Fibreglass boat floor replacement - do I need to use fiberglass?

[ShoestringMariner]

Gee, pour the foam before you install the decking. Use a long knife to cut the foam flush to the top of the stringers. Why bother with strategically placed holes that you have to plug?

Then, lay some strips of polyester resin saturated cloth on top of the stringers and screw the new decking into the stringers with SS wood screws. Now put 1 heavy layer of cloth or 2 lighter layers of cloth over the deck and add polyester resin. Not too complicated...

as much as I think that’s the easiest method by far, cutting the foam exposes the cells to water absorption, no?

 

[JASinIL2006]

I didn’t find plugging the foam pour-in holes and relief holes to bo all that arduous. frankly, the idea of trying to shave off the foam after pouring it at the perfect level so the deck will sit correctly sounds like much more of a pain in the butt.

 

[froggy1150]

Also one of the reasons i went with the plugs was that you bond the deck with the foam thats bonded with the hull. Figured it was stronger.

 

[Chris1956]

You guys will need to figure out what floats your boat....pun intended.

If you cannot cut foam along the stringers, easily, then I cannot help you.

Pouring foam into holes in the deck runs the risk of leaving voids, or pushing the deck up. Filling those holes after foaming, leaves the possibility of leaks thru the deck, and is a whole lot extra effort.

Marine pour in Foam is closed cell. Even if you cut it, it will not absorb water. Secondarily, you need to seal the deck well, as you do not want water into any voids, nor to sit in the bilge and rot stuff and smell.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

I haven’t done anything with the boat all winter long. Been trying to keep this sled running......



Lost a connecting rod bearing in NY and trashed the case.

 

[jbcurt00]

How does that relate to Shoe's questions about glassing his deck and/or pour in foam?

 

[ShoestringMariner]

Thanks for your advice everyone.
going to assess it after the ice and snow have gone.
I was going to give the boat away and keep the motor and trailer. Nice to have an empty trailer handy for those super “no trailer” deals that pop up. I’ve missed a few sweet deals because I had no trailer to scoop it.
But part of me would like to see how much fun this sleek little boat is with the Johnson 60 it came with. Then turn it out with a merc 65 that I want to move out.

 

[kcassells]

You guys will need to figure out what floats your boat....pun intended.

If you cannot cut foam along the stringers, easily, then I cannot help you.

Pouring foam into holes in the deck runs the risk of leaving voids, or pushing the deck up. Filling those holes after foaming, leaves the possibility of leaks thru the deck, and is a whole lot extra effort.

Marine pour in Foam is closed cell. Even if you cut it, it will not absorb water. Secondarily, you need to seal the deck well, as you do not want water into any voids, nor to sit in the bilge and rot stuff and smell.

Not to beat a dead horse but when you cut closed cell foam it is no longer closed cell foam and need to be sealed with poly/poxy. As far as air gaps when pouring foam with the proper 1 or more holes and elevated boat there are no gaps to worry about.
Filling the holes after a pour is as simple and safe from water as ABC. Cut foam flush and glass, drill out some foam and fill with pb, then glass, put back the wood pucks and glass over them.....
Last and not least the bond of foam to the sides, bottom of pour and to the underside of the deck is the best way to make the pour.
If your deck gets pushed up from 2# foam then think you have a structural install issue.

 

[JASinIL2006]

Not to beat a dead horse but when you cut closed cell foam it is no longer closed cell foam and need to be sealed with poly/poxy. As far as air gaps when pouring foam with the proper 1 or more holes and elevated boat there are no gaps to worry about.
Filling the holes after a pour is as simple and safe from water as ABC. Cut foam flush and glass, drill out some foam and fill with pb, then glass, put back the wood pucks and glass over them.....
Last and not least the bond of foam to the sides, bottom of pour and to the underside of the deck is the best way to make the pour.
If your deck gets pushed up from 2# foam then think you have a structural install issue.

Agree completely. It really is that simple.

I don’t agree that 2# foam cannot cause problems if the cavity is overfilled. That stuff can exert a lot of pressure when it kicks off, especially if a large cavity is involved.

 

[kcassells]

Agree completely. It really is that simple.

I don’t agree that 2# foam cannot cause problems if the cavity is overfilled. That stuff can exert a lot of pressure when it kicks off, especially if a large cavity is involved.

How do you overfill a cavity with foam if it has proper venting?
If the floor flexes or adjascent underfloor structures, in my opion they were underbuilt or not built properly. That will typically be the case.
But that is my opinion and evryone is allowed to have 1 or more.