Have I gone too far?

[DeepBlue2010]

I appreciate all of the help thus far. I don't know if I will have time to do much work on it this week but I should be able to get some photo's posted for your inspection and added insights this evening.

DeepBlue2010 ,

In your earlier post, you talked about feathering. Am I understanding it right by thinking that you mean reducing the thickness? I believe it is about 3/8 to 1/2" thick at present state. How much should I reduce the thickness at the edge?

Yes, feathering is to gradually reduce the thickness of the laminate from total thickness farther away from the cut to a shallow depth of either greater than half or almost to nothing near the cut depends on how are you going to proceed with the repair.

If you are going to feather and glass from both sides (front and back) as I described, the edges should be feathered from both sides to meet at an edge right in the middle like this shape >

You can do this in 2 stages; You can start by feathering one side just past half of the total thicness of the laminate (the part you cut out), glass it and go back to the other side and feather and glass. You will ne grinding through the new glass you just put on the side you started with but this is not a bad thing. You will be applying new glass over it again anyway.


If you will be fixing from one side only. Feather to an edge on the opposite side of the repair. Like a chisel blade shape.


Some repair shops will argue that the repair is requird on one side only and the wood of the transom is all you need to support the inside part of the repair. Be that as it may, saving time and efforts and charging you for a complete repair anyway or a legitimate argument, I would not do it this way. I am working for myself and I am not trying to save few bucks so I will fix it the way I want it. Doesn't mean it is the only way to do, it is just what I would do.

 

[Woodonglass]

Are you saying that the fiberglass hull is 1/2" thick???

 

[AFlowers]

No Title

I may have over estimated that. It's more like 3/8". Below are more photo's.

 

[Woodonglass]

So is the inner fiberglass skin of the transom 3/8" thick??

 

[AFlowers]

No. The inner part is very sturdy but I'd have to say it is less 3/16 or less.

 

[Woodonglass]

OK, well it may or may not be good enuf to support the new transom. Once you get the old wood core out and clean up the inner skin we'll be able to determine if it's gunna be slavagable. As I previously stated. Since the outer skin has been cut you'll need to ensure the inner skin is attached to the new wood core extremely well and that the laminations to the hull sides and bottom are very good. This will ensure the structural integrity of the stern. Your efforts to repair the cut-away outer skin will also be able to improve the hulls structure so making sure both the inner and outer skins are glassed as good as you can get them is gunna be key!!! It's been done before so don't worry about it. You'll get it done too!!!

Here's some more pis of what you're kinda gunna do. Patching back in the piece you cut out after the new wood is put back in... only difference is since you cut so close to the edges you'll have to wrap around the edges which is a bit harder to make look good.

 

[AFlowers]

Sounds good. Ive borrowed a belt sander to help in the feathering process. The weekend is supposed to be in the 70's so I should be able to get a good start on it.

 

[ondarvr]

The way to get back on track will only take a little more time.

Put the transom back in place, glass a few places on the outside so it stays in place, don't worry about what it looks like, this is just to hold it in place. You could actually do a better job and use epoxy, but you may end up grinding a bunch of it off. Almost forgot, pre-grind the inside of it down a bit, it's easier to do it now than later. You should taper both the hull and transom cutout before putting in place because it will be easier to do it now.

With the transom skin glassed back in place, cut the inside transom skin out and grind down the hull near the seam where outside skin meets the hull. This area needs to be glassed well, make it thicker than the current hull and transom. Now you can fit the needed amount of plywood for the transom in place and glass over it.

On the outside use epoxy, grind it out down to the glass you applied from the inside, you will probably need to taper it around and onto the bottom of the hull, don't do it if you can get away without it though. Rebuild it with epoxy and glass, on the back of the transom it's not as important to keep it flat and even with the surrounding surface, but if you need to wrap it around onto the hull make sure you don't leave a lump or bump, this will mess with performance.

The strength will be on the inside, the outside will be strong, but mostly cosmetic to hide the seam.

 

[gm280]

I think what some are trying to say is how to set the two parts us so you will have a good solid finish when you join them together. I think they are suggesting something like this;




JMHO!

 

[AFlowers]

Thanks. So far, with all of the help, what I think I am going to do is go with ondarvr latest suggestion. It's kind of what I have been thinking. I feel intuitively confident that:

1. Glassing the outer hull back on after having it prepped.
2. Removing the inner skin, feathering the inside edges and then building it back up.
3. Going back to the outside skin and then feathering the edges and then building it back up.
4. Prepping the inside and epoxying the transom to the inside of the outer skin and then tabbing it to the inside, then building up a new inner skin.


I feel this will be the best course of action because of the inner skin looks to me that it is just leftover laminate left over after the wood rotted away. Also because of the narrow area of support left over after I had cut that outer skin out.

I plan to over build just a little make sure that is not all for nothing.

 

[Stumpalump]

I like your new plan. So what you cut the wrong side. We have all done worse so slap it back on and go with plan B. Good job. Your Dad would be proud!

 

[gm280]

AFlowers, just to reassure you, once you get this under control again, You will be extremely amazed how solid all this will become. So follow the suggestions and you will end up with a truly solid boat again. Yes, you did cut the wrong side, but that IS water under the bridge now and it isn't an Earth stopper. JMHO!

 

[AFlowers]

Also, I forgot to mention that I have access to some carbon fiber. Would this be a good choice on the build up areas after feathering just to for added strength and since of security?

 

[wellcraft-classic210]

Will gelcoats adhere to Epoxy well ? I am under the impression that's a problem sometimes.

 

[AFlowers]

Idk. But, I intend to sand all surfaces really well before I start the outer build up so there shouldn't be any gel coat left on the areas I plan to bond to. I'm not looking for showroom finish when done. Just a sturdy repair. Then I'll sand and paint/gel coat the best I can after that.

 

[wellcraft-classic210]

My point was you may not be able to use Gelcoat as topcoat if you don't use poly based resins regardless of the sanding prep work as it may not adhere to the epoxy . Epoxy paints should be OK.

( Just raising the point and asking so you don't have unforeseen troubles )

Hopefully the experts with more experience will advise. Their may be some other options .

 

[DeepBlue2010]

Wellcraft is not referring to the existing gelcoat. I belive the point he is trying to make is that... if you use carbonfiber cloth you have to use epoxy resin. When the time comes for you to choose a finish, gelcoat is out of the picture because it (gelcoat) doest like epoxy that much.

 

[AFlowers]

Ah. I gotcha.

 

[gm280]

Just my simple opinion, I would forego the carbon-fiber material and use both 1708 and CSM with polyester resins and repair this boat back to like new again. I can tell you, once you get everything back into place, it will be every bit as strong as original, maybe even stronger. JMHO!

 

[AFlowers]

gm280 Yah. I'm gonna let the carbon fiber idea fade away......:joyous: