Cabin rebuilt Project - cabin to deck joint

dzausta

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Re: Cabin rebuilt Project - cabin to deck joint

Here are some photos showing how I went back and forth deciding how the shape will look with the rest of the boat.

IMG_0942-copy.jpg
 

dzausta

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Re: Cabin rebuilt Project - cabin to deck joint

Next step was adding draft to the sides of the cabin this was for aesthetic reasons as well as construction reasons, as at this point I haven?t decided how I was going to fibreglass the whole thing. I was tossing between constricting it using a mold or just build a moldless form. If I decided to go with the mold having draft to the side would help me pull out my part from the plug. Anyhow I did this constructing a little CNC like jig and a drill.

IMG_1533-copy.jpg IMG_1535-copy.jpg IMG_1536-copy.jpg IMG_1537-copy.jpg

By pressing the jig against my plywood laminate and sliding the drill up and down I was able to get pretty smooth, even and consistent draft along the whole form.
 

dzausta

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Re: Cabin rebuilt Project

Re: Cabin rebuilt Project

Length of the cabin was important in order to get the proportions looking right but this was difficult without having the windscreen.


IMG_1104-copy.jpg IMG_1099-copy.jpg IMG_1101-copy.jpg


I tried making a wooden frame substituting a windshield to give me a rough idea how it would look but that didn?t work too well. After getting some quotes for a a custom made windshield I opted for a off the shelf windscreen (one place quoted me $15K AUST to custom make a windshield for me).
 

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Georgesalmon

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Re: Cabin rebuilt Project

Re: Cabin rebuilt Project

I made a hardtop using foam like you are. After i had the foam shaped I covered it with shrink wrap and waxed over the shrink wrap with auto wax a few times. Then I laid up the fiberglass over it and ripped out all the foam and wood underneath it. Worked well and released OK, just a few spots caused trouble where the plastic stuck. I should have used a mold release wax as it has a higher heat resistance.
 

a1964rn

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Oct 18, 2012
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Re: Cabin rebuilt Project - cabin to deck joint

Nice Job! Can't wait to see the finished product.
Good Luck!
 

dzausta

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Nov 28, 2011
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Re: Cabin rebuilt Project

Re: Cabin rebuilt Project

After the windscreen was fitted things went on a lot smoother. I could see how the cabin needed to be shaped.

IMG_1130-copy.jpg IMG_1123 copy.jpg IMG_1197-copy.jpg

To fit the windshield I put duct tape on the bottom of the windshield frame, positioned it to how I wanted it than poured expandable foam around the gaps. That way I was able to get perfect fit for the windshield.

* Tip: When working with expandable foam I found that using a standard kitchen seal bag was much easier to pour foam with. I would mix up the foam in a seal bag by shaking it vigorously,than just cut an edge of the bag and pour it wherever needed. Pouring foam from a cup was very tricky when pouring in tight spots and caused much wastage, using a seal bag eliminated this.
 

dzausta

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Joined
Nov 28, 2011
Messages
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Re: Cabin rebuilt Project

Re: Cabin rebuilt Project

I made a hardtop using foam like you are. After i had the foam shaped I covered it with shrink wrap and waxed over the shrink wrap with auto wax a few times. Then I laid up the fiberglass over it and ripped out all the foam and wood underneath it. Worked well and released OK, just a few spots caused trouble where the plastic stuck. I should have used a mold release wax as it has a higher heat resistance.

George I am stuck right there atm. I am thinking of doing that (waxing than spraying PVA, than lay up fiberglass on top, but I am worried how flat will the surface be for the gelcoat. Should I use cloth or CSM for the final layer before spraying gelcoat? How flat does it have to be not to print out through gelcoat?

Currently my plug is close to perfect that's why I am considering creating a mould to have that gelcoat gloss and eliminate sanding but the labour and cost is just not worth it.
What do you think?
 

sevanseriesta

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Jul 12, 2012
Messages
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Re: Cabin rebuilt Project

Re: Cabin rebuilt Project

Impressive, When you first started I said to myself, I dont know if that will look right.... Damn I regret that, its looking great.
 

dzausta

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Nov 28, 2011
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Re: Cabin rebuilt Project - cabin to deck joint

Nice Job! Can't wait to see the finished product.
Good Luck!

I love this Custom work. Nice Job!!!

Thanks guys, good to hear encouraging words, let me just say I think writing this post I'm making things sound a lot easier than thay actually are, there's a lottttt of hours involved there. Love it tho
 

Georgesalmon

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Re: Cabin rebuilt Project

Re: Cabin rebuilt Project

I have done a lot of mold building over the years and Have had both good success and bad failure. Worked in the boat industry for over 35 years at several companies. You have a lot going for you on this project. If your "plug" is really perfect i would suggest dojng this: First if you want a good release spray the PVA first on a very clean surface so it sticks really good several dry coats and a then a wet one to flow it all out. You need a thick layer of PVA. THEN very carefully wax over the PVA. Yes it works I've had good sucess doing this. You do have to wax easily so you don't tear the PVA.

