Determining Whether or not to Rebuild 1990 17' Larson

robreye25

Cadet
Joined
Dec 16, 2020
Messages
14
Hello All, first post here. I have been reading around quite a bit, and I understand my story is all too similar to that of others'.
My wife and I moved to Minnesota in 2019, and after watching everyone enjoy their time on the water, we wanted to get in on the fun. Never even driven a boat before, we rented a few pontoon boats and decided we wanted something for ourselves. Never owning a boat, we wanted something low cost. Fall of 2020 we found a 1990 Larson All American 170. The previous owner had redone the upholstery on the seats, and the remaining upholstery was in great condition. Needless to say, I overpaid... grossly overpaid.
I did a fair bit of research, but obviously not enough. When checking the boat, I found a typical soft spot by the ski locker and chalked it up to a 30-year-old boat problem. I convinced myself that it was not an issue. I knew the boat wouldn't be perfect, but figured we could get a couple of seasons out of it to really get a feel for boating. Mistakes aside, we used the boat about a dozen times before having it winterized, covered, and stored on the side of the house for winter (I overpaid for this also...). The mechanics that winterized the boat made no comments about the condition of the boat.

Overall, last fall, the boat ran well. I only had a few concerns:
1. It pulled to the right, and was difficult to steer under high throttle.
2. The Rub rail seems to be separating from the boat in a couple of places.
3. After running for an hour or two, there's a small amount of water in the bilge (not enough to run the bilge pump). I cannot tell where the water is entering.

During winter, I did a lot of reading about the floor and rub rail. I had a lot of concern about the condition of the stringers given what I'd read.
Fast forward to this year.
I uncovered the boat and immediately started inspecting the floor. Not much had changed. I turn my attention to the battery, removing it to recharge, and was shocked at what I found. The plywood has nearly disintegrated under the battery at the port side of the stern. Portions of the transom feel almost hollow with dry rot. The transom consists of a backplate that spans the full width of the stern, and a middle section on top of that where the keyhole is. The starboard and port-most sides of the transom are pretty soft. A Section of the middle is so bad that I was too nervous to go poking around to see how deep the rot is. One of the front motor mount bolts was loose but tightened back up by hand. I will test it with a wrench later this week, but the motor mount (1 piece) may still be in good condition).

I can't for the life of me understand how it's possible that the boat ran last fall without more signs of an issue. We have a small lake right by our house that we frequent. I had the boat running full out each time.

I'm really struggling with trying to decide whether to take on this project or sell the boat to someone who is willing to take it on. I am a project-oriented person, I typically have a handful of projects revolving around at any given time. I've done a lot of mechanical work on cars, I frequently do woodworking projects, house projects, restore old furniture and machines... but nothing as big as rebuilding a boat. As stated, I have other projects in the lineup as well and am trying to determine if taking this on is realistic. The great thing about these forums is that it's a collection of like-minded people. I'm sure many of you who have rebuilt your boats are also very project-oriented. I have a handful of questions I'm hoping this group could help me with.

1. Is there anyone who has chosen to sell their boat, rather than repair it? If so, How did you go about that process, given its condition?
2. For those of you who have rebuilt floor, stringers, transom all together, how long did it take you and how often were you working on the boat? I've read a handful of resto threads, and I've seen everywhere from 6 months to a year or more. I'm trying to gauge how much time during the week is devoted to working on the boat.
3. I don't have room in my garage to keep the boat during work, so I'll have to perform this in the backyard. This means that I would have to perform demo and glassing during the warmer months. Is this realistic?
4. If I start this project, what do I do with the full tank of gas in the boat? I planned on moving the boat to the driveway to flush out the coolant and get the engine running. At that point, I can lower the sterndrive and put some pressure on it. Assuming I do not see any flexing, is it crazy to put this boat in the water, check for leaks, if good, burn off the fuel? I'm not looking to go full throttle here. I genuinely don't know what to do with all of the gas though.

