Build a gunnel for a roll top boat hull?

[rickryder]

Post some pics of the gutted deck and your stringer layout....would help a lot for us to come up with a solution....

 

[24 Albemarle]

I was looking at the stringers tonight and think I won't really gain much by going through the small stringer at the hull edge but still would like input on reinforcement of the hole in the other stringer between center and outside stringer. It is 8" tall. Here is a pic from earlier today. Thanks

 

[rickryder]

If it's 8" tall I wouldn't worry too much if you're putting a 3" hole in it.... Are you replacing stringers? If you want to beef it up in the area where the hole is going I would scab about a 16" x 8" tall piece where the hole will be.... the thickness will help give it support and structure.

 

[24 Albemarle]

Thanks RR, I finished getting the transom out and have to grind out the remaining stuff. The stringers I'm happy to say looked really good, I think they used treated pine deck boards and they looked great , that was when treated meant treated. I am going to use epoxy on this if I can and will do as you suggest.
On another subject the original mfg.'s seemed to get the tramsom wood off of their center line, I'll try to get a pic but my phone has a focal range that doesn't work with close or wide angle shots, basically there is about 1/8" of glass on the port side and about 3/4" om starboard side, this is on the outboard edges of the plywood, they had sheet of mat between the two pieces of 3/4 and I think they built in one sheet then tabbed it out to the sides and then put the second sheet in and tabbed it out too. With the ply gone now on the port side it literally has a pocket going into the side wall about 5/8" deep, the oter side is proud about the same. So my question is: should I fill the channel in with epoxy and fine chop out to the sidewall and then fit my new wood? Cutting plywood to fit in that channel like slot would be folly, the other side I can grind the sidewall where the original transom tabbing was and then tab over like normal.

 

[24 Albemarle]

Rained today, was warmer though, it's been cold and long. Funny, I worked on an apartment remod job, all warm and nice but all I really wanted to do was work in the cold and damp on my project

all this to try and catch these

 

[Woodonglass]

I see you have a wood working dust collector. That works Great when grinding inside your boat. Too bad EVERYONE can't have access to one of those when they have to do all that nasty grinding on their boats!!!!

 

[sphelps]

They let ya keep 5 red drum ! Our limit is 2 18"-27" .. Or did ya have a couple buds with ya ... :eyebrows:

 

[24 Albemarle]

Hey WOG, yes I got the dust collector going and it's working pretty well, I don't want all the dust all over my crap (hoarded goodies) in the old bldg. The arm works pretty well as I can kinda pull it over as I move along. I really want to get the original motor working as I think she'll really pull then. Do you have any advice on my post 42 question?
sphelps,Yeah I had some help, the speckled trout is about 4 1/2 lbs.It was the best of the bunch that day... seems a long time ago. Sunny day's...
these were yummy too.

 

[Woodonglass]

I'd clean the transoms outer skin totally clean, make a template to fit within 1/4" of all edges, Use Titebond III to glue and screw the two sheets of plywood together and then PB and clamp the new transom in place. If you haven't looked at this, you might wanna...Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms

 

[24 Albemarle]

Thanks WOG I have looked at that and as usual, lot's of great info , I guess I didn't really make my question clear, The original plywood actually is recessed so far on the prt side it makes a slot . The glass on the edge of the old transom (to outside of sidewall of hull) isn't an eighth of an inch,while on the starboard side the old transom wood was in from the edge a good 5/8" (proud).... should I just fill the pocket to the interior hull edge and make my template from this? I'll try and take a picture as it really is sort of odd. But that's my usual, I get the weird one... Talk later, back to making some materials money.the old fashioned way, working for it.

 

[Woodonglass]

I see the "Pockets" on both sides. I'd recommend using your grinder to Grind those down to a taper as best you can, tapering towards the stern, and Template the new transom to fit up as tight as possible to the tapered edge and sides of the hull. When you clamp the transom in the PB squeeze out will help fill the taper and then additional PB should be used to form a fillet to make the transition between the transom and the sides and bottom of the hull. Hope this makes sense. If not I can try to make a drawing to assist you.

 

[24 Albemarle]

I got pics tonight, figured out leave the overhead lights off and just use a single halogen and my pics were sharper and more color correct, just for general output, here's what I got and I realize I have lot's of grinding to clean out the tabbing taper, I just want to fill this slot in with ??? Here are the pics, it's the port side,thanks Two Four


here is another of the slot in question

 

[24 Albemarle]

By the way, can you please tell me how does one go about a pm, I can't seem to find instructions? I don't have any need, but would like to know how anyway. Everyone will have to forgive me, I can build an outdrive but I can't seem to compute well. Dinosaur dna ? go figger

 

[24 Albemarle]

By the way, can you please tell me how does one go about a pm, I can't seem to find instructions? I don't have any need, but would like to know how anyway. Everyone will have to forgive me, I can build an outdrive but I can't seem to compute well. Dinosaur dna ? go figger

"Respect... nobody has to have it, everybody wants it, it's free, why not give some?" Respectfully yours two-four standin by

 

[Woodonglass]

Pics look good. Just as I suspected. What I said before still applies!!!

To send a PM just click on the persons iBoats Name and the PM screen will open. Click on the Private Message button and you're good to go.

 

[24 Albemarle]

Otay! Thanks for the help, I hope to get some quality time with my 36 grit friend this weekend.
Dust collector works ok, but I need a better air feed system for my full face positive air flow mask. It works great, I wish I had done it years ago. I'm using an oiless air compressor to feed it but it takes a lot more air than you would think, a pair of lungs sucks an amazing amount of air in and you have to have enough air available or your lungs have to suck and that's no good. I wear glasses and have a beard so respirators are good but I always felt this would be better, and it is. I'm not sure what the official name of the type of air delivery system is, but it is low pressure with a high volume, in my Mcgyver mentality I know there is a pump for do the job without spending 2 grand. I'm filtering the air and the only real drawbacks are the air comp runs hard and the air is dry .But I never smelled anything and was never winded, in fact it was easy to breathe. I know there is someone out there going OMG! but I have years of experience with respirators of all types and this is gonna be better, just need a pump system that supplies enough air at low pressure. Anyone know what type of pump I should be looking for? I remember Surplus Center had a regenerative blower, I'll have to search more. Anyway forced air is the way, no possible way to get in with constant positive pressure forcing it out and no negative pressure to pull it in. I only talk about this as we all need to keep the bad stuff on the outside and maybe someone has some experience with this. Standing by, 24

 

[rickryder]

Follow what Wood said....grind it out and fill it with PB to fillet.