Happy Hump Day to everyone. The more I look at this boat the more it seems achievable but I have a few questions that will truly make me sound like what I am (a boating amateur)
So here we go:
1) So I know the fiberglass shell, top half and bottom half, the stringers running from one side to the other, the fiberglass covering the stringers and other wood studs and framework. Then plywood on top of frame, make little holes in plywood and fill with foam. Lastly fiberglass everything....Is this "the basics"? Am I missing anything?
Your basics are very close...The top half is considered the cap, the bottom half is called the hull, stringers are actually the part of the frame work of the hull that run front to back, or fore and aft, or bow and stern...any framework that runs side to side is considered a bulkhead...this video I made will give you a little idea as to what's involved in "foaming" the hull...
2) Marine wood ($100) vs. pressure treated wood ($40) vs regular wood ($8). These are rough figures for plywood. I can waterproof and fiberglass regular wood for less than pressure treated and/or marine. Is marine grade wood a major factor? Obviously I have to cough up some money but my pockets have a limit, a very small limit that requires refills every month. lol
ACX plywood is used very often, the price is reasonable and the quality is usually good...there are many types of plywood that can be used, but the biggest thing to look for is the use of a water resistant bonding agent used to make the plywood laminates and minimal to zero voids...Marine grade is one of the better choices as are some of the newer Pressure treated, Kiln-dried plywoods that are extremely resistant to rot, but their costs can be quite high...You should NOT use regular pressure treated wood since it is usually pretty wet with chemicals and the resins will NOT stick to it until it is bone dry, but by then these types of plywoods tend to warp...
Properly sealed wood/plywood of almost any kind can and has been used, but if it isn't sealed up, it will rot and disintegrate quite quickly in the marine environment...
3) When I remove the floor, stringers, framework and engine: I keep seeing videos of people (grinding and/or sanding) the fiberglass shell. They mention smoothing out to get a better grip on the new stringers, also space the stringers about 1/4th of an inch away from the fiberglass shell so that it doesnât sit directly on the shell. Can someone please explain these two thing to me?
"Rickmerrill" above explained the separation bit and what to look for/how far to grind fiberglass fairly well above^^^...You basically want to grind down to good, fresh glass to expose a fairly smooth surface and lots of pores for the new resin/cloth to get a good mechanical bond too...
4) Now comes the painful question. Is there ever an engine that is completely trash? I saw a few videos on cracked blocks, irreparable corrosion. Iâm thinking of taking this engine out and keeping it in my attached garage through the fall and winter, while I rebuild the inside of the boat. So Iâm going to tinker with it in my garage and have it connected to water and gas. So my question: is there anything that I should keep an eye out before I work on the engine? What does a cracked block look like?
Yes, they become boat anchors when the repairs far exceed their replacement cost or the life expectancy of the repairs needed to bring it back to serviceable condition...LOL...
Some indications of a cracked block include, but are not limited to...water in the oil, oil in the water, poor compression, fuel in the oil, fuel in the water...most of the time you won't be able to see an internal crack in a block or head until the engine is completely disassembled...what I mentioned in my previous post, above, are all things you should look for in diagnosing and preparing your engine before you attempt to start it...some or all of those will give you a fair indication of the general health of your engine and drive...
Please include any mistake or notes that any of you have come across while working on boats. I read all you post and am a very fast learner so even if it seems silly, it may come in handy for me (the guy that knows nothing).
yup, you could sell that drive, as it sits, for 2-3 times what you have 'into' the boat. Nice newer lines though, all cleaned up and new, she will be quite nice i think..