I know this is a lot to throw out on the first post, but I am pretty torn in my decision-making. Needless to say, I'm embarrassed that I bought such a mess, thinking I was setting my wife and me up for a couple of years of enjoyment.

Any help, suggestions, are greatly appreciated.

-Rob
 

tpenfield

Moderator
Staff member
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Jul 18, 2011
Messages
18,040
Welcome to iBoats . . . although you signed up a while ago.

Here are my comments to you questions.


1. Is there anyone who has chosen to sell their boat, rather than repair it? If so, How did you go about that process, given its condition?

It would be a tough sell even if it were free. That is why many folks decide to fix their boat rather than get rid of it.

2. For those of you who have rebuilt floor, stringers, transom all together, how long did it take you and how often were you working on the boat? I've read a handful of resto threads, and I've seen everywhere from 6 months to a year or more. I'm trying to gauge how much time during the week is devoted to working on the boat.

I need to retire so I can get more projects done. Right now
I have a backlog of stuff needing to be done . . . boat, cars, house. 6 Months on a restoration project is about right :unsure: . 3 months may set a land speed record. :D . . . some folks have taken a year or more, as you noted. It all depends on how much time you have available vs. other things in life.

3. I don't have room in my garage to keep the boat during work, so I'll have to perform this in the backyard. This means that I would have to perform demo and glassing during the warmer months. Is this realistic?

It is a small boat, get one of those temporary storage tents to keep the weather out. If you have to glass during colder times, you can heat the area in question using outdoor heaters, etc.

4. If I start this project, what do I do with the full tank of gas in the boat? I planned on moving the boat to the driveway to flush out the coolant and get the engine running. At that point, I can lower the sterndrive and put some pressure on it. Assuming I do not see any flexing, is it crazy to put this boat in the water, . . .

Pump the gasoline out into 5 gallons jugs and transfer it to your cars, as you need to fill the cars up. It may take a while to consume all of the gas, but in the near-term you will have more beer money. :D :cool:

As for a budget . . . plan on about $3K in materials and supplies to rebuild the boat. I would not run it, if it is as bad as you described . . . sounds like the carpet and the upholstery are the only thing holding it together. :LOL:

Post some pictures when you can so we can see what you are seeing.
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
37,827
I am doing a 40 year old 17' boat now.------The materials ( structural ) used in boats 40 years ago can be described as DISGUSTING.-----I am redoing this boat with composite material.----Carbon fiber / kevlar and West System epoxy.-----Not keeping track of the coins or time involved.----There will be huge satisfaction when done.-----Never rot again.-----And from the sound of it you need to start with removing engine and outdrive.----Build a support for the hull on the trailer.---Put the paper coveralls on .-----Dust mask / and goggles and have a go at it.------Gut the hull. and start fitting replacement material.-----It helps if you have support from the wife or even kids to do the clean up and sanding.---Or find another boat.-----As you know there is a high demand for used boats at this time.-----Many 15 year old boats will have structural issues as well.
 

88 Capri (2022 SOTY)

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 25, 2019
Messages
819
I am in my second year rebuilding mine (during the warmer months) and with the issues visible there are many that aren't. It is a time intensive job but at least you can spread the cost out compared to having a boat payment.
I asked myself a couple of questions many times which lead me to do what I'm doing.
1. Do I like the boat outside of the issues.
2. Can I afford a payment on a used boat that may have similar issues but not as apparent.
3. Could I sell this boat with the issues I knew it had and sleep at night.
Like many will say when you get it done and she's on the water she's probably in better condition in that it will be around long after the others you see because it's done right.
This is my first and the people here made it possible with their knowledge and friendliness.
 

Meames1

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Dec 14, 2020
Messages
157
I just finished a 1990 Larson 190DC https://forums.iboats.com/threads/restoring-a-1990-larson.741569/. While I knew the issues when I bought my boat...they sound the very same as yours. Expect a complete gut as I assume you are aware of now.

