Building a '93 Caravelle 1750 Classic Bowrider

Reserector_

Chief Petty Officer" & 2021 Splash of the Year Win
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So the pump is fine. The gauge adapter was not opening the Shroeder valve on my test port.

Next, I readjusted the rockers to quiet some clatter.
 

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Reserector_

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Next, I adjusted timing. I never could get base timing set with the shunt that I made, so I ordered one and it was no better.
Now as soon as I connect 12v to the third wire on the shunt, it stalls.
The book says that after setting base timing, check advance: should be 15° at 1,000 rpm, so I set it to that. Advance works, and is revs cheerfully now.
No clue why the shunt makes it stall.
 
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Reserector_

Chief Petty Officer" & 2021 Splash of the Year Win
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With the timing set and the manifold we'll sealed, I was able to set the idle mixture.
Aside from all of the above, I finally washed it and applied Ceramic coat spray on stuff. Quite impressed with it so far.
 

Reserector_

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Today was splash number 2!!


This was also the first time I ever launched it by myself. There was a storm building up very quickly, which added to the excitement.
I took off, and headed east. About a minute later, I made a turn to head back and could see the wall of rain already on the lake. At that point, I realized I wouldn't make it back to the ramp before slamming into it, so I did what anyone would do; get some more video. Haha.
I made a few noob mistakes, but thankfully, I didn't break anything. So much to keep track of, and I'm learning quickly.
Left the lower unit down again when bringing it up the ramp and again, the Skeggard saved the day. Sure it was pouring rain, but I need failsafe reminder system. Any ideas?
 

wshekar

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Sure it was pouring rain, but I need failsafe reminder system. Any ideas?

I laminated a checklist to help me remember everything. It is pretty easy to leave a drive down in all the excitement of a busy or rushed departure.

 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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but I need failsafe reminder system. Any ideas?
put a tag on the truck keys with the following:
trailer lights
outdrive
plug

reminding you to make sure to unplug your trailer lights, raise the outdrive and pull the plug on the ram.

I have the words plug and lights written on the transom straps
 

Reserector_

Chief Petty Officer" & 2021 Splash of the Year Win
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Thanks, Scott. Good suggestions.
I was thinking that something in the truck might work.
 

Reserector_

Chief Petty Officer" & 2021 Splash of the Year Win
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Indeed, this was the milestone that marks the end of the build. There is more I want to do, but that is all fluff and accessories.
I need to update my cost sheets, but I am still near the 5K original estimate on parts, materials and consumables. I originally said one year, but after a few months it was becoming clear that my family life was on hold, and that was never the plan. There was a point where I made a conscious decision to limit my boat time to keep my family first.
That pushed it out to two years, but I have no regrets. If I'd kept going like I was, they would all have resented the boat. Glad that never happened.

I feel very accomplished. :)
 

Reserector_

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Here's an idea I have been brainstorming:
Use the resistance signal from the tilt/trim sensor to trigger a pair of switches. Probably using NPN transisters or and op amp with a pair of potentiometers to choose the trigger points.

One would activate a light if the drive is UP (out of the water) and the key is switched ON.

The other would activate a light if the drive is DOWN (low enough to drag when on the trailer) and the key is switched OFF.

Granted, there will be times when I will shut the engine off when anchored, or just stopped, but I will be able to adjust the trigger to a point where it only warns me if the drive is in the range that would hit the ground while on the trailer. Would be easy to raise it a bit to make the light go out. Small inconvenience compared to killing the skeg.
Same goes for the UP warning; Only if the drive is high enough to suck wind if I start the engine. Even with muffs, it's not good to start it with it fully raised.

Your thoughts before I pursue the electronic part of this?
 

GSPLures

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Here's an idea I have been brainstorming:
Use the resistance signal from the tilt/trim sensor to trigger a pair of switches. Probably using NPN transisters or and op amp with a pair of potentiometers to choose the trigger points.

One would activate a light if the drive is UP (out of the water) and the key is switched ON.

The other would activate a light if the drive is DOWN (low enough to drag when on the trailer) and the key is switched OFF.

Granted, there will be times when I will shut the engine off when anchored, or just stopped, but I will be able to adjust the trigger to a point where it only warns me if the drive is in the range that would hit the ground while on the trailer. Would be easy to raise it a bit to make the light go out. Small inconvenience compared to killing the skeg.
Same goes for the UP warning; Only if the drive is high enough to suck wind if I start the engine. Even with muffs, it's not good to start it with it fully raised.

Your thoughts before I pursue the electronic part of this?
If you go that route check out a arduino microchip. They are not expensive and you can program it to do just about anything you can think of. I bought one a few years back to spend time and teach my son about building things. They are pretty cool just to mess around with i was contemplating what I could use it for on my boat.
 

