Fixing Up Boat Help

NiteShadow

Cadet
Joined
Jan 15, 2021
Messages
11
Hello,

I'm hoping some of you here can help me out. I've never owned a boat and know absolutely nothing about boats but always wanted one for fishing. I found someone near where I live selling a boat for $1,000 and said it hasn't been used in a couple of years so it needs a new battery and the old fuel drained out. I figured this could be a good way to dip my toes into getting a boat without spending to much at first. I also figured if I couldn't get it to run I could always turn around and sell if for what I paid for it if not maybe a little more since I got a new battery for it. I would then turn around and put that money into upgrading to a boat that I know runs.
I bought a battery and pulled the old fuel out (all 17 gallons of it) and put 5 gallons of fresh gas with some seafoam. When I turned the key the belts would start to move but it nothing else would happen. I noticed some smoke coming out of the back and found out that the positive battery terminal got so hot it melted the outer coating. I replaced that cable and as I was doing that I noticed some other broken and lose wires. I believe there was a cat living in the boat because behind the seat where the battery was there was a lot of old cat business and there was a lot of cat fur all over the place so I'm thinking as the cat would walk around it must have broken some wires.
I was able to get the engine to start today so that is some progress. I'm not getting any response on the trim or lowering and raising the outdrive. I'm guessing the issue is with some to these wires that aren't connected and I have no idea where they go so I'm hoping someone will be able to point me in the right direction. I don't really want to take it to a shop and have it looked at because if its going to cost to much I will just try to sell it and have it be a project for someone who knows more about it and I will take that money and put it into a boat that I know runs already. Let me know any thoughts you guys have and if you think I would be better off trying to sell it and get something that doesn't need as much work. Any opinion and help is greatly appreciated. I have attached some pictures with a little description underneath and the questions I have about it.
Boat.jpg
This is the boat the paper work says it is a 1980 genmarine. The plate says it is General Marine Co Ranger. I wasn't able to find anything out about the boat. From what I could find it looks like in the 80s they had a lot of cookie cutter boats like this
Engine.jpg
This is the engine. I was told it is a Chevy V8 from the research I've done I'm guessing it is a GM V8 which is the same thing anyway
Outdrive Side View.jpgPower Cord Wires.jpg
I have no idea where these wires go. They are connected to what looks like a power cord that as far as I can tell looks like it goes back into the outdrive. From that spot it looks like another end comes out and goes to the trim motor
Other power plug looking cord that came from outdrive and hooks into the trim pump.jpg
This is the other end of the power cord looking cord that looks like it comes from the outdrive. It looks like it is tied into the trim motor
Broken Wire.jpg
I can't figure out where this wire goes. The one end of the splice has wire ends sticking out making me think it was ripped of from somewhere
Purple Wire.jpg
This Purple wire has a butt splice on it but I can't see any wire near it that it connected to so I have no idea what is supposed to connect to it.
Wires on top of engine.jpg
I have no idea where these wires are supposed to go. The black one was disconnected and I assumed it went to the back light wire which was lose and black so i put a splice on it and connected it.
Switches.jpg
I don't know anything about boats. What do these three switches next to the ignition do? I found out that the furthest left one next to the ignition turns on what I believe is the water pump, I don't know what the middle one does. The black one on the right is a three position switch, I'm assuming this is for the trim? or lowering and raising the outdrive same thing right?
Water Pump.jpg
I'm guessing this is a water pump for pumping out water that makes it into the boat
Trim Pump.jpg
This is the trim pump correct? the white tube was broken off. I was able to cut it and re-attach it.
 

dwco5051

Commander
Joined
Sep 14, 2008
Messages
2,326
Before you spend one more cent you should find someone who know something about boats to check it for wood rot in the floor, stringers, and transom. To go any farther would be the same as rewiring and old car with a rusted out frame. If I was asked how much to check out the wiring and straighten it up I would say maybe 500 bucks, let me look at it first. As soon as I would see those wire nuts and non marine connectors the previous owner used my answer would be a thousand plus materials.

It is possible that you have a diamond in the rough just looking at the picture, if you were able to do all the wiring, upholstery, engine work if needed, rebuild outdrive if needed but with little knowledge of boats if you can sell it for what you paid for it throw in the battery and consider that a learning experience.

Your last picture is the blower for the engine compartment ventilation system to remove gas fumes and prevent explosion or fire.
 

poconojoe

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Sep 10, 2010
Messages
1,966
Looks like you have your hands full with that project.
Too many things need fixing and you have a lot to learn in order to safely get on the water.

Anyway, you came to the right place for help. There are a bunch of knowledgeable people here willing to help out.

I suggest you browse around here to learn as much as you can before you dive too deep into what may or may not be a lost cause.

Who knows, maybe it is a diamond in the rough. I would assess the condition of the boat's structure first before doing anything.

Wiring needs to be tinned marine grade. Connections must be marine grade as well.

The bilge blower system needs to function properly to vent combustible gasses before starting the engine. That's probably one of those switches.

The bilge pump should be tested. That's probably another one of those switches.

Lighting has to be checked. That might be another one of those switches.

