Furst boat and first restoration project, have some questions.

Dylan Beaudry

Seaman
Joined
Apr 12, 2023
Messages
54
Hey y'all. I'm new to the boat world, and to the restoration world, but i came across a 1972 StarCraft Holiday 14 with a '78 Johnson seahorse 35hp outboard. That's all I know about it. I got it for 200 bucks, including the trailer.IMG_20230408_133606.jpg
IMG_20230408_123232.jpg
IMG_20230408_123211.jpgIt has no leaks, engine starts and ran fine, has electric starter and electric choke. Transom is in decent shape, too. I don't know how I got this deal, must've been witchcraft or alchemy because a few days later I tore a muscle in my back, almost as if the universe was equalling out my luck because there was an imbalance.

Anyway, Enough of the rambling. I have some questions about these boats.

First off, for this era of StarCraft, what bumper trim did they use? Is there a standard or name for it? It's kinda beat up and the person I bought it from cranked a half ton ratchet strap over the boat to keep it to the trailer but that left a permanent dent in the trim after 2 years of it being stored. So I'd like to replace it.

Secondly, I'd like to paint it but I don't want to spend days stripping it down with a scraper. Has anyone got other methods? Like stripper and a power washer? Or just sanding it all with 180 and painting over that? I don't plan on having it done professionally, this is a $200 boat and Im budgeting the whole restoration to 1,000.

Lastly, is there any additional things I should add to this old boat, (assuming i have spare budget after the resto) that could modernize it, like trim plates, bilge pump, different gas tank?
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
37,829
Model # of the motor ?-----And is the transom 15" high or 20" high ?
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
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Jul 23, 2011
Messages
49,574
check the transom, floor, and foam. replace as needed

dont worry about the rub rail. it will come back. once you price 50 feet of rub-rail insert, you may want to save your money for other things

the transom strap is required on the trailer

simply buff the paint. if that doesnt work, then scuff with 180 and repaint. however this should be lower on the list than the transom, floor and foam.

hope you had the motor in the water when you ran it. if not, you toasted the water pump

wetsand (3000 grit and higher) and buff the windshield to remove the haze
 

RMClark

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jul 19, 2020
Messages
94
That's a cool looking old boat. As Scott and racerone rightly pointed out, look for structural and basic outboard mechanical issues first. There are a ton of threads on this forum about the specific items mentioned.

I would also point you to a specific YouTube channel for basic mechanicals like that impeller. Dangar Marine is the channel and the host, Stu, lives in Australia. He has a good way of simplifying things and showing how those actions are done. Here's a link to his Johnson 30HP Playlist. I think you'll find that the Johnson 30HP is very similar to your 35HP. There's even a video specific to changing the impeller (water pump).

Good luck.
 

Dylan Beaudry

Seaman
Joined
Apr 12, 2023
Messages
54
check the transom, floor, and foam. replace as needed


dont worry about the rub rail. it will come back. once you price 50 feet of rub-rail insert, you may want to save your money for other things
So that's what they're called, is it a common fitment or a proprietary rail?
the transom strap is required on the trailer
I was thinking of using actual transom straps on the back instead of a towing strap aross the top anyhow.
"hope you had the motor in the water when you ran it."

Hooked up the hose to one of those pump clamps. No worries 👍
 

Dylan Beaudry

Seaman
Joined
Apr 12, 2023
Messages
54
Model # of the motor ?-----And is the transom 15" high or 20" high ?
The model number is nowhere to be seen and I'd guess the full length of the transom is 15 and some change. It goes in beyond the floor a bit so couldn't get a full measure with it assembled . 20" for sure if you include the edges that curve upwards.
 

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
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How high is the transom where the motor mounts?----Post picture showing motor from the side.----With motor in running position.
 

Dylan Beaudry

Seaman
Joined
Apr 12, 2023
Messages
54
How high is the transom where the motor mounts?----Post picture showing motor from the side.----With motor in running position.
I'll get some more pics this weekend after I pick it up from SignPro. They're replicating the StarCraft logo and having a name stencil cut for me right now. Named it "Lady Kriller"
 

ScottinAZ

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 25, 2009
Messages
831
Any specific reason? I do have a new one that came with the boat but the one currently on it doesn't look too bad.

impellers are a maintenance item, generally regarded as once a year/every second year service items. nothing will ruin your day (and motor) faster than an impeller going tits up at an inopportune time. They are easy to change, so not really worth NOT doing.
 

RMClark

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jul 19, 2020
Messages
94
Any specific reason? I do have a new one that came with the boat but the one currently on it doesn't look too bad.
Any idea how old the existing impeller is? How flexible?

I presume from your comment that you had the lower unit apart and looked at the impeller. If I had the lower unit off far enough to have the impeller visible, I would have replaced it before I put it back together.

If that old impeller starts breaking up and the water flow carries impeller debris into the block, it could be a real mess to put right.

