

I asked about the washers because I've never heard of anyone doing it before, and wanted to know if some builders consider it an acceptable option. I think that would be a last resort.

Hello Greg as John voiced concern im going to double that.Plz place close attention to any grinding on your heads....have this new head place inspect the nessecary mods done to your heads that will allow the lift your shooting for. Spacers under your springs is a very bad sign.


Randy explain a getto grind if you will....I can see no work done on the heads...but i am old

 

[John_S]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

explain a getto grind if you will

The "getto grind" is a cheap diy method to get extra lift on stock vortec heads. The 0.470+- max lift comes from valve spring retainer to oil seal clearance. The "getto grind" removes material from the bottom of the retainer. They take 0.015-0.020 off the bottom of the retainer.

 

[John_S]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

Nice build. Wondering about your comment on the pistons. Do you say that, just because you wanted a higher compression ratio? or lower cost?

 

[joewithaboat]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

Hello Greg as John voiced concern im going to double that.Plz place close attention to any grinding on your heads....have this new head place inspect the nessecary mods done to your heads that will allow the lift your shooting for. Spacers under your springs is a very bad sign.


Randy explain a getto grind if you will....I can see no work done on the heads...but i am old

Spacers under the springs just mean that someone actually checked the installed height and possibly measured the close spring pressure. Which is a good thing.

Greg,
Add checking for coil bind at max open valve lift to your list of things to check. Its a little tricky to actually measure it with the hydraulic roller lifter. You may need to get with the shop that just had your heads and ask them if they recorded your installed height. Then call the spring maker to tell them your cam lift, corrected to the 1.6 rocker, and see if you are approaching the coil bind Zone.
With smaller od single springs like that .500 is where you need to actually start measuring it on the assembly.

 

[Idlespeedonly]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

Spacers under the springs just mean that someone actually checked the installed height and possibly measured the close spring pressure. Which is a good thing.

Greg,
Add checking for coil bind at max open valve lift to your list of things to check. Its a little tricky to actually measure it with the hydraulic roller lifter. You may need to get with the shop that just had your heads and ask them if they recorded your installed height. Then call the spring maker to tell them your cam lift, corrected to the 1.6 rocker, and see if you are approaching the coil bind Zone.
With smaller od single springs like that .500 is where you need to actually start measuring it on the assembly.

The washer he was referring to was for the lock nut. He couldnt get it tight. He didnt know about the set screw in the middle. I dont think he was talking about the shims.