The reason I redid mine instead of buying something newer or "water-ready" was because of the money I wanted to pay (less than 10K) versus the shape and power of boat I wanted was not realistic. I figured it was easy to buy one with hidden issues and better for me to just gut and build one.

I rebuilt mine in just over 5 months, complete gut, separate cap, new engine, drive, etc etc. I understand this isn't a time line that most people schedule for. I knew what I was getting into and made bi-weekly deadlines to keep me on track.

In my very humble opinion, if you have the ability and enjoy the challenge, then by all means dive in. The reward is something you can be proud of and you'll know exactly what you have. Just don't expect it to be worth the $$ you'll have in it ;) .

Good luck whatever you do.
 

kcon

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Dec 10, 2016
Messages
303
Expect it to take 3-10x the amount of time you think it will, and cost at least 3x. Don't let the sunken cost fallacy make you think you NEED to fix it cause you're X dollars into it already - if you're going to take on restoring it, you have to WANT to restore it, cause it's a tedious and relatively costly venture you don't want to get another few thousands bucks into before you burn out and let it rot in the yard. If you like projects, hell yeah take it on, just expect it to be more work than you initially think it will be if you want to get it done right, lots of helpful folks here to offer technical advice should you run into any issues or have questions.

When I started my rebuild project I purchased a quart of epoxy, certain I'd have enough to get the job done. Somewhere around 15 gallons of epoxy, and 3 years later, she's done....and freaking awesome.
 

robreye25

Cadet
Joined
Dec 16, 2020
Messages
14
I appreciate everyone's quick responses. This is some of the most support I've received on a forum in a long time. You may be putting the JEEP forum to shame! hahaha.

A lot of comments were made to start, so I want to address each. Hopefully, this isn't too chaotic.

@tpenfield Thank you for the suggestion on the fuel situation. Seems so simple. The outdoor cover may work out well.

@racerone You bring up a few points that I haven't found a solution to just yet. I'm outdoors, I'm not sure how I will handle building a cradle for the boat, and transferring from the roller trailer. I'm hoping I can use an engine hoist from harbor freight or Northern Tool.

@88 Capri This was also our choice to avoid a monthly payment. Truth be told, we would not be replacing the boat if I sold this at this point. I would only sell it to someone who understood the condition of the boat. A little old lady and her son sold the boat to me. They'd clearly been using it. The tags are good until 2022, and I can't imagine this rot just showed up in 2019. They had to have known. I couldn't do that to someone.

@Meames1 I've had my eyes on your build. Very nice work! I have no problem with sticking to deadlines. Did you do all of your work on weekends? Some weeknights? Every free minute? A five-month timeline is something I can tolerate. 1 year won't work for me.

@kcon The sunken cost fallacy is exactly what I'm trying to avoid. My wife and I have enjoyed our time on the boat, but haven't had enough experience with it to know if this is something that we "Must Have."

I take a lot of pride in my projects and the work I do. I know I am capable, but I also am concerned about getting into something that will have my hands tied for the entire summer.

I took a bunch of photos on lunch today and will upload them shortly
 

robreye25

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Joined
Dec 16, 2020
Messages
14
An overview of the boat
 

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robreye25

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Dec 16, 2020
Messages
14
Images of the stern exterior
The stern looks fine. There are no cracks in the fiberglass, outside of the area just below the bilge drain. I'm not sure if this is something to be very concerned about or not.
The previous owner did not put any caulk around the gimbal housing, telling me that they'd not experienced leaking in that area.

I can put my full weight (170 lbs) on the lower unit, and everything feels strong.
 

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robreye25

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Dec 16, 2020
Messages
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Engine, bilge, and transom area
The area of the transom, immediately to the left of the gimbal housing, this is the worst of the rot, that I can see. the plywood is like paper.
You can also see where it looks as though the floor under the battery wore down to the foam. The transom area behind this is soft as well.
 