I don't know the recommended life span of an impeller from OMC's (Johnson manufacturer, back when they still made them) point of view. However, Mercury recommends a new impeller every three years for my outboard. I'll follow that manufacturer recommendation; impellers are not expensive.
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 28, 2013
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It has been proven many times to me that folks know very little about maintaining their motors.----They invent new ways to destroy them almost every day.----Impellers are cheap and must be replaced on a regular basis.-----Many motors do not have overtemperature warning or shutdown feature.----They happily run until they are NOT happy anymore.
 

airshot

Vice Admiral
Joined
Jul 22, 2008
Messages
5,085
Neat looking boat...take your time and restore it the right way!! Being a Starcraft aluminum hull you are off to a good start...in my experience those motors are pretty solid....you did good !!!
 

Dylan Beaudry

Seaman
Joined
Apr 12, 2023
Messages
54
Any idea how old the existing impeller is? How flexible?

I presume from your comment that you had the lower unit apart and looked at the impeller. If I had the lower unit off far enough to have the impeller visible, I would have replaced it before I put it back together.

If that old impeller starts breaking up and the water flow carries impeller debris into the block, it could be a real mess to put right.

I don't know the recommended life span of an impeller from OMC's (Johnson manufacturer, back when they still made them) point of view. However, Mercury recommends a new impeller every three years for my outboard. I'll follow that manufacturer recommendation; impellers are not expensive.
The condition of the impeller in direct comparison to the replacement is pretty decent. I think the motor may not have seen consistent use as it's more sun faded than it is corroded. My father is on board with the project too and estamated a high end of 300 running hours. The engine and lower end needed and oil flush and re-grease since most of the grease was dry and the oil might as well be flushed while it's open. The pressure of the water coming out the exit was decent, and got better as we ran it. I don't know a whole lot about boats but as a two stroke appreciator, everything looked good, if not a little neglected. I have my old man at my side too, and he helped me disassemble the lower end and taught me the basics of what makes a boat engine tick. As far as using the replacement goes, I think I'll leave it as one until I need it or until the next time the lower is dropped.
 

Dylan Beaudry

Seaman
Joined
Apr 12, 2023
Messages
54
Any idea how old the existing impeller is? How flexible?

I presume from your comment that you had the lower unit apart and looked at the impeller. If I had the lower unit off far enough to have the impeller visible, I would have replaced it before I put it back together.

If that old impeller starts breaking up and the water flow carries impeller debris into the block, it could be a real mess to put right.

I don't know the recommended life span of an impeller from OMC's (Johnson manufacturer, back when they still made them) point of view. However, Mercury recommends a new impeller every three years for my outboard. I'll follow that manufacturer recommendation; impellers are not expensive.
The condition of the impeller in direct comparison to the replacement is pretty decent. I think the motor may not have seen consistent use as it's more sun faded than it is corroded. My father is on board with the project too and estamated a high end of 300 running hours. The engine and lower end needed and oil flush and re-grease since most of the grease was dry and the oil might as well be flushed while it's open. The pressure of the water coming out the exit was decent, and got better as we ran it. I don't know a whole lot about boats but as a two stroke appreciator, everything looked good, if not a little neglected. I have my old man at my side too, and he helped me disassemble the lower end and taught me the basics of what makes a boat engine tick. As far as using the replacement goes, I think I'll leave it as one until I need it or until the next time the lower is dropped.
 

Dylan Beaudry

Seaman
Joined
Apr 12, 2023
Messages
54
Test the overheat warning horn.
It doesn't have one I think. It's a 2 stroke from the 70s. All analog. Some diagrams showed a wire pinouts on some of them but either I don't have that model or it was removed some time in the last 30+ years. Boat doesn't have a single guage on it either. We did put a tank and some change through it after flushing the oil and reapplying grease and nothing seemed to be burning or boiling and the pump was running well
 

Dylan Beaudry

Seaman
Joined
Apr 12, 2023
Messages
54
Any idea how old the existing impeller is? How flexible?

I presume from your comment that you had the lower unit apart and looked at the impeller. If I had the lower unit off far enough to have the impeller visible, I would have replaced it before I put it back together.

If that old impeller starts breaking up and the water flow carries impeller debris into the block, it could be a real mess to put right.

I don't know the recommended life span of an impeller from OMC's (Johnson manufacturer, back when they still made them) point of view. However, Mercury recommends a new impeller every three years for my outboard. I'll follow that manufacturer recommendation; impellers are not expensive.
Oh almost forgot, the rubber on the impeller is still flexible, not as soft as the new one, that's a given, but it isn't cracked or split if that's what you're asking. The tires though... They might need to go.
 

matt167

Rear Admiral
Joined
Sep 27, 2012
Messages
4,151
If that impeller fails and rips apart out on the lake, your going to burn it up. If you have actually had it apart you should have just changed it. It’s cheap insurance. Outboards aren’t cheap

I have and restored the same boat. It took me all of a month of weekends for new carpet, deck and seats. Mine was kinda garbaged up for someone’s fishing boat with wooden benches. Mine now runs a 2020 DF25A Suzuki… also I put a new trailer under mine and I strap it exactly the same. It’s very common and a non issue
 
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