building my own anchor pulpit

[boatman37]

been keeping an eye out for an anchor pulpit cheap but thought maybe i would build my own? i figured 2 pieces of 3/4" ply glued together and shaped. if i am going to gel coat it do i need to fiberglass it too or just waterproof then gel coat over that?

no windlass. just figured i would build one and install a stainless roller and add a hole of some sort to let the chain/rope pass through into the locker. i would think it would make anchor retrieval and deployment much easier? thoughts were that it would be a cheap enough project to learn on. if i screwed it up then no big deal and if it worked it would be a cheap add on that should be helpful.

 

[alldodge]

What kind of boat, and does it have a bow rail?

 

[jbcurt00]

What do you intend to waterproof it w?

 

[boatman37]

1986 sundancer with bow rail. the bow rail does not attach where the new pulpit would be. the 2 front center posts are about 2" to the outside of each side of the pulpit 'indentation'. i probably wouldn't be installing this until after this season so i would have all summer to design and build this. as far as waterproofing, probably something along the lines of woodonglass's formula or whatever is suggested here.


my plan would be to
remove the anchor locker hatch and run the new pulpit all the way back to cover the locker and cut a hole into the pulpit to feed the rode into the locker. my other question would be how to help keep rain water, etc., out of the locker? would i need a shroud over the hole or just not worry about rain getting into the locker and let it drain out the drain?

this isn't mine but the same model:

 

[alldodge]

Pics always work best, and being that there are several different sizes I'm guessing it is around the 27 foot range. Something like this



I would think that it will take some reinforcement of the deck under it. Won't be able to just put screws thru the deck, they need to go into something larger to disburse the load. Buddy of mine, also installed a winch.

Do you want the pulpit to just stand on or hold the anchor rode?

 

[GA_Boater]

The pulpit will need reinforcement as AD said or it's gonna pull out.

You're gonna dump dripping wet anchor rode and chain in the locker - No need to worry about a little rain through the hawse.

 

[jbcurt00]

WOGs formula, straight spar or any similar isnt going to provide a stable base for gelcoat. Its a polyester based product. It needs to be put on over polyester resin and glass.

Gelcoat has adhesion problems over epoxy, so thats out too.

 

[boatman37]

yeah, its a 25'er. and i am definitely reinforcing the underside. probably overkill too but thats how i usually do things...lol. i was thinking a 3/8" aluminum plate under the whole front section and then a smaller piece of the same 3/8" aluminum under the rear of the hatch opening to hold the aft end down too? if i have a big enough piece of aluminum (i don't think i do) i will cut it to match pulpit in one big piece with the hatch opening cut out too. is there any issue with mating aluminum up to the gel coat?

no intentions of walking on it but want it strong and reliable. never know when somebody may need to step on it in an emergency

 

[Scott Danforth]

there is nothing cheap about boats. buying a bow pulpit will be about same price as making a quality pulpit

quick google search

here is a teak one https://cnj.craigslist.org/boa/6009321925.html

here are fiberglass ones http://www.yachtsofstuff.com/userpo...e65ate76LOSgZ-g6V49tR8HiaoyDBlvQQAaApAf8P8HAQ

here is a general listing of a variety of them https://www.finecomb.com/web?qsrc=9...=marine bow pulpits&dqi=&am=broad&an=google_s

if your going to build your own, fiberglass it, then gel coat it, or build it out of wood that can be exposed like teak

regarding aluminum plate, make sure to seal the edges with UV stable 4200 so water doesnt get trapped under it and start corroding. raw aluminum corrodes fast

 

[boatman37]

still toying around with this idea. how about using this plywood? http://www.homedepot.com/p/Columbia...anel-Free-Custom-Cut-Available-1888/203553013

it isn't marine grade but will that matter if i seal it up good? i need about 18"x36". 2 of these glued together to make 1.5" think and sealed well should do the trick? 1.5" may even be overkill?

 

[boatman37]

still toying around with this idea. how about using this plywood? http://www.homedepot.com/p/Columbia...anel-Free-Custom-Cut-Available-1888/203553013

it isn't marine grade but will that matter if i seal it up good? i need about 18"x36". 2 of these glued together to make 1.5" think and sealed well should do the trick? 1.5" may even be overkill?

should add, i would not be wrapping this with fiberglass, only coating with some sealer concoction and maybe urethane the whole thing

 

[alldodge]

You could use that but it has a very thin layer of Mahogany, so clear coating it will look nice for a while, but IMO won't last. I would suggest the easy way is get exterior plywood, then coat with epoxy paint

 

[boatman37]

ugh...was hoping that might work. trying to make it look good too so painting exterior plywood is out. i'd rather leave it as is. guess i will probably just hold off until we get a bigger boat. i think a used teak pulpit will be too short to cover my locker door unless it was designed for a windlass then it will probably have too many hole and i don't want to install a windlass on this boat. too much work for all the longer i;m hoping to keep it

 

[Woodonglass]

You can use that Plywood IF you seal it with epoxy. You'll see the natural wood and it'll be waterproof. At first you said you wanted to gelcoat it, Now you want it to be A Naturale' I'm confused. What's the finished product gunna look like???

 

[boatman37]

You can use that Plywood IF you seal it with epoxy. You'll see the natural wood and it'll be waterproof. At first you said you wanted to gelcoat it, Now you want it to be A Naturale' I'm confused. What's the finished product gunna look like???

well natural would be easier and probably look better but i didn't think i would be able to find anything that would look too good so i was thinking about glassing. i don't want a 'plywood' look but the mahogany skinned plywood looks pretty good.

 

[boatman37]

actually after looking at Teds install i may not need the wood or fiberglass. my objective is to let the anchor hang from the roller as his did. i can still leave my rope/chain in the locker. i was only using the wood to mount the roller and extend it out a little. i didn't realize rollers could mount like that without the pulpit. i may have to look into that. i just think launching and retrieving the anchor would be easier for me if it were already hanging out front due to my physical limitations. my anchor locker hatch isn't in great shape so i could cut a hole for the rope to go through then look for an alternative later.

is this feasible? i don't have the boat here so i can't get measurements but i know the the rear of my hatch to the front of the bow is about 30" (i was thinking about 36" for the pulpit). my hatch is about 17" wide and close to square so about 15" long, which means i have roughly 15" of flat deck area in front of my hatch to mount the roller.

the wood/fiberglass was only to serve as a base to mount the roller on

 

[alldodge]

What about stainless steel?

 

[shaw520]

I built one for my SeaRay 230 about 3 yrs ago, worked out fabulous!,... here is the thread.
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...-and-hull-repair/662291-building-a-bow-pulpit

 

[boatman37]

yeah, i think i can get away with just the stainless roller. i was thinking i NEEDED the wood under it but after seeing Teds pictures i guess not. that would be perfect and much easier (probably look better too)

 

[boatman37]

that looks good shaw. i really doubt mine would turn out that nice though. using just the stainless roller will be much neater for me...lol. if i do decide to keep it a few more years and go the windlass route then i will probably copy-cat yours