There's so much to learn. Safety is paramount when you're on the water. If there's a fire, there's nowhere to run. If there's a leak, that's obviously a safety issue.

You need to check the outdrive bellows for cracks. That can very quickly sink your boat.
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
36,032
Agreed-----Do a complete evaluation BEFORE spending any beer tokens.------Too often we see folks with a nice paint / new carpeting / redone seats.-----Then find out that the transom and stringers are rotten.----Or water logged foam under the floor.
 

NiteShadow

Cadet
Joined
Jan 15, 2021
Messages
11
Thanks everyone for your advice! It sounds like my best bet would be to try selling it to someone who wants a project and then taking that money and put it towards a boat that I know works.
 

Grub54891

Vice Admiral
Joined
Jun 17, 2012
Messages
5,908
If you have someone in the area that has some time on their hands, and knows a bit about mercruiser's it would be helpful to have them take a look. Jumping into an i/o right off the bat is a bit intimidating. Most of what I am seeing is almost easy for me, but you have to know what does what. If you want to get into boating it might be best to start with an outboard that you know runs well. Just something to think about.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
47,296
buying a used boat for cheap is like buying a rusted hulk from a junk yard and trying to make it a daily driver.

remember, the prior owner quit running the boat for a reason. the dash looks like it has sat outside in the elements for at least 20 years

assume the transom, stringers and floor are completely shot.

the wiring will cost about $500
blower, bilge pump, hoses, etc. about $300
the hull restoration about $3000
interior restoration about $2000
new alternator and other things that are frozen $300 (the reason the belts were smoking)
impeller and bellows kit $200
incidentals $200
bearings and grease for the trailer $100
Misc other items (about $1000)

and after all that, you have an early '80 tri-hull that is worth $1500-$2500 if its in good running condition.

the motor appears to have been replaced with a later motor - Perimeter bolt valve covers came out in 1986. check the block casting numbers to be certain.

if you cant sell it whole, pull the motor and drive out of it, sell the motor for $400, sell the drive for $400, sell the old log manifolds for $50 and sell the trailer for $300
 

gm280

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
14,585
My $0.02 cents worth. Any boat, and I do mean any boat, that you will buy that is in that same price range or even triple that price range IS going to have a lot of work needed before enjoying any fishing experience in it. Unless you educate yourself about boats in general, looks are always deceiving at best. Having an engine crank and run is mere nothing when looking for a used boat to buy. Boat ROT! And so many times that rot is covered over where you don't know about it until you've purchased it. The transom, stringers, bulkheads and floor need to be looked at very closely to help find such rot.
You are certainly not the first person to buy without understanding boats. But if you are ever going to learn, now is the time. You can keep what you have and start educating yourself and work from there. That's how most of us started out. We all had amazing dreams of buying a used boat for cheap and cleaning it up, only to find rot that had to be replaced. Some did just that, while others got out of the buying used boats and moved on...
I would drill inspection holes (1/4" or so) close to the bottom of the transom from the inside close to the hull, but certainly not all the way through. If you get dry light-colored shavings out, you are good to go. However, if you get wet, or damp, dark colored shaving out, that transom is shot and absolutely needs replaced. Same with the stringer, bulkheads and flooring. If you, by some magical one-in-a-million chance do have a solid dry wood boat, plug those drilled holes with some epoxy or the like, and clean it up and let us know how the fishing was... JMHO
 

calwldlif

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 16, 2002
Messages
348
General Marine was a southern cal builder that Used Ranger as their model name.
 

Sprig

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 2, 2016
Messages
571
Especially a newby boat guy should never ever buy an old fiberglass boat. You may as well take the money and burn it. The cheaper an old boat like that is the more it will ultimately cost you. If I was in your position I wouldn’t put a penny into that boat. Sell it for what ever you can get for it even if less than what you paid. That old of a boat and poorly maintained I can about guarantee there are rotten stringers in the hull and probably saturated floatation. To get that boat in shape you are looking at thousands of dollars and hundreds of your man hours.
 

skuhleman

Seaman
Joined
May 26, 2011
Messages
60
While I understand where everyone is coming from... I'm gonna say look it over all the way and decide then. The guy just wants something he can float in and fish from. So I'm gonna say just roll with it. Keep it ugly, put a couple bucks making it run and use the thing. It will get you to the fishing hole.

I do understand the stinger and transom concerns. But my family has had some pretty rotten boats over the years when I was a kid. I'm certain stingers and transom were rotten in some of them. Grandparents threw a piece of plywood on the floor and we used it. It got us out on the water and as kids we were thrilled even though it was a complete POS.

