Exhaust manifold help. Dauntless 225 with Stringer outdrive.

[MFG1970]

I know from what I read mostly its, Run Run Run!. Well I got the 1970 MFG 18 foot Deep V for free. So far I have redone the Electric shift
outdrive including new forward and reverse coils New water pump cup and impellor and the outdrive is working very well on land (LOL) Now I have been working on the OLD Buick (Jeep) 225 Dauntless V6 engine. I have replaced the timing chain put new head gaskets lifters and intake manifold gaskets. I replaced the exhaust Heat exchange gaskets Riser gaskets and cleared out all the gunk and have clear passages. I am a bit confused about the riser gaskets closing off the return side of the water flow. I get water into the engine and get water coming out of the thermostat T (4 Prongs) to the heat exchanger. I get water coming out the stringer intermediate housing. I just do not understand where it comes from if the return from the T is blocked off at the rear of the exhaust manifold at the riser. Can anyone help me out with this. So far I have about 1300.00 into this project. There has been some water intrusion into the oil but may have been introduced when doing the timing chain cover. Thanks in advance. I did remove the freeze out plugs and flush the entire block heads and manifold while I had it down.

 

[MFG1970]

My exhaust manifolds have three slots this is the riser gasket at the rear of the exhaust manifold. The missing slot is the return of the water from the Thermostat T. I suppose it is supposed to be like that but how does the water then exit into the exhaust. I tried to force water into it with a hose adapter power sprayer but it just kept blowing back at me. The ports are cleared out. Is there supposed to be a port that allows water to enter into the exhaust at the rear of the manifold?

 

[MFG1970]

A few pictures of the outdrive boat and motor for reference.

 

[southkogs]

Is that the closed cooling system on it? Or are you drawing raw water in?

 

[MFG1970]

No Its an open system. I am running off the muffs (Fake Lake) I just installed a new impellor and cup. Finished the motor today ran very nicely. Just worried about manifold temps. My sender unit is broken and the boat has an idiot light not a gage. That is why I need info about the hoses and exhaust to riser gasket cut off. I would think the return water should exit the manifold into the riser but the gasket does not allow it to flow out. I though of maybe cutting away the missing hole for the port but want to be sure if the water is not supposed to exit the manifold before I do and get water into the engine as a result. I Also needed to know if the water intake from the impellor water pump goes to the bottom or top of the T stat housing T. The inlet comes from the lower port of the heat exchange with free flow the return is cut off and does not exit the exhaust manifold. By the way This engine is a Dauntless V6 Odd fire engine and i have the parts list for the entire exhaust below.

 

[MFG1970]

If you lay the two pictures below on top of each other it may be more clear on what I am trying to describe. There should be a hole but it is blocked off at the rear riser gasket and open at the heat exchanger. The blocked port gasket wont let water exit the Exhaust manifold. Is that correct or should it be open with an open system? The right gasket there should be flipped opposite but still the same result. (Mistake editing it). The third port in the exhaust manifold is covered by the heat exchanger it has no purpose I know of.

 

[MFG1970]

WOW Ok I think I got it. The camel hump threw me off. The gasket is like a valve one way for a closed system and rotate it for an open system. I am just going to rotate the heat exchanger to the proper position. Last owner had it set wrong. Still need to know if the cold raw water inlet hose goes to the upper or lower of the Thermostat T and I should be good to go.

 

[salvageyard saviour]

Don't know if you have it figured out yet,
The top connections on the thermostat housing are inflowing water
and the bottom 2 are outflow.
The water being pumped from the outdrive comes up through the pivot hinges through the intermediate housing to the 2 on top of it, the hoses from there connect to the exaust elbows, the flow goes through the manifolds to the lower of the 2 holes on the end cap. the lower hole hose connects to the upper on the engine thermostat housing. The lower hole hoses connect back to the end cap upper hole.
Attached is a parts diagram for the 225 showing the hose routing

 

[MFG1970]

I got it. Thanks for the info. Bad part is I still had water in the oil after replacing the lifters. I just put a new valley pan gasket on it yesterday. I picked up a radiator and some long hoses so I can try to do a block seal on it. I'll be using "Seal Up" Liquid Glass metallic. (Copper) and try to get this thing in shape. It really ran beautifully and No wear on the cylinder walls at all when I put the head gaskets on it. Waiting On a new temp gages so not to over heat it when doing the surgery. I'll post back results after that.

 

[kenny nunez]

Have you checked the timing cover for the source of getting water in the oil?

 

[MFG1970]

Have you checked the timing cover for the source of getting water in the oil?

Yes I redid the water pump yesterday and ran block sealer through it. Ran nicely and after checking the oil level this morning it appears to be OK. I just used permatex for the water pump as the one i bought for the CJ5 had a slot where the bypass is and was shooting water. Cant seem to find the right gasket for the dauntless. I did think that water was entering the engine through the timing case cover bolts and may have been the issue but I ran the sealer as a preventitive measure just in case. I need to empty the rest of the system and let it sit for 24 hours. Thanks for the help.