fuel pump gets hot

iCraft'77

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Hello there, and thanks y'all in advance for your kind help.
My 2011 Etec 75's fuel pump feels very hot to the touch.
It's the first time I touch it, so I am not sure of how hot it gets. I just want to be sure it is not damaged.
This engine has not run for about 4 to 5 years.
Is there a need for cleaning such fuel pump? or should I replace it?
Thanks
 

Crosbyman

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suggest you consult the EOB Etec owner'S board where ETECs are the only topic :)

you should have/run EV diagnostics to dump any trouble codes related to the pump.
EV diagnostics is essential if you plan to service a ETEC

the VST fuel pump has a small screen at the bottom which could be clogged but
some times more critical is the small conical fuilter on the return fuel manifold to the VST which may be plugged up with debris of fuel line .
it can be cleaned or replaced but removal is dicy if you break the barb on the VST it is $$$$$


you don't say if motor runs at all or not... injectors could be plugged up
and in need of professional cleaning

suggest you check "you tubes" get the manual if you don't have it. (free down load)
 
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iCraft'77

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Thanks Crosbyman. Great video.
I started the engine and it runs apparently ok. It worked fine and after a few minutes I noticed the hot fuel pump(motor)
There is no visible corrosion on the outside of the pump itself
I will check the pressure and run a diagnostic test to see what transpire before I proceed to open the pump.
Thanks a lot(y)
 
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Crosbyman

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well the diagnostic would give you info of any detected anomalies on the pump (mostly electrical stuff) but we know the pump is running. IF you have EV diag. just check for any current active codes . Stored (past) codes may tell you about the engine's past life problems ! see link below

not to many detailed codes on the pump itself
1706023496861.png
up to you but you could at least check the pump base inlet filter . fuel pressure on injectors, vst return filter etc...

the pump may be failing and some have more or less cleared them off by applying burst forward and reverse 12v /grd while soaking some oil in the pump itself. could have been damaged by water in the fuel..
hopefully you have a10 micron water seperator filter on the inlet fuel line. If not you should.. ETECs needs clean fuel. !!

try some searches on the EOB ... lots of stores cases on all issues affecting ETECs
post a question on EOB... experts on ETECs can help out with suggestions

 
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Crosbyman

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remember the pump works on PULSED grounds from the emm ( this simulates a 12v from the system's 55 VDDC supply by chopping it down in short bursts ).

If you run it on a solid 12v battery...... keep the runs short. Backflusing may clear any crud from the inlet base filter in the picture . Oiling will lubricate the pump innards and possibly restore it.

"His advice was to use XD30 if adding it your fuel at 200:1, as he has found it has better anti-corrosion results than XD50 or XD100. "


As a precaution mentionned on the EOB... is a known tip called "Oly's brew" ....it basically involves the addition of some oil in the fuel tank at a very small ratio (ex 200/1) which will not cause any problems while its oils the injectors mecanical components and... the high pressure pump. :)

His advice was to use XD30 if adding it your fuel at 200:1, as he has found it has better anti-corrosion results than XD50 or XD100.

Evinrude 2+4D and EV engine cleaner is a good habit especially before season lay-away . XD-100 oil with carbon guard takes care of carbon build ups.
 
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iCraft'77

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Have been busy. Today I will connect the fuel pressure gauge to the pump and see what transpires.
Thanks for your support. ✌️
 

Crosbyman

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normal fuel flow cools the pump body so suspect restrictions ..typically the return filter in the video at minute 1:38 in the video can be clogged causing a high pressure condition ..

see comment on a EOB case from 2019
1706628210958.png
 
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iCraft'77

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well...the pump appears to be frozen. There was no pressure reading or priming sound.
I applied short bursts of 12v directly to the pump terminals, inverting polarity, and all I could hear a low "tick" each time.
There is a heavy gunk smell around the pump. It reminded me when I open an old lawn mower carb for servicing.
I believe I should take the pump apart and clean it at this point
 

Crosbyman

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Cleanning it sure looks like the only option.

soak soak soak with a solvent and hopefully some movement will show up.
IF the inner electrical coil was not damaged (fried) it may be salvageable.

Being so crudded may indicated a need to service the VST and get your injectors serviced to prevent any damage to the powerhead. IT is a good ivestment at this point.

At the very least run some Evinrude engine cleaner if you do get he pump going.

OEM pumps are probably costly but if you look around other pumps can be fitted in.

one option if I recall is to changethe whole VST

I strongly recommend consulting with the folks on the EOB for further info on specific parts and procedure to get you going.

see link to replace 5009033 VST


Amazon has pumps..(some good some bad comments to !) up to you !
1706715733841.png
 
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iCraft'77

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Thanks a lot! This is very valuable info for me Crosbyman.
I have been looking on Youtube for instructions on how to remove pump and reservoir from the engine, but could not find it.
 
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Crosbyman

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I consulted the Etec owner'S board and learn that the fuel pressure issues wont show on the EV diagnostic.

The only sensor for the HP pump is a current sensor monitored by the EMM... it can detect OPEN (no current) SHORT (excessive current). there is no fuel pressure sensor)

btw.. replacement pumps non oem can....and have generated fault codes due the the pump current load not meeting EMM expectations....something to consider :unsure:

1706725612963.png
this is typical of other components where mecanical failure is the cause.
ex: a stuck injector will not be reported by the EMM but an open or shorted one will be.
1706725712376.png
TPS and CPS are monitored andwill generate fault codes.
 

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iCraft'77

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Ok.
This is what I found:
-The vapor separator is in great shape. No signs of rust of moist inside, but one of the water ports is visibly corroded and is missing some material.(pic) I found rust at the base of the reservoir and inside the 4 screw's threats(pic). Not a lot .
-The pumps, appart for being frozen is cracked on the upper plastic end. Right the high pressure testing valve connects to the canister.(pic)
So, new pump it is.
-The high pressure filter was dirty but not critical.(pic)

Does anyone know the little filter part number?
Thanks guys. I am seeing progress.
 

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iCraft'77

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The only sensor for the HP pump is a current sensor monitored by the EMM... it can detect OPEN (no current) SHORT (excessive current). there is no fuel pressure sensor)

btw.. replacement pumps non oem can....and have generated fault codes due the the pump current load not meeting EMM expectations....something to consider :unsure:

View attachment 393959
this is typical of other components where mecanical failure is the cause.
ex: a stuck injector will not be reported by the EMM but an open or shorted one will be.
View attachment 393960
TPS and CPS are monitored andwill generate fault codes.
Is that Quantum showed above OEM?
 

Crosbyman

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I can't vouch on quality of the pump illustrated just user comments on AMAZON can guide your final choice .......consult EOB folks

as to the small filter in the vst it can be cleaned with carb cleaner and air blown dry .....new one is just a few $$$ depending on the dealer . check here with IBOATS folks
1706753928793.png

at least you are progressing
 
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