Gale 5D10B

[tmcalavy]

Re: Gale 5D10B

No oil on the taper. If you line the heels of the coils up with the bosses/bases they bolt down to, no need to adjust the coil/flywheel clearance. You'll know if they drag on the flywheel.

 

[ohm116]

Re: Gale 5D10B

Cool thanks, I well probably change the coils out tomorrow.

 

[ohm116]

Re: Gale 5D10B

Well just for grins I decided to add up what I have in the motor so far So far I have $149.16 into it including the $45 I spent to buy it originally so even if I buy another tank that isn't dented, paint it and get some reproduction decals for it it well be a lot less then a new one. That and nothing looks better then a 50's era outboard

 

[ohm116]

Re: Gale 5D10B

Ok a few questions. One, shear pins, I have read that it is a good idea to have one or two on board, are there just generic pins I can get for this motor or I have read that some use brass rod of the appropriate diameter and make a bunch, which would probably be cheaper. Two, the timing plate is rather stiff on my engine, moves smoothly but it is stiff to the point of needing two hands to move it, one on the tiller and one on the control knob. Should I try to oil it or is there a tension screw I can adjust. Finally third, if I find out that my shaft seal in the lower unit is bad, is it still possible to get a new one since it uses the same lower unit as a Johnson TN.

Thanks again all
Nathan

PS: I got the new coils, points and condensers in, my Dad did one side and I did the other so it was a nice learning experience on how to set points

 

[F_R]

Re: Gale 5D10B

That motor has a shock absorber in the lower unit, which absorbs impacts from striking underwater objects. The shock absorber protects the gears and stuff, so a "shear" pin is not used. What is used though is a "drive" pin. A drive pin is made of stainless steel and is not intended to shear. If you put a brass shear pin in there, you will just cause yourself a lot of agrivation when you have to change it everytime you touch an underwater snag.

The throttle arm should have enough friction to hold it in place, but not be so excessive that it is a pain. Remove the armature plate and clean it and the mounting rings and relube sparingly with a thin smear of EP grease. Easy does it on the grease...to much and it will splatter out and foul the breaker points.

The seals are the same as a TN. Drive shaft seal is 302302 and is about 20 bucks!! Prop shaft seal is 321788 (Sierra 18-2032), around $7. Get the Sierra one right here at iboats at the best price you will find anywhere. There is no Sierra interchange for the 302302. I found a way around that by using the much more reasonably priced Johnson CD seal and modifying the bearing plate to accept it. But that is beyond your abilities unless you just happen to have a metal lathe.

 

[ohm116]

Re: Gale 5D10B

As mentioned my Dad is a machinist, we do have a metal lathe as well as a milling machine, drill press, grinder, welder, the list goes one so I would just need to figure out what would have to be done and find some time to do it. The biggest thing I am worried about is it keeping the oil in the lower unit and not leaving a nice oil slick on the lake. Would the propshaft seal be the one to get? I am mildly confused to how it all works, it seems there is no seal behind the prop to keep water from getting behind it. I am going to go searching for some diagrams.

 

[ohm116]

Re: Gale 5D10B

Forgot about the plate behind the prop. I take it that is where the prop shaft seal goes? If so I well probably order one and stick it in for good measure, as I mentioned I just want to make sure the oil stays in the lower unit.

 

[ohm116]

Re: Gale 5D10B

I finally got the new plugs in and the new terminals on the wires, froze my fingers off too, its cold here. I took a flash light and had a look inside the cylinders and they look good no gouges or lines that I could see and the tops of the pistons look good as well. The previous owner didn't have the plugs down tight and so after putting the new ones in it has real good compression now.

 

[steelespike]

Re: Gale 5D10B

I have a 57 Gale service manual there is a exploded view of your gearcase assembly I can attempt to email to you.

