Dean's List gets another motor

[alldodge]

Came up the hill and ready to start work

 

[Scott Danforth]

Was going to ask if you got the motor installed

 

[alldodge]

Not yet, motor is ready once old one is removed. Just brought it to my lot so we can Start the work of pulling old

 

[alldodge]

Got the prop off but not able to get the shaft to separate from the transmission collar. Ordered another puller, hope that gets it done

 

[alldodge]

Managed to get the prop shaft to break loose from the coupler. Lots of pressure was used and there was a loud bang when it released. Worked off and on for a few days and got no where. Bought the right puller and some 6.5 inch grade 8 bolts and it came loose. Motor comes out tomorrow if all goes well

Edit: they were 7 inch bolts and we cut 1/2 inch off, chased the threads with a 7/16-20 die and then used it

 

[Willyclay]

Bought the right puller...
View attachment 380472

Attaboy! Please identify the puller used so I can order one also. Thanks.

 

[alldodge]

This one
https://skiboatpartsonline.com/Coupling-Puller-Tool

 

[alldodge]

Motor came out today



This is new, a tray under the intake. Have not seen that before, guess we will install in rebuilt motor. Injectors go out tomorrow to Smitty's in Michigan

 

[Scott Danforth]

Gen V and VI have the oil control baffle. Keeps intake cool

 

[alldodge]

Should be Gen 6, boat is 1999 but bought in 1998. Who knows might be older. Maybe have a look at the plate in it

 

[Scott Danforth]

99 should be Gen VI

 

[alldodge]

Original motor is stripped and put back in the crate. Started putting things back on rebuild and 2 issues came up.

Oil port below the distributor had a plug installed by the machine shop, WHY we have no idea. Would not be a major problem but the dog turd guy also used some kind of loctite and it won't come out. I used acetylene only and Ox/Axe and no matter what heat was not able to break it free. So we're moving the ECM switch down by the oil sender

Installing the damper on the crank and it's not going easy at all. This is old damper and brank new eagle crank. Removing the damper I had to use the pulled almost the full length just to get it off. A local shop has a pusher so going to try and borrow it

 

[Scott Danforth]

Probably used an electric burp gun to install the plug

 

[Scott06]

Original motor is stripped and put back in the crate. Started putting things back on rebuild and 2 issues came up.

Oil port below the distributor had a plug installed by the machine shop, WHY we have no idea. Would not be a major problem but the dog turd guy also used some kind of loctite and it won't come out. I used acetylene only and Ox/Axe and no matter what heat was not able to break it free. So we're moving the ECM switch down by the oil sender

Installing the damper on the crank and it's not going easy at all. This is old damper and brank new eagle crank. Removing the damper I had to use the pulled almost the full length just to get it off. A local shop has a pusher so going to try and borrow it

Maybe clean up inside of damper with a flap wheel to remove burrs and clearance it a little

 

[alldodge]

Brand new never been used crank, don't know what a flap wherl should be able to do

 

[Scott06]

Brand new never been used crank, don't know what a flap wherl should be able to do

Seemed like from your comments that balancer was more difficult than it should have been to remove. use a flap wheel and die grinder to clean up ID of balancer and open it up hair so it goes on easier. Possible its been on and off before someone may have beat it up…

1-1/2” x 1” x 1/4” Mounted Flap Wheel - 5 Pack

The 1.5 inch diameter by 1 inch wide by ¼ inch shank Mounted Flap Wheel Aluminum Oxide by Black Hawk Abrasives are the ideal choice for polishing, flash removal, light grinding, deburring, scale removal, blending, and graining in small spaces, such as the inside or outside of pipes or tubes.

www.empireabrasives.com

use them all the time at work on machine repairs and overhauls when things have some wear or damage.

 

[ScottinAZ]

Seemed like from your comments that balancer was more difficult than it should have been to remove. use a flap wheel and die grinder to clean up ID of balancer and open it up hair so it goes on easier. Possible its been on and off before someone may have beat it up…

1-1/2” x 1” x 1/4” Mounted Flap Wheel - 5 Pack

The 1.5 inch diameter by 1 inch wide by ¼ inch shank Mounted Flap Wheel Aluminum Oxide by Black Hawk Abrasives are the ideal choice for polishing, flash removal, light grinding, deburring, scale removal, blending, and graining in small spaces, such as the inside or outside of pipes or tubes.

www.empireabrasives.com

use them all the time at work on machine repairs and overhauls when things have some wear or damage.

yep, check it for burrs, clean any crap out of it, but DONT GO NUTS and make it too loose..... these and the scotchbrite discs for a die grinder have fubarred more machined fits in the hands of an amateur than anything else......

 

[alldodge]

Most everything is back on the motor, including injectors and rail (not shown). Waiting on a thermostat for couple weeks. If we don't get it soon we're going to use the old one.

 

[alldodge]

Motor is complete less Dizzy. Need to tie wrap some wires up. In another day or so we'll take it out and fire it up

 

[alldodge]

Sometimes you just can't catch a brake.
Good and Bad news

Good
Jump pins 5 to 6, ECM powers up and fuel pump runs.
Bleed fuel rail and getting a steady 40 sum psi. Pump shuts off and pressure holds most of it.
Crank motor over without powering up to find TDC number 1
Install Dizzy, finish connecting

Bad
Motor cranks but no spark
Motor ran fine for many years and now no spark. Check fuses, grounds, power to Dizzy and coil. Remove module and test Dizzy coil and all good. Are going to get a new module