As far as glass finish goes I don't think it matters what you finish with as long as its not WR, lol. With CSM you can easily fill any low spots to help with fairing before you spray gelcoat. I'd suggest that after you finish with fiberglass you get some dyechem metal dye. Dilute it with acetone and rub it all over. Then use long board sanding on the glass and you'll see the low spots very clearly and you can keep sanding or use fairing material or a high build primer to fill those low spots. Durateck (fourseal?)makes some really great polyester primers that sand easily and make fairing a breeze. Remember that a good gelcoat thickness is only 18 to 20 mills and your substrate has to be better than that or you will sand through it, just sayin. No matter how you do it if you want a gelcoat surface your in for a lot of wet sanding and buffing doing it backwards. Making a mold from your plug and then a part from the mold doesn't make sense to me for a "one off" like your doing.
 

dzausta

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Joined
Nov 28, 2011
Messages
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Re: Cabin rebuilt Project - cabin to deck joint

OK so next part was a little tricky. Me being a bit of a perfectionist I wanted the cabin to follow the lines of the boat. To achieve this I had to round off the front of the cabin and that was pretty simple but replicating it on the other side was a little tricky as it was my first time doing something like this. Anyhow I came on top after a while, but it was hard work. Its a little hard to see the contours on these photos but I'll take some more tomorrow.


IMG_1197-copy.jpg IMG_1530-copy.jpg



To get the right curve of the cabin I left the edges sharp just so that I can see the lines easier. After I was completely happy with the shape I rounded of the edges of my form using a drill out piece of wood with some 60 grid sandpaper glued to the contours. Going few times over the edge was all it took to get the right shape.
 

dzausta

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Nov 28, 2011
Messages
41
Re: Cabin rebuilt Project

Re: Cabin rebuilt Project

I have done a lot of mold building over the years and Have had both good success and bad failure. Worked in the boat industry for over 35 years at several companies. You have a lot going for you on this project. If your "plug" is really perfect i would suggest dojng this: First if you want a good release spray the PVA first on a very clean surface so it sticks really good several dry coats and a then a wet one to flow it all out. You need a thick layer of PVA. THEN very carefully wax over the PVA. Yes it works I've had good sucess doing this. You do have to wax easily so you don't tear the PVA.

As far as glass finish goes I don't think it matters what you finish with as long as its not WR, lol. With CSM you can easily fill any low spots to help with fairing before you spray gelcoat. I'd suggest that after you finish with fiberglass you get some dyechem metal dye. Dilute it with acetone and rub it all over. Then use long board sanding on the glass and you'll see the low spots very clearly and you can keep sanding or use fairing material or a high build primer to fill those low spots. Durateck (fourseal?)makes some really great polyester primers that sand easily and make fairing a breeze. Remember that a good gelcoat thickness is only 18 to 20 mills and your substrate has to be better than that or you will sand through it, just sayin. No matter how you do it if you want a gelcoat surface your in for a lot of wet sanding and buffing doing it backwards. Making a mold from your plug and then a part from the mold doesn't make sense to me for a "one off" like your doing.

Ahhh having that much experience would certainly come in real handy ! This was a great learning experience for me. Still a lot to learn in order to see this project to the end. I think you just solved my dilemma, I really didnt want to sand FG on the final layer (if I did moldless form), but now it looks like I dont have to. I could just use polyester primer to fill the weave than just sand the primer down ye?

Following was my plan, please tell me if this is a good way to go about doing it, and if you would/wouldnt do it this way.
If you look at the last photo you can see that my plug comes in 2 parts. One is the foam bit and the other is the plywood laminate.
Now, to get the best finish I thought on what if I drop 4 layers of 20oz cloth over the whole thing than 1 layer of really fine cloth to get a smoother finish than sand it down flat (this part I was dreading) but now I could just fill the weave with a primer than sand the primer flat and ready for gelcoat.

After laying the final cloth layer I would pull out the foam plug, prepare and fiberglass the inside of the previously layed layers. This leaves me with sandwiched plywood leminate.

I thought id do it this way so that I can have a smooth top layer (minimize sanding), right thickness and sandwiched plywood. Also cant do too many layers on the outside otherwise ill lose the windscreen channel and it wont fit.

Does this make sense, its a little late here ? Thanks
 

dzausta

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Messages
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Re: Cabin rebuilt Project

Re: Cabin rebuilt Project

Next step was glassing the foam and getting it smooth. First of all I had to fill the holes in the foam as few voids were created during the foam pour. To get better adhesion I mixed up the cheapest resin I had lying around and added in a lightweight filler to thicken up the resin a bit and fill in foam cells as much as possible. When the resin set I filled and sanded the voids.


IMG_1397-copy.jpg


I added white pigment to the resin that's why it looks white. The black stuff is light spray of paint so that I can see my low spots after a light sand.
 

dzausta

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Joined
Nov 28, 2011
Messages
41
Re: Cabin rebuilt Project

Re: Cabin rebuilt Project

Giving the whole thing a light sand and I was ready to lay my first layer of fibreglass. I had to lay a layer of cloth to be able to fill and sand out my low spots. If I was to block sand it without the cloth I would just sand through the layer of resin to the foam and create more uneven surface.


IMG_1430-copy.jpg
 

dzausta

Seaman Apprentice
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Messages
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Re: Cabin rebuilt Project

Re: Cabin rebuilt Project

Impressive, When you first started I said to myself, I dont know if that will look right.... Damn I regret that, its looking great.


Thanks mate, I'm still worried if it will look right. :)
 

Georgesalmon

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Re: Cabin rebuilt Project

Re: Cabin rebuilt Project

Looks really good. You got the right ideas going there. I think your gonna be very happy when all done.
 

dzausta

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Nov 28, 2011
Messages
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Re: Cabin rebuilt Project

Re: Cabin rebuilt Project

Hey Georgesalmon did you read my question for you?
 
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