 

[ohm116]

Re: Gale 5D10B

That would be cool, I well PM you with my address. Hopefully the manual I picked up ebay shows up soon but then again I have not been working on it too much because of the cold and I have been busy with other things. I still need to track down some steel for the clutch lever/arm that is broken, I have some copper the right size but that is going to be way too soft for that part. The autoparts store locally doesn't have the seal in its warehouse so I well have to order it from here or elsewhere on the web, the parts store wanted $8 for shipping a $7 part Also should there be a seal in the top of the water pump housing?

As you mentioned the exploded diagram well be helpful.
Thanks
Nathan

 

[ohm116]

Re: Gale 5D10B

I just found the sierra prop shaft seal in the parts dept? Also there is a Mallory 9-76210 listed as a replacement for the 321788 which is about $5, I take it it wouldn't matter which I got.

 

[steelespike]

Re: Gale 5D10B

That would be cool, I well PM you with my address. Hopefully the manual I picked up ebay shows up soon but then again I have not been working on it too much because of the cold and I have been busy with other things. I still need to track down some steel for the clutch lever/arm that is broken, I have some copper the right size but that is going to be way too soft for that part. The autoparts store locally doesn't have the seal in its warehouse so I well have to order it from here or elsewhere on the web, the parts store wanted $8 for shipping a $7 part Also should there be a seal in the top of the water pump housing?

As you mentioned the exploded diagram well be helpful.
Thanks
Nathan

I didn't get your address in your pm.

 

[ohm116]

Re: Gale 5D10B

I think I might have forgotten it Its cool anyway my factory service manual came today and it is chock full of diagrams and info

 

[ohm116]

Re: Gale 5D10B

I took some photos of the ignition plate yesterday and though I would post them, as if no one had never see it before

I'm pretty sure I got it all wired up right, green wire and condenser wire going to the points and black wire from coil to ground.

Also there is a couple of spots of rust on the crank taper, should I just use some 0000 steel wool to clean that off?

 

[steelespike]

Re: Gale 5D10B

sure just clean it up any reasonable abrasive.In the pic it looks like the armature on the right isn't quite lined up with the boss.?

 

[tmcalavy]

Re: Gale 5D10B

Also make sure all the wires are not too "tall." The coil ground wires for instance need to lay flat along the coil lamination and the condensor wires should not stick up past the height of where all the wires connect to the points...otherwise the flywheel will chew them up. Nice little Gale. I was under the flywheel of a 56 Lark 30hp today, replacing coils/plug wires/condensors, etc. to get the old sleeper running again. Plumbing a Mikuni fuel pump comes tomorrow or Christmas Day. What does the tank and bottom side cowls look like? I'm partial to the Sea King styling from that era.

 

[ohm116]

Re: Gale 5D10B

Yeah I noticed the coil not lining up that well when I was looking at the photo, I well adjust them and get the wires tucked in a bit more before reinstalling the flywheel.
Here is an old advertisement from ebay of my engine, mine is a little more worn though. I would like to try and remove the dents in the tank so I can repaint it and get a set for decals for it that I have found online.
http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u18/whitemtnhowdy/24/38395.jpg

 

[ohm116]

Re: Gale 5D10B

Here are a few pics of the tank and one of the side panels.

This one shows the dents in the front? of the tank.

Here is the one in the back of the tank which I can probably get out with a hook tool.

One with the recoil off the top.

And the side cover, upside down in this photo, as I mentioned it is a bit scraped up It has obviously seen the back of a truck on numerous occasions.

 

[tmcalavy]

Re: Gale 5D10B

Hmmm, if you've got to have a pristine tank...put a wanted ad for one in the classifieds at www.aomci.org
Those front dents in the tank are gonna be hard to get out...dents are one thing, but dents with creases are tough. Check the chapters page at that site, too. There may be a chapter/club near you with folks that can help get those dents out or find a nice replacement tank. Be careful though...old motors will start following you home, like cats.

 

[cc67]

Re: Gale 5D10B

I had good luck getting the dents out of the tank on my 58 3hp Sea King using compressed air. I put the air chuck in the fuel shutoff petcock and gave it a little at a time. Popped'em right out. Make sure your tank is installed on the motor or it will swell like a balloon. Don't ask, I know.

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