can someone tell me what motors are in a 1987 28' Chris-Craft 283 Amerosport 262 ?

kick1230

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Hi friend has an

1987 28' Chris-Craft 283 Amerosport inboard twin 262 ,anyone know what or who makes the motors or were to get parts ? Thanks​

 

Scott Danforth

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What color are the motors? Blue would be crusader, red will be volvo, black will ve mercruiser, charcoal will be OMC
 

kick1230

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Hi thank you there blue. Can you tell me anything about them . We're to get parts etc ? Thank you for any links or help
 

Lou C

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Is 262 the cubic inch displacement? If so they could be GM 4.3 V6s. Engine parts are GM but the add ons are from whoever marinized the engines. Older Chris Craft engines were blue like Crusaders I think...
 

kick1230

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Yes 262 it's a 1987 twin inboard .My friend s husband past away and I'm trying to help her with them. She says they have points....I thought they were g.m motors
 

kick1230

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Ok give me bit. She did just send me this one had no luck with the cereal number.... I'll get more pics for you .and thank you so much
 

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kick1230

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ok thank you did look them over not much info on the older ones ,see if I can call when open , off hand do you know if her older v-6 take same parts as a GM block ? Need a water pump,I am a wsm dealer found the one that fits the v-6 and v-8 ,not sure if its rite one yet ,Im sorry to keep asking Im been boating whole life just not inboards...I own a sea doo service co Thank you again for your help !!
 

Lou C

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The older V6s do take GM parts for all the internal mechanical parts but the front water pump will be a marine Chevy small block pump. If the engine uses open cooling (no heat exchanger) you have to use a marine pump with better quality parts inside, if you have a heat exchanger with antifreeze in the engine you can use an automotive pump. The other parts must be marine specific (carburator, distributor, alternator, back fire flame arrestor instead of an air cleaner, and marine mechanical fuel pump with the yellow safety overflow hose). These are very simple engines, that are pretty easy to keep going, based on the age they might have Rochester Quadrajet carbs, and a Prestolite or Mallory points distributor. Auto shop 101 circa 1966 or so. Easy for us old guys lol.
Do they look like this pic?
 

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kick1230

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The older V6s do take GM parts for all the internal mechanical parts but the front water pump will be a marine Chevy small block pump. If the engine uses open cooling (no heat exchanger) you have to use a marine pump with better quality parts inside, if you have a heat exchanger with antifreeze in the engine you can use an automotive pump. The other parts must be marine specific (carburator, distributor, alternator, back fire flame arrestor instead of an air cleaner, and marine mechanical fuel pump with the yellow safety overflow hose). These are very simple engines, that are pretty easy to keep going, based on the age they might have Rochester Quadrajet carbs, and a Prestolite or Mallory points distributor. Auto shop 101 circa 1966 or so. Easy for us old guys lol.
Do they look like this pic?
Hi and a big thank you ! i did get a marine water pump as shes in salt water it is open cooling . It is a q, jet carb also I only saw the motor once so far, no p/s and alt is mounted lower . She did say she has points... would like to upgrade them asap....cant believe she still has them. Need to see what dis she has next Thank you so much !!!! You know were to look for parts or dis upgrade ?
 

Lou C

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Well if you ask on here, you will get mixed opinions on getting rid of points. Some like the Petronix system some have had repeated failures. I kept my points because I know how to set them up and no electronic mystery boxes to go wrong. If you have a Prestolite, they aren't hard to change, just a little fiddly, I would remove the point plate at the same time and make sure the advance weights and springs underneath are still ok and not rusted up. I keep a spare points plate with the points and condenseor already installed on my boat and a feeler gauge. So if I have a failure I can change them easily. For this boat, if the advance weights and springs are not rusted up, just lube them, install new points, condenser cap and rotor. The best conversion is a Delco EST but that's expensive 2x engines.
Here's the Prestolite, simple, auto shop 101 circa 1966 again. I prefer points to electronic mystery boxes. The wick in the center of the distributor shaft is to lube the advance weights, a couple drops of motor oil once a season. That and a bit of dist cam lube on the cam lobes. I usually change them after 4-5 seasons or when they get burned. Each season I change the cap n rotor, and check the points, if they look good and the engine starts easy I leave em alone.
 