Reserector_

Chief Petty Officer" & 2021 Splash of the Year Win
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Third outing. Trailering, launch and retrieval were blunder-free this time.

FB_IMG_1627253152859.jpg

Took the whole family out today. It ran pretty well.
We played for awhile before it quit. Just like the second trip, it wouldn't get above 2,300 rpm even with the 17P prop. Timing? Chinese module?
View attachment 20210725_141319.mp4

Tried a couple things to get back underway, but it was too hot to sit out there today, so we got a tow from a kind fellow ski boater. Salute!


The 50A breaker at the engine tripped and we lost gauges and all. It wouldn't reset within a few minutes, so I bypassed it.
The engine cranked and tried, but then just cranked. Getting fuel.
I had tools, a meter, a timing light... but the humans I brought were overheating, so I made that my priority.
I will go through it systematically until I prevail.

I'll keep working the bugs out, because it's starting to get fun.
 

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Reserector_

Chief Petty Officer" & 2021 Splash of the Year Win
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I recently added up my expenditures on this project. I counted materials that could only be used on this project, special tools that I doubt I will ever use on another boat, parts, and consumables.

Consumables are items like brushes, solvents, gloves, tyvek suit, etc.
I did not include parts that I ordered wrong (and plan to resell), excess quantities that can be used on other projects, nor service parts that I bought for stock.

I did include the stereo and the addition of disc trailer brakes. Those two things were not technically necessary to get the boat going. Combined, they are around $500.00

Not counting my time, of course, the "all-in" figure (rounded up slightly) is.... $6,500.
My whole family having fun together.... priceless.

View attachment Snapchat-969294095.mp4
 

GSPLures

Chief Petty Officer
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Messages
564
I recently added up my expenditures on this project. I counted materials that could only be used on this project, special tools that I doubt I will ever use on another boat, parts, and consumables.

Consumables are items like brushes, solvents, gloves, tyvek suit, etc.
I did not include parts that I ordered wrong (and plan to resell), excess quantities that can be used on other projects, nor service parts that I bought for stock.

I did include the stereo and the addition of disc trailer brakes. Those two things were not technically necessary to get the boat going. Combined, they are around $500.00

Not counting my time, of course, the "all-in" figure (rounded up slightly) is.... $6,500.
My whole family having fun together.... priceless.

View attachment 346511
Awesome Job! Also the benefit of knowing that you have a safe boat for your family!!!! For a whole lot cheaper than a new boat, not to mention the satisfaction that you built it
 

chevymaher

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I was in for 5500 I think it was. I am sure I spent more I forgot to count tho. Local lowes expenditures.
 

Reserector_

Chief Petty Officer" & 2021 Splash of the Year Win
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As I worked through the project I kept discovering more things that were missing. This thing was little more than the two outer fiberglass shells, a trailer, and rebuilfable drive components.
All in all, I think I faired pretty well on cost. I think I did well on time as well. I stuck with it, but didn't burn out.

I still don't know what snapped in my brain to make me want to do this. I guess it was the challenge, but to be honest, I just didn't know how to get this derelict off of my property. So...problem solved, eh?
 

kcassells

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As I worked through the project I kept discovering more things that were missing. This thing was little more than the two outer fiberglass shells, a trailer, and rebuilfable drive components.
All in all, I think I faired pretty well on cost. I think I did well on time as well. I stuck with it, but didn't burn out.

I still don't know what snapped in my brain to make me want to do this. I guess it was the challenge, but to be honest, I just didn't know how to get this derelict off of my property. So...problem solved, eh?
Nice job ole man!
 

Reserector_

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I've been having trouble setting the ignition timing on this engine. During the test run in the rain, it would only get to 2,300 rpm even though it should do twice that. I guess you could say it was running half fast.

Last weekend I ran a smaller prop, yet it still topped out at 2,300...until the engine cut off in the middle of the lake. Another boater towed us in.

I dwelled (timing pun intended) on it awhile and deduced that the culprit was most likely the ignition module. All symptoms pointed to that.
History: during the build, I replaced every bit of electronics as a precaution. Most were OEM, but for some reason I went cheap on the module. MISTAKE. Lesson learned.

I just put the original old module in and it cranked right up! Revved agressively!

I'll need to set timing and get it ready for another test run... see if it holds together at speed.20210731_155505.jpg
View attachment 20210731_160837.mp4
 

Reserector_

Chief Petty Officer" & 2021 Splash of the Year Win
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I just set timing with the shunt tool and for the first time ever, it worked as it should. I plugged it in, set "base timing", removed the shunt and it seems right, now.
Can't wait for the next test run!
Stupid Chinese parts caused me allot of grief.
I'll order a spare, but it will be OEM quality.
 
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