Have I gone too far?

AFlowers

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Jun 21, 2013
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Help. I need to know if I have ruined my project. I am in the process of restoring a 1978 15 ft. Kennedy Kraft. The project started out to just replace the transom. I?ve never done this before so I went to youtube. I found a video that seemed legit and showed where they cut the back of the boat off, replaced the inners and then reattached the portion that they cut-off. So, that?s what I did. Now, I have decided to replace the stringers and everything as well. I have the cap off, the floor out, and will proceed to ever so gently try and removed the rotten stringers soon. However, my main concern is fixing the stern of the boat. Have I gone too far with cutting it off or will I be able to secure back to the transom once I get in and then maybe reattach it with Cabosil? Will this be strong enough? My motor is a 1979 50 HP Mercury.

I will upload pics if I can this afternoon. Any hope that you can provide will be appreciated.
 

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GA_Boater

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Have you gone too far? Yeah. The final repair is going to be a lot more work now. Not impossible and she may not look like before. Too bad you didn't ask and watch more videos. Water over the dam now.

You need a lot more than Cabosil to tab the outer skin back on. I'll let the other guys advise you.
 

DeepBlue2010

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Oh, yes.. you did. I wish you did not build your whole entire plan of attack based on one odd video on youtube but this is water under the bridge now. The only reason I bring it up is for the benefit of anyone who might be in your position in the future.

The bad news....

You created a lot more work for yourself than needed be. Most of us do this repair from inside not by removing the outer skin specially that you mentioned the cap is already out. The only reason some people remove the outer skin is to avoid - for whatever reason - removing the cap.

The not so bad news...

Depends on your glassing/gelcoating skills, she might not look the same after you done but this can be avoided - again - by a decent amount of patience and elbow grease

The good news...

Nothing in a fiberglass boat can't be put together with hard work, good supply of patience and good techniques.

There are so many ways to skin this cat, First, forget about tapping the outer skin back in place. This will not restore the original strength to the transom. The edges of the removed skin and the edges of the hull need to be feathered from inside and outside so the new glass is overlapping a good distance on both sides of the seem. There are some formulas to determine this distance but I am guessing a foot or more on each side should do it. The good news is the longer the feather the better and you can't make it too wide so I would feather for 12-18 inches on each side of the seam.

If you already measured and cut the new transom, use it as a backing plate - with no glue or glass yet - only to support the outer skin in place. If the transom is not ready, use whatever technique you like.... Wood dowels cut to size with a bolt and nut through the outer and inner skins to keep the skin in place...... insulation foam sheets from home depot cut to size. The objective is to keep the cutout secure in place.

I would feather all edges before on both sides of the two pieces (outer skin and hull) before securing the skin to the boat.

You got to close to the edges of the transom where it curves and meet the sides of the hull. Make sure you feather through these sides and your glass is overlapping them also. The same goes for the bottom of the hull. The point is that the new glass should spread away from the cut as possible.

You will need a good supply of rags, Acetone and personal protection equipment. Clean all edges with Acetone in one direction and keep folding the rags to a fresh surface and don't over use them.

I am assuming you will be using polyester resin. I use Vinyl-ester as my personal preference and I would advice you to use it also but regular laminating poly resin will also do the job. VE is better though but it doesn't mean that regular poly sucks.

You will need 1708 fabric. Cut it so that each piece is larger than the one before it. You will need about 5 layers on each side of the repair (inside and outside the boat) 5 layer is about 1/4 inch of total thickness. Don't lay them all down at the same time, the generate heat might cook the laminate. Put 2, let it cure and cool then ... clean with Acetone and repeat. Measure the recess with straight edge and see if you need more glass. If you need it use it, it is stronger than filler.

You got to close to the edges of the transom where it curves and meet the sides of the hull. Make sure you feather through these sides and your glass is overlapping them also.

When you are done, cover the whole area... skin, hull.. sides and bottom with two layers of 1708. You are done on the outside

Now, go inside and do the same and build the transom back. The inner skin will need to be cut for that.

Finally, you will need to worry about filling,,, fairing .... sanding and gelling

Some might suggest a simpler procedure and it is up to you to do what you see needed. I am only sharing with you what I would do if I am in your place and if it is an overkill, that is fine be me, Better overkill the repair than it kills me or worse, my family.


One thing you might consider if you see that this is too much work for you is to find a replacement hull. Start with that one and transfer everything from your current boat to that hull. If you think about it, it might be just as much work as doing this one right but you might feel better about knowing that the hull is structurally sound. Few thoughts to consider.

Best of luck to you. Any questions, just ask.


I am also notifying our resident expert on fiberglass/gelcoat ondarvr to chime in. If he says anything different than what I mentioned follow his advice. He probably forgot about resins, fiberglass and gelcoat more than I will ever learn
 
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Woodonglass

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As GA_Boater stated you've made your restoration a LOT more tedious but NOT impossible. It's fiberglass and therefore anything can be repaired. We can/will guide you through the process to make her good as new and your skills will dictate how good it looks in the end. Have you ever worked with laminating fiberglass in the past??
 

AFlowers

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Jun 21, 2013
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I appreciate the info so far. I do have some experience in fiberglass work and I'm confident that I have the patience and workmanship to do it. If this was any other boat it would already be in the scrap yard, but, it was my dads and I would love to bring it back...


