First Boat Project - 1988 Sorrento 23 BR

Kirche

Cadet
Joined
Apr 15, 2019
Messages
12
Hello everyone, first time actually posting on to a forum but lurk a lot. I bought a SeaRay Sorrento 23 last year for a grand. The boat had been left uncover since 2012 and the weather did some serious damage to the interior. The engine (454 Mercruiser) was not known if it would run or not. Well until winter hit I got the engine running, power steering working, and the Alpha One shifts and runs like a charm. Unfortunately I didn't mess with the floors until just a week ago as it is getting warm again. Well it was disastrous, all the wood under the floors is extremely rotted and the foam was soaked. Now I have begun the process of removing all that and I am looking for advice with what the heck to do with the front have of the boat which is all fiber glass. How do I get under it to remove foam and replace stringers or should I just ignore it as it is extremely solid to walk/jump on. Mostly hoping that if I start posting to a forum I will keep up on the project better and get some good advice/encouragement from other people and there projects.

Thank you all,
Kirche


P.S.
It is now garage kept so wont have to worry about this happening again!Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2544_zpsmdggchhb.jpg Views:	1 Size:	179.6 KB ID:	10725139
 

tpenfield

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:welcome: to iBoats . . .

Looks like you got yourself quite a project. there have been a few restorations of bowriders where access under the forward cockpit was needed. So, you may want to do some searching to see if you can find some specifics. As I recall, the access was difficult and uncomfortable. :rolleyes:

It is best to do it right though, so if the stringers are rotted up forward, then hopefully you can get enough access. If they are solid up in the forward section, you may be able to do a partial stringer replacement with a sufficient joint mending old/new.
 

chevymaher

Commander
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Mar 29, 2017
Messages
2,921
My boat is made like yours. I replaced everything up front. Not saying it was easy. But it can be done.
 

AShipShow

Lieutenant Commander
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Jul 8, 2016
Messages
1,792
Welcome! "FRESH MEAT BOYS!!" :laugh:

You're at the best place on the internet for advice. I will start that advice by saying, if I were to start over and have the room for it, I would HIGHLY consider decapitating the boat... especially with the integrated bow seats/floor. Mine was not part of the cap so I didn't absolutely need to do it, but I still wish I would have... Would have made transom and bow work, much easier.
 

Kirche

Cadet
Joined
Apr 15, 2019
Messages
12
My boat is made like yours. I replaced everything up front. Not saying it was easy. But it can be done.

That is good to hear that it is do-able at least haha! How awful was removing the cap, or did you find a work around?
 

chevymaher

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Mar 29, 2017
Messages
2,921
I did not remove the cap. I whittled the deck out first then the stringers. Once you get those 2 there is alot more room to lay to work on the edges.

I chose this method for 2 reasons.

1) I was doing it in the back yard and I had no room to put it once it was off. Plus spare the neighbors at least it looked like a nice boat as it was getting finished.

2) I researched it and to many horror stories of the hull changing shape cap not fitting. Extra holes weakening it. When I started it did not leak at that joint it was perfect and undamaged with a perfect rub rail.

It was my first time and I wanted a nice boat when done so no additional damage due to un needed procedures was acceptable.

Was it alot harder yes. Was it worth it Yes.

Cap staying on keeps its shape no distortion. I saw several guys on this forum even have huge changes in hull shape even with the cradle/bracing they put on the hull. And many more out there on the net. I said pass.

To me it is the only answer it works. I ain't afraid to work harder if the final outcome is better. And perfect as it was from factory is my goal. Not re using screws in old wood or making new holes.

Just my opinion and I would do it again the same way. Inspect my boat in person it looks factory in every aspect.

You only hear take the cap off. Never why to keep it on. Ultimately it is your call. Is the extra work worth it.
 

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Kirche

Cadet
Joined
Apr 15, 2019
Messages
12
I'm just about wrapping mine up now, I had the same kind if now and left my cap on. It's a little more work finding a place to lay to clean up under the bow but was a lot less work than pulling the cap in my eyes. If you haven't already check my build thread.

