Dixie boat 170 , Floor , Transom , Stringers Rebuild. big job

[Carpenter2486]

 

[mxcobra]

Once you get to fiberglass, you'll see how easy fiberglass is to work with and repair things. Fixing the cut at halfway on cap. Will be the easiest thing in ur project. ...

 

[Carpenter2486]

​got my dad to come over a hand

 

[Carpenter2486]

ended up having to cut the transom cap... hopefully goes back on as easy as came off... ​

 

[Carpenter2486]

and we are off.




​

 

[Carpenter2486]

was able to removed the cap, also was able to save the peace of transom cap we cut off, a little chiselling and it popped off, great news for me,, the transom was quite rotten, the ply was pealing a lot as well was the fiberglass, looked like a mess. needless to say good thing I chose to rebuild to this level and not leave tell some other time, I have the top cap on the trailer, supported at the bow, also the mid area and transom,, It dose not seem to have any sag,, just want to make sure, I have planned for it to sit there for quite sometime.... other than that, so far everything has went fairly smooth! oh yes! I don't have photos but I supported the KEAL area abit better with some 2x6 in a V shape, now I have the bunks supported aswell keal up 6 inches on each side, my cradle is a beast.. but it was 20% off for military members at lumber yard, couldn't resist over building it.

 

[Carpenter2486]

v

 

[Carpenter2486]

​my girlfriend liked to help with the boat , i got her to sand and repaint the old oxidized windshield frame, did a real nice job! quite impressed! i will be hiring her again to grind some fiberglass i think!

 

[Carpenter2486]

my update this week was getting the transom out, I found it is not 2 sheets of 3/4 all the way down it is one full transom sheet then one half sheet,, when I replace it I plan on doing 2 full 3/4 all the way down, added support for not really any more cost,, also easier to fiberglass ,, I did some across some weird glassing behind the wood after I replaced it,, its as if the company did a crap job using resin ,, or in this case not enough of it,,, I did attempt to grind it and hope to find nice solid glass behind the " dried hairs " and I did but that took off atleast 1/8th the thickness of the glass.. I'm wondering if anyone would subject before putting new wood to add another layer of CSM just to give the transom some thickness... then apply the new transom wood onto that,,, hopefully you know what I'm trying to say, photos should explain it,, but I'm hoping someone is following this who could shine some light on this! Thank you as always!

 

[Carpenter2486]

 

[Carpenter2486]

 

[Carpenter2486]

is anyone following this progress?? I have listed multiple questions and not a reply.. I thought that was the point of a forum boat rebuild was to get assistance from other boat rebuilders?

 

[jbcurt00]

I only saw 1 question since mid April about adding a layer of CSM to the transom before installing the new transom plywood.

IMO, its probably not necessary, but it isnt going to be costly in materials or time to do, so if it gives you an additional practice w glassing and provides piece of mind, no harm in adding the extra layer of CSM.

Busy time of year since your last post. Theres the rush to get boats water ready by Memorial day and then Memorial to Labor day is the primary boating season across all of North America, so lots are out uaing their boats.

 

[Carpenter2486]

I was not accusing anything or anyone, just a little curious
​of the silence, I understand everyone is busy. my main concern was is it normal that my transom has that loose original csm
and is it advised to grind and grind and grind until it is all gone or will that just get moulded in when I attach my new transom...
another concern I had was how my cap is sitting , would that be enough support to stop it from warping? but for now the cap is sitting back on the boat
and in the garage for storage until I return from this posting across the country..
but thank you for your reply and answers JB

 

[Woodonglass]

Hopefully you took LOTS of measurements prior to taking the cap off. Instead of putting it back on to help hold the shape of the hull but you can use nylon straps to keep her in shape. I'd highly recommend grinding off all the delaminated glass. If it leaves the outer skin a bit wavy that's nothing to worry about. When you install the transom and use the Peanut Butter it will fill in all the irregularities and smooth everything out. I'd recommend you read the 2nd link in my signature. It has some good info on how to install a transom. This link SHOWS you how.

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...s-total-gut-and-rebuild?p=8508673#post8508673

 

[mxcobra]

Following, but thought I would leave the ? answering to some of the more edjumucated, on here. If you really want it strong, I would lay it up with some csm and roven woven. Before and after the plywood, sandwich the ply in nice and tight. Shoot you could ad some knees in there while your at it. this forum will get slow on answers during peak summer time, best time for asing ? is February when everyone is still home. and jonz en to get back on the water.

 

[Carpenter2486]

thanks for the assistance WOG and MX, wog I have that entire forum of yours for rebuilding transoms and stringers saved and printed , it is sitting right beside the boat as a big book, it is my main source for mostly everything. I will be following it like a bible. and MX my plan is to make this transom as strong as possible so I most likely will now it up a lot, the boat is rated for a 115, and that is the size of motor going on it, so I think a little added support will do it well. . when I grind the delaminated fibers until they are all gone, some spots are very thin, almost a 16th. that is why I was quite worried and wanted to know about the extra layers. also wog I did take tons of measurements, I hope I have enough supports to keep the hull in the same shape .. I have been checking it periodically incase it shifted,, would any of you have a photo of how to store the top cap? when I return home from this deployment I the cap will be returned to outside storage I'm not sure if just 2 saw horses and some 2x4's will do? or where to focus the support.
thank you again for the help.

 

[Woodonglass]

SawHorses with 2x4's is pretty typical. Cover with a tarp and you'll be fine.

 

[Carpenter2486]

I have just returned home.from being deployed for the past 6 months. Now I can get to the boat abit. I play on building the new transom in the coming week or 2. Then PB it into place and getting as far as I can with.the transom as I can before the snow hits. I have now. Big question. Living in northern Canada. The boat will be in a tarp building but there very well may be frost inside. ( -30ish ) average will this affect my new glass in any way. I'm hoping to have transom tabbed and atleast a full cover. But it will be non wax poly. And im still unsure how the wax per unwax works when it comes to exposure. Just want to make sure. Thanks for the advice everyone it's great to be home.

 

[Carpenter2486]

the wood for the transom has been picked up, I went with 3/4 fir, I'm going to double the ply to have a nice thick transom , it was a 1.5 inch transom before but the factory only did the top half of the transom doubled then it was just single 3/4 to the bottom of the hull,, not sure why... this should be a nice improvement any ways, the boats max HP is 115, and my motor is a 115, enforcing slightly larger transom will only aid, I don't plan on going higher HP anyways.. maybe Etec in the for seeable future , I will have photos in the days to come, I figured everyone has seen 4x8 plywood,, I just hope this goes as smooth as possible,, tons of research but this is new to me... hoping for the best... any last minute tips from anyone are always welcome! aha