Gale 5D10B

[ohm116]

Re: Gale 5D10B

I haven't gotten anywhere with the spray lube so my Dad suggested to reinstall the seal plate a fill the whole thing with light oil. So I reinstalled the seal and filled it with some cheap ATF that I had for oiling Weber airfilters That should do a good job of loosening things up and the seals seem to be sealing, even with ATF.

 

[ohm116]

Re: Gale 5D10B

I finally got the clutch to free up and work, I think it was from the tapping of my ball peen hammer to make a new gasket I have the lower unit installed with a new gasket and I going to pick up a bottle of alcohol today to clean the tank and see if it well start for me I also sprayed the throttle/ timing plate with some WD-40 and it moves nicely now.

 

[ohm116]

Re: Gale 5D10B

Does a crazy happy dance I smell like smoke and my jeans are wet, standing too close to the can when the prop engaged It runs, I swished out the tank and installed it and the recoil, placed an unsuspecting garbage can under it and filled it with water. I mixed the gas a bit on the oily side, about 6 oz of tw-c3 in a gallon. Pulled the rope about 8 times, not sure I got it primed enough, and it went, I went and played around with it for 5 minutes to get an idea where it likes to run, it seems to troll nicely.

One question though, is it normal for it to drip a bit of fuel out the top of the float bowl as it is running or might the float seal be bad?

 

[steelespike]

Re: Gale 5D10B

I don't have personal experience but I would say no.Is it coming out the gasket or the float pin?Does it drip when not running?

 

[ohm116]

Re: Gale 5D10B

It is coming out the top around the float pin, I am not sure about it doing it while off, I turned the gas off shortly after stopping the engine and didn't take much notice. I have to play with the throttle arm a bit because it runs into the primer lever after tweaking it to get it to clear the dented tank. Now that I know it runs good I well work on getting the dents out of the tank, repaint it and get new decals.

A question about oil, it smokes pretty good, which is understandable and I don't mind too much but I am sure some people would complain about it, would synthetic oil A) be alright to run in an engine of this vintage and B) possibly help reduce some of the smoke associated with it having to be mixed at a 24:1 ratio?

 

[ohm116]

Re: Gale 5D10B

Never mind about the oil question, I should have searched before hand I well look for synthetic that is biodegradable, even if it is expensive I probably wont be using it quickly enough to bother me. Heck I still have to build the boat to attach it too

 

[ohm116]

Re: Gale 5D10B

Another thing I was thinking is that the float might not be set right, I didn't touch it personally but who knows what the previous owner did as it looked like a fresh float as well as the impeller.

 

[tmcalavy]

Re: Gale 5D10B

There's little to go wrong with a float, as long as it truly floats. Might be the little needle under the float that lets the gas into the bowl and stops flow when the float comes up. They deteriorate too, and even a small bit of crud will cause problems there.

 

[steelespike]

Re: Gale 5D10B

That float pin has a groove and a retainer locks in at the proper height setting.
Some don't have a groove and you could adjust the float height.
There is no replaceable needle or seat. Normally you would replace the carb body and the float pin(needle)I believe some use something like valve grinding compound to clean up the needle and seat. Don't get carried away.I guess the first thing would be to turn on the gas and see if it leaks.You might tickle the primer pin with your finger to see if the float seems to have a strong floating action.I'll be interested to see what you find and any solution that works as I have a 5D11 with a similar carb I'll be working on.

 

[ohm116]

Re: Gale 5D10B

Well I gave it another run today and it doesn't seem to be leaking now, I think what happened is the float was being sluggish because it took a while for it to come up when I opened the fuel valve. I think I have the controls figured out, not too much different from my model airplanes it seems to like to run the best with the mixture at about 2:30 and it starts with one pull after you shut it off. I was noticing some bubbles around the carb gasket so I well have to try snugging up the nuts a bit on it to see if that fixes it.

 

[steelespike]

Re: Gale 5D10B

Sounds good; hopefully mine will respond as well.Your settings may vary a little in an actual application.

 

[ohm116]

Re: Gale 5D10B

Its like on an RC engine, each time you run it it well want to run in a different place.

 

[ohm116]

Re: Gale 5D10B

I went and ran the motor for my Dad today and the float was having problems again, at first it wouldn't fill the bowl when I first opened it up and I determined it was the tank vent because after I too the cap off fuel started flowing but it was over filling again and then when it was running it would not stay full so I well have to take it apart and play with it.

We also noticed that it needs hotter plugs, tends to bog down after it has been idling a bit. I think the hotter plug is the J4C correct?

 

[tmcalavy]

Re: Gale 5D10B

If I remember correctly, and sometimes I don't, J4C is colder than J6C or J8C...if that's not right someone will be along to correct me.

 

[F_R]

Re: Gale 5D10B

That's right, tm. It probably isn't the plugs anyway. ohm, you have tried adjusting the idle screw on the carburetor, haven't you? It is on the side of the carburetor. I'm sort of afraid to mention it because last time I did, I got into an arguement over what it does. It DOES affect the idle mixture.

Your problem could also be the flooding over. In fact, probably is.

 

[ohm116]

Re: Gale 5D10B

Yeah I was thinking that too after I posted yesterday, I think I should try to get the flooding figured out first and see how it goes from there. If I do need the hotter plugs would it be the J8C then?

 

[tmcalavy]

Re: Gale 5D10B

Yep, if you're going to do a lot of trolling, for example, a hotter plug is often recommended to reduce plug fouling.

 

[steelespike]

Re: Gale 5D10B

Factory manual says standard plug is Champion J6J (J6C)
As suggested don't mess with plugs until you solve the carb.
After carefully adjustng high speed on a boat then adjust the idle mixture
with ( lean rich adj. on the port side of carb). J4C colder J8C hotter.

 

[ohm116]

Re: Gale 5D10B

Well I might have found a boat to stick it on, its a 12ft aluminum sea king one craigslist for $150. I'm going to check it out this morning, they said it had gotten a tear in the right side that was welded up and doesn't leak, I figure if it is not too bad I can massage it out a bit with the hammer and dolly set I have and coat the inside with roll on truck bed liner. Here is a link to the listing.
http://salem.craigslist.org/boa/999213732.html

 

[steelespike]

Re: Gale 5D10B

Yep, if you're going to do a lot of trolling, for example, a hotter plug is often recommended to reduce plug fouling.

I've heard you can open the gap to .035 for trolling.Keep in mind a hotter plug might cause pre ignition at speed.