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robreye25

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Rub Rail pulling away
 

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robreye25

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Dec 16, 2020
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Area under the ski locker. You can see where someone had tried to brace the floor
In the first image, you can kind of see where the floor dimples. It's on the left side by the seam in the floor. (lower left of photo).
Stringers are firm in this area.
 

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racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
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You build the extra support / bunks on the trailer so that there is little chance that boat will distort while you have structure out out of the hull.
 

kcon

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Dec 10, 2016
Messages
303
What a nice boat, great condition all things considered, but yeah it's a full gut job below the deck. Screws into wood stringers below deck is a bad sign typically, not that you don't already know she's due for fresh wood. Honestly I think it would be a great project, but in my opinion ya gotta be in love with it - if so, you can maybe have it ready for next summer on the water. Seems like a great layout of a boat to restore too, especially based on @Meames1 thread - he makes it look easy for sure!

Rub rail is a non issue, it seems like it was glued on and the glue gave up, maybe somebody replaced it along the line and never used screws. I'd remove it, clean up the old glue, bead some 3M 5200 behind it - then use some stainless screws (I used stainless rivets for mine) to get it back in (keep the screws in the channel behind the rubber insert, this is usually how they're installed). Just be sure the gap between the hull and top cap is sealed too, if not spread some 5200 in there to - I'd save the rub rail fix till the end incase you need to remove the top cap for some reason, you don't always need to remove the cap when replacing stringers/deck, but often you do.
 

tpenfield

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18,040
Looks kind of nasty down below. Think of the money Larson saved making that boat :oops::rolleyes:
 

robreye25

Cadet
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Dec 16, 2020
Messages
14
Thanks everyone!

@racerone I'm having trouble imagining how to add support to the roller trailer. I will search around the forum for some solutions, but the fact that the boat can stay on the trailer is a huge bonus.

@kcon Good to know the rub rail isn't too big of a deal. I'm hoping to not have to pull the cap, just because of storage issues. That being said, something is definitely happening here. Thinking back, I believe some water made it into the boat through the rub rail last year. Just some drops, nothing much.
 

robreye25

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Dec 16, 2020
Messages
14
@tpenfield Good point! Comparing this to what I've been reading, the stringers are only fiberglassed from their bases to about 1/2 or 3/4 the way up. The deck does not have any glassing underneath from what I can tell.

I think the hardest part is biting the bullet and tearing into it. Knowing that as soon as I rip it apart there's no turning back.
 

kcon

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Dec 10, 2016
Messages
303
Thinking back, I believe some water made it into the boat through the rub rail last year. Just some drops, nothing much.
If you build her right, you should be able to sink it, drain it, and not worry about water intrusion in any structure, but some prep work and a good bead of 5200 and that rub rail won't leak again.

For some support ideas, here's what I did:
aU7ioVq.jpg


Just get some weight on some equal supports on each side that won't move over time, don't have to get too technical or precise, just prevent it from sagging.
 

kcon

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Dec 10, 2016
Messages
303
I think the hardest part is biting the bullet and tearing into it. Knowing that as soon as I rip it apart there's no turning back.
Well, the good thing about that is you're pretty much already out the money at this point, cause nobody's buying a rotten boat lol
 

robreye25

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Dec 16, 2020
Messages
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Well, the good thing about that is you're pretty much already out the money at this point, cause nobody's buying a rotten boat lol
Valid Point. Do you think the boat has value to someone who would be interested in restoring it? I realize that's not something any one person can answer. If selling it is exteremely unlikely, then I won't waste more time. Ultimately, I'd rather not waste a summer trying to sell the unsellable when I could be fixing it.

I'm considering hooking the boat up to the muffs this week to make sure there aren't any issues with starting / running.

Also, If I pull the engine and lower unit, and they are removed from the boat for winter, how should I go about winterizing? Or will they be fine since they're empty?
 
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