DeepBlue2010,

I have not cut the new transom yet. I just got the cap and old deck off yesterday and am going to tackle the stringers first so I have plenty of time to plan the transom fix. I really appreciate you guys/gals help so far. I really feel like an idiot but I have to get this figured out.
 

Woodonglass

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Don't throw away the glass skin you cut away You can and should use it again. The strength of the transom will come from your laminations that you do on the inside to the side walls and the bottom of the hull. You'll only need to feather the glass on the outside on the piece you cut out and on the perimeter of the lip. This will allow you to blend the glass back into the hull 12:1 is the recommended ration so since the glass is appoximately 1/4" thick that means about 12/4 or 3" on each side of the cut line for a total of 6". I'd prolly recommend 8"- 10" Methods and materials can be discussed when the time comes. Since you didn't leave much of a lip on the outside you'll have to wrap the glass around the edges but that will be done after you get the wood transom core installed back in the boat. You'll need to make a pattern for the new one from the old one so take some good measurements now so you can recreate the new one. The transom should be put back first before the stringers since they need to be tied into the transom. How many stringers are there? Got any pics of the boat now that the cap is off?? Did you take a LOT of measurements so you'll know the width of the hull etc... Very critical to know all of this so the Cap will go back on when you get all the new components glassed back in.
 
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DeepBlue2010

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So, this pretty much settled it. Dad's boat worth a lot in sentimental currency.

Get passed it now and dont keep torture yourself. We all did too many stupid things than we have the courage to admit.

One thing I am worried about is now with the cap off and the hull is missing the transom side of the shell, the hull could be subject to stress forces that might bend it out os shape. This can happen actually with the hull intact so it is very likely to happen now.

What kind of trailer you have, bunk or rollers?

Also the stringers need to meet the transom at a joint. Not sure if you start with stringers first, how this will impact your ability to get the transom done.

I am leaning towards reinstalling the cap to support the hull and get the transom done first
 

AFlowers

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Jun 21, 2013
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Woodonglass,

I do not have any photo's at the moment. I will post them as soon as I can. This boat has only three stringers. The center and one on each side. I have measurements for the hull from when the cap was on at every foot. I haven't thrown away the cut out.
 

Woodonglass

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AFlowers

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DeepBlue2010,

My trailer has bunks and good long side supports. I will get the transom installed before the the stringers. I just meant that I was going to take my time getting them out..
 

AFlowers

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Jun 21, 2013
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Woodonglass,

I will certainly add some straps for support. The inner fiber glass skin for the transom seems pretty sturdy, i'd guess it's about 3/16 to 1/4". But I'm afraid that while trying to get the remaining adhered wood off of it, I may damage it. What's your idea. I figured that I'd have to cut it out once on I get the outer back on so I would be able to get the new transom in.
 

DeepBlue2010

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If you reinstall the cap back and make it fit, your boat now is in its original shape. Throwing in nylon straps or any other techniques such ad wires, etc on the hull with the cap out cant provide any guarantees because the hull now could be out of shape already.

If I were in your place, I would put the cap back on first to reach a good initial state. Take all the measurements you need from this initial state as we as any precautions or good measures to keep the hull in shape.

Also, try to access the needs of removing the cap before reattaching the outer skin or at least a good part of it.

If possible, I would prefer to do this - even partially - with the cap still on
 
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AFlowers

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I appreciate all of the help thus far. I don't know if I will have time to do much work on it this week but I should be able to get some photo's posted for your inspection and added insights this evening.

DeepBlue2010 ,

In your earlier post, you talked about feathering. Am I understanding it right by thinking that you mean reducing the thickness? I believe it is about 3/8 to 1/2" thick at present state. How much should I reduce the thickness at the edge?
 
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GA_Boater

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If you have some nylon straps you might wanna strap the hull to avoid flexing and pull her back into the correct measurements. Any idea how thick the inner fiberglass skin is for the transom?? Lots of boats almost make it mandatory to do the transom from the outside in. This might make you feel a bit better...http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/430079-scarab-sport-transom-repair.html#b

Might not be a good example to use, WOG. It looks the guy may have given up midway. :blue:
 

AFlowers

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@GA_Boater,

I am all in if the repair can be done and be safe afterwards. I don't mind spending a little extra on added supplies due to my mistake, plus, I don't have other things to do to occupy me during my off time. It may not work out in the end but I am up for the challenge if the possibility of working out is there. :joyous:
 

gm280

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Oh this is an interesting project indeed. While I could offer my 2 cents worth, it would merely be redundant. So I'll watch and read for now. Sure wish you would have come here first for ideas and suggestions instead of a You Tube video. Your work would have been substantially reduced. But stay here with the experts and they will guide you through this nicely. JMHO!
 

Woodonglass

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@GA_Boater,

I am all in if the repair can be done and be safe afterwards. I don't mind spending a little extra on added supplies due to my mistake, plus, I don't have other things to do to occupy me during my off time. It may not work out in the end but I am up for the challenge if the possibility of working out is there. :joyous:


Not to worry. You CAN/WILL be able to repair your boat and get her back on the water in a totally safe condition. I will take a little longer but she'll be strong and safe!!!:sad:
 
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