Century Coronado restore

[89 resorter]

sphelps/Wood, thanks for the dremel ideas for the spider crack areas :rockon:. As far as the water pox, they are pretty concentrated in certain areas so I plan on sanding those areas down to good glass and then feather from there.

fibersport, welcome aboard! I love the layout of the Cardel and you are right that for being the same basic hull, there is a lot of structural difference. Is yours an IO or a V-drive? Good call on the foam. When you look at the safety, sound damping and structural support it offers, it vastly outweighs the risk of it getting wet. Especially considering if you make sure to take care of the boat once restored, it will last another 30+ years. I look forward to following your rebuild thread and rest assured that you have come to the right forum to help guide you. The folks on this forum have a lot of boat refurb experience and will guide you and root you on through the entire process.

 

[Woodonglass]

Water Pox is a PITA!!!! The recommended method of repair is to sand em well with 60 grit and then use EPOXY paste to fill em. It will stick better and last longer than any other method.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Water Pox is a PITA!!!! The recommended method of repair is to sand em well with 60 grit and then use EPOXY paste to fill em. It will stick better and last longer than any other method.

Not to hijack, but can you explain to me what water pox is? Don't think I've seen this.....

 

[Woodonglass]

Water Pox or Blisters is a phenominon common to Gelcoat. This is a simplified explanation...They are caused by water being absorbed through the gelcoat and fiberglass laminates in the hull. The water absorbed causes changes in the physical makeup of the hull and reacts with the resins, which build up residues and finally raise blisters by increased pressure on voids between the laminate and theWater being absorbed through the gelcoat and fiberglass laminates in the hull causes blisters. ... The water absorbed causes changes in the physical makeup of the hull and reacts with the resins, which build up residues and finally raise blisters by increased pressure on voids between the laminate and the gelcoat.

 

[gm280]

In other words a boat with acne!

 

[kcassells]

[/QUOTE]

Ya know what is odd about this and maybe it's the short pic. But it appears as though the blisters started over areas that are reworked or a difference of material below the gelcoat. Almost forms a line that you can reference.
Do you recall doing that area with another type of glass or sealer?
KC

 

[Woodonglass]

KC, that's a pic I posted to show what "BoatPox" looks like. It is NOT the OP's boat. I have NO idea about the boat pictured!!!

 

[kcassells]

Rodger that.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Thanks WOG. My boat has a few issues, glad that's not one!!!

 

[89 resorter]

The water pox on my boat are found in concentrated pockets along the sides, just under the water line as well as on the bottom where the hull transitions from the sides to the bottom (this area is shown in the below pic). I was under the impression that using epoxy anywhere I will be gel coating will not work due to polly and epoxy being incompatible???? My plan was to sand those areas down to good glass and rebuild from there.



I got more of the rough sanding done on Saturday. Pretty much done with one side and the transom and hopefully will finish it off next weekend. I really went much faster now that I'm only sanding down to good gelcoat and not trying to get down to the glass.

 

[mickyryan]

makes ya wonder why pox is just right there and not all over huh . glad to see things progressing for ya

 

[gm280]

Sounds like you have a good plan to me now. The "Pox" areas can be sanded down further and repaired. But over all, you're on the right track now. :thumb:

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Wow, that looks like Braille. So once that is ground down and new gel coat applied is there any chance of it returning? I guess I just can't get how the water was absorbed or penetrated the gel coat.

 

[Woodonglass]

The water pox on my boat are found in concentrated pockets along the sides, just under the water line as well as on the bottom where the hull transitions from the sides to the bottom (this area is shown in the below pic). I was under the impression that using epoxy anywhere I will be gel coating will not work due to polly and epoxy being incompatible???? My plan was to sand those areas down to good glass and rebuild from there.

You are correct. Don't use epoxy, Just sand em down to the glass and then clean well. Pox can also be caused by airpockets in the glass soooo once the gel is off check for any pinholes or delam and then fill with Polyester fairing material to smooth out the little pockets. Hope that makes sense.

 

[89 resorter]

I should know if these ones were caused by pinholes or delam in the FG this weekend when I grind the patches of pox down. Hopefully I will also get the rest of the gel coating sanded so I can begin taking a good look at the spider cracks, chips and dings and begin formulating my plan of attack to getting them fixed.

 

[harleyman1975]

Nice work!

 

[89 resorter]

Did not get quite as much sanding done as I had hoped. The Admiral wanted to take one last motorcycle ride since the temps got into the upper 60's so there went my Saturday (oh darn, and I really wanted to sand). Yesterday I got about 1/2 of all of the water pox areas sanded down to fiberglass. While sanding I realized that they all have been right above the water line of the boat where the water constantly splashes. None below the waterline and none more than 4 inches or so above so perhaps there is a clue in there somewhere of the cause. I also snapped an up close picture showing what they look like right at the point where the sander breaks through the gel. You can see that the pox are the first things to open up through the gel and then you can still see dark "witness" marks in whatever the thin blue layer is between the gel and the fiberglass. Once I get to the glass there is no evidence of them at all. I am planning on taking this Friday off so hopefully I will have more progress to report next week.

 

[gm280]

Did not get quite as much sanding done as I had hoped. The Admiral wanted to take one last motorcycle ride since the temps got into the upper 60's so there went my Saturday (oh darn, and I really wanted to sand). Yesterday I got about 1/2 of all of the water pox areas sanded down to fiberglass. While sanding I realized that they all have been right above the water line of the boat where the water constantly splashes. None below the waterline and none more than 4 inches or so above so perhaps there is a clue in there somewhere of the cause. I also snapped an up close picture showing what they look like right at the point where the sander breaks through the gel. You can see that the pox are the first things to open up through the gel and then you can still see dark "witness" marks in whatever the thin blue layer is between the gel and the fiberglass. Once I get to the glass there is no evidence of them at all. I am planning on taking this Friday off so hopefully I will have more progress to report next week.

Interesting picture. It looks like you are using a pretty aggressive sanding paper grit from the circular scratch pattern in the picture. But it look like you are taking care of the POX as well.

 

[89 resorter]

GM, I am using the 36 grit to get it to the point where I get into the thin blue surface then I switch over to 80 grit with the board sander to remove the blue down to the bare fiberglass. I should have taken a picture of the same area once I was down to FG as it does not show any evidence of the marks.

 

[gm280]

GM, I am using the 36 grit to get it to the point where I get into the thin blue surface then I switch over to 80 grit with the board sander to remove the blue down to the bare fiberglass. I should have taken a picture of the same area once I was down to FG as it does not show any evidence of the marks.

89 resorter, don't take that statement as any kind of criticism. I was merely mentioning the scratch marks in the pictures. You have to use whatever it takes to get the job done. I use 40 grit to cut filler putty down quickly and then switch to 80 and then 180. So I know what it takes. I think you're doing a great job by the way. JMHO.