Can't get boat even on bunked trailer.

[Jimwhall]

So, as previously stated, my previous boat was a 16' Sylvan on a roller trailer. I put the back 1/3 of the trailer in the water and winched up; no problem. Boat always centered.

New boat is a 19' H190 on a bunked trailer. At the landing if I put in till the fenders are under, the aft end of the boat drifts like crazy and it's a bear to get it on straight. It's on a bit cockeyed now, but the bunks look like they are solidly supporting everything.

If I try to do like I did with my roller trailer, it's and absolute *BEAR* to winch on the trailer SUPER heavy. I'm afraid I'll rip the eye out if I keep doing it that way. It's like this even if I dip the bunks all the way in first.

I'm thinking about doing two things:

A) Get a silicone based bunk spray to spray the top 2/3 of the rollers.
B) installing PVC guides.

Will the silicone spray break things down over time? Or harm the glass on the hull? Will it make the hull more likely to slip off during trailering?

The guides I'm more comfortable with but they can only help so much, I'm guessing.

I realize this may all sound like cheating, but I'm kind of anal about how the boat sits on the trailer because it's there most of the time; and despite my previous experience I'm really failing at the roller to bunk trailer transition.

 

[jbcurt00]

I think you posted the problem in a prior topic

So I bought a 2016 H190. Its *significantly* heavier than the '95 Sylvan I'm used to; and it is on a bunked trailer as opposed to the Sylvan trailer.

I have two questions:

First; the Sylvan had a safety chain that went from the trailer winch post to the boat eye. This new one does not.
View attachment 343831

it just seems to use the winch. It does have integrated back straps which I like alot. Do I need to install a safety chain? Dry weight for the hull is about 2800lbs.

Second: The Sylvan I would load relatively dry; getting the back rollers in the water then winching the boat up. This prevented drift on the trailer and allowed the boat to center correctly.

With bunks, I'm assuming it has to be farther in the water? I tried winching itup kind of dry and my 13 YO son could do it, but only after we put it back in. How do we stop the drift from wave action? have the bunks just below the waterline?

THanks!

Light 16ft boat on rollers is going to load significantly different then a much heavier glass boat on bunks.

Convert to rollers, add bunk sliders and/or adapt the way you back the trailer into the water.

 

[Jimwhall]

I think you posted the problem in a prior topic


Light 16ft boat on rollers is going to load significantly different then a much heavier glass boat on bunks.

Convert to rollers, add bunk sliders and/or adapt the way you back the trailer into the water.

Is a bunk slider something like this?

will it damage the fiberglass on the boat? The ones I have looked at look like they are plastic.

 

[Jimwhall]

I think you posted the problem in a prior topic

Correct, sorry for the duplication. I had more specific questions in this though, particularly about the spray for the bunks, so I thought it warranted a new post. I'm happy to delete if you want.

 

[Scott06]

So, as previously stated, my previous boat was a 16' Sylvan on a roller trailer. I put the back 1/3 of the trailer in the water and winched up; no problem. Boat always centered.

New boat is a 19' H190 on a bunked trailer. At the landing if I put in till the fenders are under, the aft end of the boat drifts like crazy and it's a bear to get it on straight. It's on a bit cockeyed now, but the bunks look like they are solidly supporting everything.

If I try to do like I did with my roller trailer, it's and absolute *BEAR* to winch on the trailer SUPER heavy. I'm afraid I'll rip the eye out if I keep doing it that way. It's like this even if I dip the bunks all the way in first.

I'm thinking about doing two things:

A) Get a silicone based bunk spray to spray the top 2/3 of the rollers.
B) installing PVC guides.

Will the silicone spray break things down over time? Or harm the glass on the hull? Will it make the hull more likely to slip off during trailering?

The guides I'm more comfortable with but they can only help so much, I'm guessing.

I realize this may all sound like cheating, but I'm kind of anal about how the boat sits on the trailer because it's there most of the time; and despite my previous experience I'm really failing at the roller to bunk trailer transition.

Do you have side guides for the new trailer? I would suggest getting or adjusting them and putting the trailer in deeper. Bunk trailers need to be in more water than a roller trailer.

Yes the spray and the glides you mention will help it slide on if you prefer that route

 

[Jimwhall]

Do you have side guides for the new trailer? I would suggest getting or adjusting them and putting the trailer in deeper. Bunk trailers need to be in more water than a roller trailer.

Yes the spray and the glides you mention will help it slide on if you prefer that route

I don't have anything like that. I'll look online and see what I can do. Thank you!

Is it safer for the boat to have taller PVC types that hit the rub rails or longer bunk types that will hit the side of the boat? Worried about maybe a cross wave slamming it into the side bunks and cracking the side of the boat. But I might be paranoid.

 

[Scott06]

I don't have anything like that. I'll look online and see what I can do. Thank you!

Is it safer for the boat to have taller PVC types that hit the rub rails or longer bunk types that will hit the side of the boat? Worried about maybe a cross wave slamming it into the side bunks and cracking the side of the boat. But I might be paranoid.

Yes you are being a little paranoid. Its a new boat and Im sure a big investment. but If the waves are that big you wont be going out.. I have the taller pvc covered ones they hit the rub rail vs against the gel coat, but Im sure either style will work. you may want to check how far they stick out vs the width of any garage door you may want to get through.

