Extra long shaft to long shaft

sutor623

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Just measure your motor like this. Just to clarify.

 
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racerone

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Well, you are not going to get much help here if you insist that you are correct. ----Do some trouble shooting on the motor as it should make the boat fly.---Your motor is a LONG SHAFT and NOT an extra long shaft.------Take some time to learn about the motor designation.
 

ondarvr

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If it's a long shaft, why does the lower unit sit way below the hull of the boat. Lower than normal?!
The transom is a long shaft transom!! Duh!
I think someone converted it to an extra long shaft!


I don't know if this motor had an XL option or not, but the exact measurements on transoms and motors can vary a bit from the 20" and 25" length indicated, not all are the length listed for them. Some transoms are shorter or longer, same with the motors, so if you get a slightly shorter than 20" transom and slightly longer than 20" motor, it can appear to be an XL shaft.
 
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racerone

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This motor is shown with one 5" spacer, therefor it is a LONG SHAFT.---Was LONG SHAFT when it left the factory.
 

Chinewalker

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The motor is a long shaft, set up for a 20-inch transom. Period. It IS NOT an extra long shaft. Period.

Your jack plate does not appear to be giving a full 5-inches of additional height. You have two options - raise the jack plate to get the motor higher, or remove the extension bits and replace the driveshaft to make it a short shaft.
 

oldboat1

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Just based on the pics, appears the vent plate will be above the bottom of the hull if you remove the extension. Presumably, that is your intention with the jack plate. When you have the lower unit off, you can pull the driveshaft to see what replacement length you will need (5" shorter than the one you have).
 

sutor623

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The motor is cavitating already. If I raise it any higher it will be trouble.


Well, then why in the world would you want to shorten the shaft in the first place?

Im with the others here, I think you are having a time planing because of motor issues, not shaft length issues.
 
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oldboat1

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Well, then why in the world would you want to shorten the shaft in the first place?

Im with the others here, I think you are having a time planing because of motor issues, not shaft length issues.

agree. (didn't see cavitation note before posting).

but thinking you might be mistaking cavitation for something else, given current motor mounting/running position. Might be a prop hub or lower unit issue. Might be a misfire interpreted as cavitation (one of the cylinders cutting in and out). And....could be a fuel pump or carb issue, giving you periodic hesitation (feeling like something slipping). Don't know what your experience is with outboards.
 

ondarvr

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This is a little picky, but you're not experiencing cavitation, it's ventilation, the two terms are commonly used incorrectly.

Post some pics of the lower unit from directly to the side and stern, we can't see the relationship of the hull and lower unit when the pic is taken from an angle.

Moving the motor up or down is easy to do, and may be the only way to dial it in. The jack plate can be repositioned or removed as needed to get it right.
 

racerone

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I am going to be blunt here.---We are up to 30 posts on a simple problem---We have a " student " who does not accept the teaching of folks with 40 or more years of experience.-Trouble shooting is required on this motor to find out why it is performing poorly !!
 

fishdeer24

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The motor was looked at and run by a certified outboard mechanic and the only thing wrong with it was the fuel pump was weak. It was replaced.
The motor was test ran and everything was good!! I put it on my boat and it has no planning power or full throttle rpm's.
 

oldboat1

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try this: Explain what you mean when you say the motor cavitates. Some of us think it's the motor running poorly. You posted about shaft length, in context of some performance issues that are a little open ended.

Saying it had a certified mechanical review won't feed the bulldog, particularly when you go on to describe problems on a new-to-you motor. Would be looking for things like compression numbers, verified spark, maybe more on what you mean by rpm issues. Does the motor idle smoothly, for example, and run smoothly when you throttle up, or does it stumble? Any ignition work? l.u. oil full and clear, gas and oil fresh at the proper mix? Is the operating temperature good? Somebody do some water pump work recently? Other lower unit work? Anybody replace the prop on that motor, or maybe examine it to see if the hub was spun?

Why did it go into the shop in the first place (you or the PO brought it there because of some specific operating issues?) What's the history of the motor? It looks like there is some corrosion at the lower unit -- maybe used on a pontoon, maybe rarely. Fresh water motor?

not interested in pushing your buttons -- but do you work on outboards? Done some testing on this one before purchase, or know of work done?

Shaft lengths and jack plates aside, could use some convincing that the motor is in good mechanical condition -- some better hints about the operating condition of the motor.
 

sutor623

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Yup, me and plenty of the guys on here work on our own motors because certified mechanics "fixed " the issue, charged $500, and left us back at square one. Best thing you can do as an outboard owner is learn how to do some simple tests on your own.
 

sutor623

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The height of that motor actually looks pretty good to me with that jack plate. These motors are kind of funny. My 1980 short shaft 9.9 measured 18".
 

fishdeer24

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Sep 23, 2015
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Why is it 23" from the mounting bracket to the cavitation plate? Aren't long shafts 20" and short shafts 15"?
 

racerone

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??????-------Long shaft is for a 20 inch transom.----Short shaft is for a 15" transom.--We agree on this.-----It is NOT a measurement on the motor !!!!!
 
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