I'm sure I'll get flamed for this, but screw it.
To find something that won't need stringers and a transom your gonna be in the $5k+ range. And even then if its older it probably needs all that too.
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
36,032
A lot of it depends on where you are going.----A small lake or river with 20 boats nearby.----Middle of the summer in warm water.--------There is a sailboat race going on right now----Vendee Globe------These guys and gals are going around the world.----Using 60 foot " state of the art " racing sailboats.------Single handed.------No assistance allowed.-----One sailor actually only has one hand to use.---Up to 30' waves at POINT NEMO.---A boat in poor condition , rotten structure would not survive the test.-----So yes in a pond the boat in post #1 would be ok.----I would not take a boat like it out in my lake without a full inspection / redo. !!!
 

skuhleman

Seaman
Joined
May 26, 2011
Messages
60
A lot of it depends on where you are going.----A small lake or river with 20 boats nearby.----Middle of the summer in warm water.--------There is a sailboat race going on right now----Vendee Globe------These guys and gals are going around the world.----Using 60 foot " state of the art " racing sailboats.------Single handed.------No assistance allowed.-----One sailor actually only has one hand to use.---Up to 30' waves at POINT NEMO.---A boat in poor condition , rotten structure would not survive the test.-----So yes in a pond the boat in post #1 would be ok.----I would not take a boat like it out in my lake without a full inspection / redo. !!!
Hahaha I wouldn't take that boat in 30ft waves when it was brand new!
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
36,032
Well ---I have seen boats go out into the lake where I live.---Sad that boat do not require a safety certificate ( in my area ) like cars do at time of sale.-------Sad that folks do not need any level of competency to judge whether it is safe to do so.-----Not 30 ft waves but certainly up to 6 ft can develop in a hurry.------Even kids with them that have trust in mom and dad.----When things go wrong in cold water , they go wrong in a hurry.----The boat in post #1 here belongs on a pond / small lake in the " as found " condition.
 

skuhleman

Seaman
Joined
May 26, 2011
Messages
60
Well ---I have seen boats go out into the lake where I live.---Sad that boat do not require a safety certificate ( in my area ) like cars do at time of sale.-------Sad that folks do not need any level of competency to judge whether it is safe to do so.-----Not 30 ft waves but certainly up to 6 ft can develop in a hurry.------Even kids with them that have trust in mom and dad.----When things go wrong in cold water , they go wrong in a hurry.----The boat in post #1 here belongs on a pond / small lake in the " as found " condition.
Oh I agree. Yea here in Texas we don't really have much of a problem with that. But in its current condition, I would have no problem toodling around a decent lake in good weather, providing the engine will get me back home.

My uncle's sea ray is completely rotted out now, but a couple years ago the floor got soft. I slapped a piece of plywood down and finished out the season. It is now waiting for the engine to be pulled then scrapped... it's that far gone now. But I have also restored 2 boats properly, and don't feel like going through that ordeal again.
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
36,032
Agreed----I am doing a 17 ft boat now.------Good thing I dont want to keep track of the hours and beer tokens going into the project.
 

calwldlif

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 16, 2002
Messages
348
I believe that company used foam for structural vs stringers.
Gas tanks were foamed in and corroded.
the company had hard times in the mid 70's and cut back on material strengths. Maybe by 80's they did not scrimp?

The trihull design makes for a lake boat.

hope it is sealed and the foam is dry.
 

NiteShadow

Cadet
Joined
Jan 15, 2021
Messages
11
Thanks for all of your replies and advice! I do have the engine running well now. But like some of you have said that doesn't mean much. I would only be taking it on smaller lakes. There aren't very many big lakes around where I am. I would fill okay about giving it a try if I could get the trim to work but so far no luck. My brother in law says I don't need it and I can just manually raise it and lower it (right now the only thing holding it up is a tie down.) But as Skuhleman said as long as the engine is reliable enough to go out and bring me back it maybe okay for a season. If I do just decide it's to much of a project for me (which I am leaning towards) I will try to sell it for what I paid for it if not a little more, I would then use that money as a down payment or something towards a boat I know will last some time. I know I wouldn't be able to buy anything very good for $1,500 or even $3,000. I would love to buy new but I just can't see the value in spending $20k on a boat I will take out a few times a year so I'm hoping I will be able to find something decent in the $5k to $10k range that can at least fit 4 people 6 preferably. Basically if I can get into something decent and keep a monthly payment below or close to $100 I would be happy.
 

skuhleman

Seaman
Joined
May 26, 2011
Messages
60
Honestly if your trying to fit 4-6 people and fish with that many, I would pickup a older pontoon. You can get a decent one in that price range. Just make sure the deck isn't rotted, and the toons don't take on water. It might not be pretty though.

As for your current boat. It very well be more than you can handle. However I would download the engine/outdrive manuals online for that year/model. You will find trim pump info in there. Personally I would say the trim needs to work before you take it out. Also back the boat in deep, and look in the bilge for any water coming in before you unhook it the first time. You can do this while the engine is warming up.

Check any thru hull fittings and hoses. Drain plug, bilge pump. Live well if it has it, built in cooler maybe? Just check all of them and make sure they are hooked up or plugged off.
 

NiteShadow

Cadet
Joined
Jan 15, 2021
Messages
11
Yeah once I realized some of the wires weren't connected to anything the first thing I did was try to find the manuals online for the engine and outdrive with no luck. That's why I was hoping someone here would be able to help but from what I've seen it sounds like pretty much every boat is different.

A pontoon is really my first choice. A few years back I went fishing with a friend on one and did some trolling and that's really what got me the boat fever.
 
Top