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kick1230

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Well if you ask on here, you will get mixed opinions on getting rid of points. Some like the Petronix system some have had repeated failures. I kept my points because I know how to set them up and no electronic mystery boxes to go wrong. If you have a Prestolite, they aren't hard to change, just a little fiddly, I would remove the point plate at the same time and make sure the advance weights and springs underneath are still ok and not rusted up. I keep a spare points plate with the points and condenseor already installed on my boat and a feeler gauge. So if I have a failure I can change them easily. For this boat, if the advance weights and springs are not rusted up, just lube them, install new points, condenser cap and rotor. The best conversion is a Delco EST but that's expensive 2x engines.
Here's the Prestolite, simple, auto shop 101 circa 1966 again. I prefer points to electronic mystery boxes. The wick in the center of the distributor shaft is to lube the advance weights, a couple drops of motor oil once a season. That and a bit of dist cam lube on the cam lobes. I usually change them after 4-5 seasons or when they get burned. Each season I change the cap n rotor, and check the points, if they look good and the engine starts easy I leave em alone.
I got your point on points,I know how to set them n.p Just didnt think a good idea being on the water , but....maybe ill leave them I just thougth better easier starts electronic I put the marolley electronic kit on my 69 stang and its all under cap very simple with the MSD too. The one motor is a bit hard to start I will look over dis,she said cap points wires last year
 

Lou C

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start with checking dwell, timing and idle speed
then change fuel filters
Q-Jets might need a rebuild I've done those too....
 

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kick1230

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start with checking dwell, timing and idle speed
then change fuel filters
Q-Jets might need a rebuild I've done those too....
yep was my plan you know the dewll setting timing settings ? Think its new filters Q jet does shoot a good full shot of fuel when hit ,one was rebuilt but this one is pained blue so thinking not and I so hate q jets...lol give me a Holley any day do them eyes closed Again thank you so much
 

Lou C

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I've had the opposite experience with QJet vs Holleys. I "though" my old Qjet was too old to rebuild properly, and "foolishly" replaced it with a brand new Holley that was calibrated for my V6 and the damn thing never ran right, made me waste a season friggin' round with it. Ran rich, surged, turned 2 sets of plugs black, etc. Finally in disgust pulled the QJet off the shelf and rebuilt it on my swim platform in 2 hrs. 100% better running. I think Holley has some hit and miss quality problems!
If a Prestolite, dwell is 39* + or - 2*, timing, 6*BTDC, total timing advance on mine is only 18* (6* base + 12* centrifugal).
 

kick1230

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I've had the opposite experience with QJet vs Holleys. I "though" my old Qjet was too old to rebuild properly, and "foolishly" replaced it with a brand new Holley that was calibrated for my V6 and the damn thing never ran right, made me waste a season friggin' round with it. Ran rich, surged, turned 2 sets of plugs black, etc. Finally in disgust pulled the QJet off the shelf and rebuilt it on my swim platform in 2 hrs. 100% better running. I think Holley has some hit and miss quality problems!
If a Prestolite, dwell is 39* + or - 2*, timing, 6*BTDC, total timing advance on mine is only 18* (6* base + 12* centrifugal).
the holley may have been needed to be set up better ,jetting and power valve ,your q jet was all set for that motor Does take time to read plugs etc Iv been doing them 40 years did 2 q jets...hate them lol You still have the holley ? ok thank you hope I still have dwell meter lol She still has old coils you think good idea to swap out new ?
 

Lou C

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Coils rarely go bad but you never know. The Holley 4160 was specifically set up for the OMC & Volvo 4.3s, they used them from 1990 until the end of carb use. I must have gotten a bad one.
 

kick1230

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Coils rarely go bad but you never know. The Holley 4160 was specifically set up for the OMC & Volvo 4.3s, they used them from 1990 until the end of carb use. I must have gotten a bad one.
ok thanks Ill leave them .may have had a leaking power valve... thank you for all the help has been very helpful to me
 

Lou C

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ok thanks Ill leave them .may have had a leaking power valve... thank you for all the help has been very helpful to me
You’re welcome. Believe it or not this Holley calibrated for those V6 marine engines does not use a power valve. Yes I know it’s hard to believe but true; the main jets are bigger to compensate.
 
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