 

[JASinIL2006]

The taller PVC guides are more of a visual aid to help you locate the end of the trailer; in many cases, they are really not intended to guide the boat. (The flat, carpeted guides are better for that.) My boat was hit by gust of wind that pushed it into a PVC guide and it was enough to bend the metal bracket a bit.

Spraying silicone spray onto carpeted bunks can help a great deal. Just be sure the bunks are dry when you apply the silicone. Silicone won't hurt your boat or trailer at all, although you may need to reapply more than once a year.

Getting your trailer into the water at just the right depth takes some experimenting, and you also have to keep in mind the steepness of the ramp. For my trailer, I don't submerge the trailer fenders completely on steep ramps, while on shallow ramps, I have to back in deeper.

 

[MRS]

Do you dunk the trailer first to get all your bunk boards wet first? Then pull up to where you need the trailer.

 

[hugh g]

What type of covering is on the bunks? I had a 19 ftr that I never power loaded. I would pull the boat forward as far as I could with a line tied to a bow cleat. Then I would winch the boat forward to the stop & that was it. And I ain't no muscle head. It was a breeze & I don't see why your boat is so hard to winch onto the trailer.

 

[Jimwhall]

What type of covering is on the bunks? I had a 19 ftr that I never power loaded. I would pull the boat forward as far as I could with a line tied to a bow cleat. Then I would winch the boat forward to the stop & that was it. And I ain't no muscle head. It was a breeze & I don't see why your boat is so hard to winch onto the trailer.

Not sure. It's a Four Winn's factory trailer.

 

[JimS123]

If its a factory trailer, then the bunks should be adjusted to allow the boat to self-center. Your issue is a classic excuse for backing in too deep. We see it EVERY DAY at local ramps.

If you cannot physically crank the boat on, then you need to put EZ-Slides on the bunks. Silicone spray may be OK, as long as you are willing to do things over once in awhile.

Our experience with bunk slides has indicated that they work almost as good as rollers.

Another option is to install a Powerwinch (brand) electric winch. I have one on each of my trailers, just because I'm too lazy to crank even if I have EZ-Slides.

 

[poconojoe]

I have my trailer fenders just covered with water which leaves about a 1/4 of the bunks out of the water. You need that little bit of friction and the bunks need to cradle, support the boat. You can't have the boat floating all over the place.
It's all about knowing your setup. Once you get a routine, just repeat.
I coast my boat into the trailer and it self centers every time.

 

[racerone]

I put the rear roller in the water.-----Start pulling the boat on the trailer.----If effort gets to much I back trailer in 5 or 6 feet.----Repeat as needed.----Put my 30 ' Scarab Sport on the trailer with no help.----Folks sometimes offer help , but I say " no thanks " and boat always sits nicely on the trailer.

 

[Jimwhall]

If its a factory trailer, then the bunks should be adjusted to allow the boat to self-center. Your issue is a classic excuse for backing in too deep. We see it EVERY DAY at local ramps.

If you cannot physically crank the boat on, then you need to put EZ-Slides on the bunks. Silicone spray may be OK, as long as you are willing to do things over once in awhile.

Our experience with bunk slides has indicated that they work almost as good as rollers.

Another option is to install a Powerwinch (brand) electric winch. I have one on each of my trailers, just because I'm too lazy to crank even if I have EZ-Slides.

LOL I know. I went from being a good trailer guy to THAT GUY! I"m still practicing, trying on off days when no one is around so I'm not clogging stuff up. The bunk slides look plastic, they don't scratch the boat? Is there a type/brand you can recommend?

 

[Jimwhall]

I have my trailer fenders just covered with water which leaves about a 1/4 of the bunks out of the water. You need that little bit of friction and the bunks need to cradle, support the boat. You can't have the boat floating all over the place.
It's all about knowing your setup. Once you get a routine, just repeat.
I coast my boat into the trailer and it self centers every time.

Do I have to worry about damaging the eye by putting too much pressure on it?

 

[Cortes100]

I would experiment with how deep you back the trailer . Get the bunks wet before loading boat. Your factory trailer is exactly like mine and the boat centers no problem. Can easily winch up 1-3 ft. Load solo all the time.
There's nothing wrong with what you have, you just have to figure out the proper angles and depths.

 

[poconojoe]

Yep, it's all about depth.
You will get it. You just have to figure out the sweet spot and then you're golden.

I idle toward the trailer and when I know my aim is good I kill the engine, raise the drive and the boat rides right up onto the bunks. Centers every time.
I reach over the bow and clip the winch strap onto the bow eye.
I climb over the bow (bowrider), stepping onto the trailer tongue and winch the boat the remaining 2 foot or so.
Stepping onto the ground, I never get my feet wet. Ever.

 

[JimS123]

LOL I know. I went from being a good trailer guy to THAT GUY! I"m still practicing, trying on off days when no one is around so I'm not clogging stuff up. The bunk slides look plastic, they don't scratch the boat? Is there a type/brand you can recommend?

Plastic? Yeah... Its made out of a high density polymeric ethylene based material. I've used Ironwood's E-Z Slides for about 20 years now on several trailers. I have been so happy with them that I would never consider an alternate brand. The bunk enders make for a slick job. I see some surface chalking of the pads, but the boat bottom is clean.

 

[89retta]

Just saw your other post about the boat bouncing. I would replace your winch. Even though its new , its a cheap generic one. Get a good 2 speed winch. It will make loading so much easier for you.