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...mplete-rebuild

Just did a quick read of your build, it looks great! Today and tomorrow I am going to keep working on cleaning mine out. What did you use to pull the engine? I am thinking I am going to have to park under a big oak or something to lift the Big block out..
 

Mechanicalmike08

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 29, 2018
Messages
308
Thanks,

If you look in the beginning I show a picture of the gantry crane I built but its shown lifting the boat not the motor. Its made up of 3 2x4 for the uprights and 2 2x6 for the cross beams. Then a simple chain hoist to do the lifting. I think i have a total of $120 into the wood and lift. It was real sturdy for me. People have used trees, skid loaders, fork lifts, you can rent cherry pickers or gantry cranes like the one I built. I personally would not use a tree for putting it back in becuase now all your nice work is done, it would be a shame if the tree broke or something went wrong.
 

gm280

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
14,604
I once had to lift my outboard engine off my Bass Boat. And since it was in a garage, I opened up the fold down stairs and placed 2 x 6's across the rafters and lift the engine using that type setup. It was a Mercury TOP inline six. So it was fairly heavy and the lifting setup worked perfectly. JMHO

So you could do something similar for yours as well.
 

Kirche

Cadet
Joined
Apr 15, 2019
Messages
12
Well got some done this morning before Work. Removing all this foam and rotted wood is proving easy but very time consuming. Also lifted the gas tank and found a lake of water below it along with a hole on the top of the tank. Thanks for the ideas for removing the engine, still not sure what I am going to do yet but now I have some options to think about.

20190416_111606_zpsuv2tcpbl.jpg
 

tpenfield

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Jul 18, 2011
Messages
18,040
Nice work. Good to see things moving along. Is that an aluminum tank ? (looks like it)

If it was sitting in water, then you will want to inspect the undersides for corrosion and pits. Often a tank that has been exposed to trapped water will need to be replaced because the corrosion has gone to far to make it usable.
 

gm280

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
14,604
Sad how boats can harbor so many hidden surprises. But hang in there, you will get through this too...
 

Kirche

Cadet
Joined
Apr 15, 2019
Messages
12
Trying to sleep and kept thinking about the boat last night (does this only happen to me??) and had a question for you much more knowledgeable folk here on iboat..

1 - the previous owner swapped a 350 for a 454 without changing the outdrive. I have read mixed opinions about the ability for the A1 to handle the torque on smaller boats, do you think this is just a ticking time bomb?

2 - I could potentially sell the 454 and swap to an ls engine and do a closed cooling with interchange but is it worth the gas/weight savings?

What do you guys think?
 

tpenfield

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I was wondering about that engine combination, because the Bravo outdrive was introduced in 1988, so I was surprised the boat did not have a Bravo. Your explanation makes sense.

The Alpha is rated up to 300HP, and your 454 (7.4L) is rated at 330 hp (or 365 HP if it is the 'Magnum', which has the rectangular intake ports).

Not much you can do at this point. I would keep the engine combination and if the outdrive goes ka-put . . . install a used Bravo 1. Money and effort is probably about the same as outfitting it with a 350 ci engine.
 

Kirche

Cadet
Joined
Apr 15, 2019
Messages
12
Got the gas tank out and tapped on the glass where the motor is mounted and the transom, it all seems really solid. Looks like there was a bulkhead that was cutting off everything forward of the engine and it was holding onto the majority of the water. Hopefully I won't have to go further than that back but who know with how bad everything else has been. Still having fun tho!
 

tpenfield

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18,040
Drill some test hole in the stringers and transom within the engine compartment. Make the low near the hull surface. See if you strike water.
 

Kirche

Cadet
Joined
Apr 15, 2019
Messages
12
Thought it would be fun to upload a video of the boat running, dont worry it was only running for like 60 secs without the earmuffs on! (This was before I knew how important water for the impeller was) Also don't mind my buddies kiddo being a goof.

 
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