Gale 5D10B

ohm116

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Dec 10, 2008
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203
Re: Gale 5D10B

Yeah I was reading the factory manual I have and they mention, after following their directions to get the gas fums out, applying 8 - 10 psi in the tank and gently heating the dented area with a torch working from the outside in and to use a wooden hammer to gently persuade the more stubborn dents out. They say the creased dents do not come out easily but I don't intend to make it pristine looking but it would be nice to smooth it out a bit and then maybe use body filler to get it looking nice.

Could I instead of bolting it to the engine take a plate of metal and drill it to match the mounting holes on the tanks and just mount it to that to make it more stable? I would think it would be easier to manipulate that way.
 

ohm116

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Dec 10, 2008
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203
Re: Gale 5D10B

I have a 1/2" thick plate of aluminum with a bunch of holes in it already which I think well work great. I still need a chance to find a piece of steel for the clutch lever/actuator before I can put the lower unit back on too. Oh well things should slow down a bit more now so I should get some more time to work on it now.
 

ohm116

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Dec 10, 2008
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203
Re: Gale 5D10B

I went and adjusted the coil that was not lined up correctly and got the wires tucked in a bit more then installed the flywheel to 45 ft/lbs. I used my inline ignition checker and just turning the flywheel with my hand both plugs look to have a nice strong spark. I also put the impeller back in its housing and removed the broken clutch lever. It actually made a very clean break, see photos, I wish I had a brazing torch, one could probably silver solder the two halves back together.
ClutchLever.jpg

ClutchLever1.jpg


One question, the lower unit has quite a bit of gunk and rust flakes in it, can I just spray it out with carb cleaner and then rinse it with water to get all the crap out before I put it back together?
 

tmcalavy

Rear Admiral
Joined
Aug 29, 2001
Messages
4,005
Re: Gale 5D10B

Flush it with carb cleaner or gas...whichever you have at your disposal, but be safe in doing so. I use carb cleaner, then a nice, clean lint-free rag to clean up LU cases.
 

steelespike

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Apr 26, 2002
Messages
19,069
Re: Gale 5D10B

I went and adjusted the coil that was not lined up correctly and got the wires tucked in a bit more then installed the flywheel to 45 ft/lbs. I used my inline ignition checker and just turning the flywheel with my hand both plugs look to have a nice strong spark. I also put the impeller back in its housing and removed the broken clutch lever. It actually made a very clean break, see photos, I wish I had a brazing torch, one could probably silver solder the two halves back together.
ClutchLever.jpg

ClutchLever1.jpg


One question, the lower unit has quite a bit of gunk and rust flakes in it, can I just spray it out with carb cleaner and then rinse it with water to get all the crap out before I put it back together?
I've had good luck with a product called greased ligtening.Household degreaser.Pretty tame stuff.Allways be carefull with oily rags.
 

ohm116

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Dec 10, 2008
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203
Re: Gale 5D10B

Cool, I have a big can of carb cleaner anyway so I well give that a go, I need to pull the top of the float bowl cover off still and spray it out too. If I find that the float needs replacing could I use balsa instead of cork, I'm thinking it would be easier to work with?
 

ohm116

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Re: Gale 5D10B

I haven't done too much lately but I did get a chance to clean the motor a bit more and I sprayed a bit of carb cleaner around the timing plate base and it is moving better now so I think it was just dirty, I well spray it with a lubricant to keep it moving freely, silicone? I was also able to acquire another shift arm so I can put the lower unit back on sometime and hopefully get it up and running. I was looking at the info plate on the clamp and they mentioned 90 weight hypoid gear oil, I have some 80w90 kicking around, well that work for this motor?
 

tmcalavy

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Aug 29, 2001
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Re: Gale 5D10B

Clean up the gearcase, reassemble it and pressurize the LU/gearcase with a little bit of air...5-7 lbs. psi...and dip it in a bucket of water. Air bubbles will tell you if any of the LU seals are bad. If not, refill with hypoid gear oil as you mentioned. If the seals are leaking, you can put Lubriplate 105 white grease in the LU and it will work fine. I may get hammered for saying that, but it works well...and was the recommendation for earlier motors without true seals and direct drive for many years. Replacing the seals isn't hard, just time and $$ consuming in most cases.
 

ohm116

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Re: Gale 5D10B

The prop shaft seal is only $7 or so as mentioned above and the other seal around the plate is an o-ring, I figure if it leaks changing the prop shaft seal should keep most of the LU oil in. I am going to order one shortly from here just to have on hand anyway because even if it does seal, which I doubt since there was some rust in the LU and no oil, I well have one on hand when it does.
 

Troutrider

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Jan 4, 2009
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Re: Gale 5D10B

Ok a few questions. One, shear pins, I have read that it is a good idea to have one or two on board, are there just generic pins I can get for this motor or I have read that some use brass rod of the appropriate diameter and make a bunch, which would probably be cheaper.

That one reminded me of getting stranded many many years ago far from the truck with my last sheared pin. We had an old solid glass fishing rod on board and kept breaking off little pieces of it to replace the last one 'til we made it back. Seems like it was a 3.5 hp motor. We had to dodge weeds and shallows but it got us back. I've alway's carried a box full since then and never sheared another one. Kind of like an umbrella on a sunny day.

Troutrider
 

ohm116

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Re: Gale 5D10B

Good news and bad news, good news first :D
I took the cover off the float bowl and it was spotless and the cork float looked like cork :D I also got the lower unit put back together.

Bad news: After putting the LU back together the motor wont turn over now. It was turning over when I installed the shaft and impeller housing in the upper section but after sliding the gear case on it wont budge, there is a little play but otherwise it is solid. The prop shaft was a little stiff from cleaning it out and I'm sure not having any oil in it but not that stiff. Do you think it is something that I didn't get put back together properly, everything seemed to line up properly and go in without binding.
 

F_R

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Jul 7, 2006
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28,224
Re: Gale 5D10B

Will it turn if you loosen the 4 bolts holding the gearcase on? The full gearshift models will lock up if the shock absorber is broken. I'll have to look at one of your style in the morning to see if that could happen on that one.
 

ohm116

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Re: Gale 5D10B

Thats the interesting thing, it was turning before the only difference is the new shift lever, I wonder if that is why the lever was broken? I well pull it back apart and see if I can find anything obvious.
 

ohm116

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Re: Gale 5D10B

I loosened the 4 bolts and it did come free, but I am not sure it was that or the fact that I didn't have a gasket in between, I used silicone, I am thinking that might have made a difference, I well cut a new gasket and try that.
 

ohm116

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Re: Gale 5D10B

I have been fiddling with the lower unit on this thing, I got the snap ring from behind the prop out and the plate that was behind that. What I am trying to do it take the drive shaft and clutch mechanism out to inspect an clean it. From the diagrams it looks like the shaft is star shaped on the bottom end and that keys into the gear, is there a retainer of some kind that holds it on, or is it just slipped in there and now from rust not wanting to come out? I have been spraying the bottom end out with wd-40 to hopefully loosen stuff up a bit. The nice thing is me and my Dad have been able to get all the Christmas light crap out of the garage and I have room to bring the motor and stand inside out of the wind and cold :D
 

F_R

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Jul 7, 2006
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28,224
Re: Gale 5D10B

You are correct, the pinion shaft just slides into the pinion gear.
 

ohm116

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203
Re: Gale 5D10B

Thanks, I well just keep soaking it in lube and hopefully it well decide to come out without too much trouble.
 
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