Chrysler 75hp, need direction.

[Tapphouse]

There is a small tab bolted to block with a line, and the sticker on the flywheel. I think it says 32* maybe a couple lines and TDC. I’ll double check and send pic.

Ok I’ll find small piece of wire to run thru it. These carbs look very clean. Nothing seems dirty, plugged and the floats are level when turned upside down.

Food for thot……Is there any intake/exhaust valves like a typical gas engine? The fact that it was running good then just started bogging has me wondering if something got sucked up, broke/ let go, or maybe something in distributor? I have clear fuel line and there is zero air all the way. I have spark but not sure how strong it is (it “snaps”), what would cause lack of air other than timing? Checking points or whatever in distributor I have zero experience with and will prob need more guidance when I get all this other stuff back together.
Thanks again everyone, REALLY appreciate the help. Talk soon.

 

[Nordin]

Two stroker do not have valves as a four stroker.
It have reed valves and they can be mounted in different places depending on brands.
Chrysler/Force has as V-reed mouting base assembly behind the carbs at the intake manifold
They are like paddles made of stainless steel (Swedish from the company Sandvik mostly and I am living in the town Sandviken where this company was born in 1862 and I am working at this company).
This was just an own reflection.
The reed valves works as a check valve when the over and under pressure creates in the crank case by the pistons.
When the piston goes down the reed valves close and the air/fuel mixutre will be pressed up to the combustion chamber and be ignite.
When the piston goes up the reed valves will open and the fresh air/fuel mixture will be suck into the crank case because of the under pressure in the crank case.
BTW If the spark can jump 3/8 in or more in atmosphere then it is good enought.

 

[Tapphouse]

Oh that’s awesome! Thanks for sharing that.

Ok, I kinda thot that’s how it worked, so any typical valve issues don’t apply here. I guess that kinda helps narrow it down some.

Spark jump 3/8” gap?? How do I set that up? I only see spark on the surface gap plugs.

 

[racerone]

Just make a simple tester.----2 pieces of wire glued on carboard.-----A 3/8" gap between the wire.-----One end in a plug boot.-----Other end clipped to the block.

 

[Nordin]

Racerones tester is a cheap simple one and good enought.
You can make one by your self and a one you can adjust.
A base metal sheet and a screw that you can adjust the gap.
If you use a M4 (metric screw) you can just thread a spark plug adapter to the screw.
Or buy a spark tester from the web.
There are many out there.

 

[Tapphouse]

Adjustable spark plug tester ordered, be here tomorrow. I’d make my own but I work way too many hours a day to fab something up. Thanks guys!

 

[Tapphouse]

Quick question about float orientation….. which way does the float go in, brass tab up to carb or down to bowl? Parts diagram says down but the way carbs have been is up.

 

[Tapphouse]

Quick question about float orientation….. which way does the float go in, brass tab up to carb or down to bowl? Parts diagram says down but the way carbs have been is up.

Pics aren’t working……there is a long brass tab ,” L” shape.

 

[Nordin]

I have not worked with those carbs lately so not really sure but I think the tab should go up not down.
I do not think you can put it in wrong way, cause the float will not work the wrong way.
It will stop against the casting or the bowl.
But I can be wrong in this case.

 

[Tapphouse]

I think you are right about tab up. I got excited cause it will mount tab down and when carb is flipped the float would over fuel. I thot I had found my issue but a couple google pics show tab up like you say.

These carbs are clean! Stripped down and blown with compressed air, Floats are level, etc. I’ll put back together and move onto spark and timing.

 

[Tapphouse]

When setting distributor…… and looking down at flywheel what is + and what is -? Is left going up degrees like say 34* and right is going down like say 28*?
Also I read somewhere the tab is -4* ,is this a thing?
Thanks.

 

[Tapphouse]

Also my flywheel has 97 teeth. I numbered each one hahaha!!

 

[Tapphouse]

Setting TDC and distributor at “T” on pulley the #1 plug fires at one (1) tooth left of 32*. What degree am I set to/ firing at?
This timing stuff is hard on the head!
Thank you!

 

[Nordin]

Yes left of tab are higher advance as the flywheel turning CW.
If it sparks earlier before TDC it is more advanced.
I suppose your timing plate (tab) has five lines.
The one in center is 0, the two to the left are +4 and +2, the two to the right are -2 and -4 (from left to right +4, +2, 0, -2, and -4).
Maybe you have the sticker with the timing lines at the flywheel and you have just one line at the timing plate.
Then the line at the timing plate is the reference line and you have the number at the sticker such as 30, 32 or 34 and then lines both to the left and right of the number.
Each line are then 2 dgr.
From your description your timing at WOT is 32,5 ish BTDC.
Is the curved line at the pully lining up at the flywheel rim when the top piston is at TDC at idle (no throttle)?
This is the initial setting of the distributor (zero setting).

 

[Tapphouse]

My tab only has one line, it’s really a notch in the steel tab. All the timing makes are on the flywheel sticker. (I can’t send pics. Silver label with red writing on black backing)
My TDC lines up with distributor pully.
I have 97 teeth, #1 starts one to the right of TDC going counter clockwise. 97 is on TDC.
My plastic block is 5/8” gap.
32* is on tooth #88 and top #1 plug fires at tooth #87.

 

[Nordin]

Is your sticker for 32 dgr in the right place?
360/97 = 3,711 (each teeth is 3,711 drg).
97-88 = 9 then the 32 point is at 9x3,711 = 33,40 dgr.
Your timing is 87# teeth, that ends up with 97-87 = 10.
Your timing is set at 3,40x10 = 34 dgr, a bit too advanced.
I would suggest you to retard it to 28-30 dgr.
Factory spec. in those days was 32 dgr BTDC, the fuel today is not as good as back in the days these engines was built.
It is recommended to retard the timing to 30 dgr or a little less.
Are you running no ethanol fuel or E10 (if you have E10 in US).
I am in Sweden Europe and we have 95 octane E10 but you can buy 98 octane but do not know if it is E10 or E5 or no ethanol.

 

[Tapphouse]

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[Tapphouse]

That link I just sent is identical to the flywheel/sticker I have. It’s one mark to the left of 32*
How do I retard the timing more? Do I have enough block left to do so? It’s at 5/8” gap now, any more and it will be touching.
Running no ethanol fuel @ 50:1 mix.

 

[Nordin]

Yes I know that type of sticker.
When you says your engine fire at 87# teeth are you counting the tooth CCW from 0 teeth?

 

[Nordin]

Do not know if you open up the gap or closing it when retard,
To long time ago I did it.
But I think you do not have to screw the timing screw so much to get much retarding.