No special tools needed, just align marks per manualI realized I need a new washer (and nut, maybe) before preloading.
Question - When I align the clutch gear timing marks, do I need any special tools? Like the "Shift handle tool"?
Video I saw must have been an Alpha. It doesn't look like the Bravo has a concave washer.B1, 2 and 3 all the same in the upper section
I tried my 3/8 6-sided socket on the rear drive shaft housing cover so I could align the shift but it doesn't fit. Are the bolt heads a different size?B1, 2 and 3 all the same in the upper section
Success! It's a 12pt socketI tried my 3/8 6-sided socket on the rear drive shaft housing cover so I could align the shift but it doesn't fit. Are the bolt heads a different size?
Dubs touched on this in post number 36,Can I align the + and - without removing the fork that sits astern of them in the housing? And then insert my drive shaft assembly?
Also, going back together it'll be easier to verify the +/- offset alignment of the fwd/rev gears.
Service Manual #28. I believe the drive unit is 2005 (S/N OW260110)Dubs touched on this in post number 36,
Bravo 3 loss of lube oil - slowly then rapidly x2
Is drive shaft removal, survey, and reinstall a DIY operation? It would be my first but I do have some general experience with mechanical repairs.forums.iboats.com
4. Align clutch gear timing marks with index marks on drive shaft housing as close as possible.
IMPORTANT: Ensure that the retainer nut is not cross-threaded by turning the retainer nut counterclockwise until thread engagement is felt; then turn retainer nut clockwise.
5. Install U-joint assembly into drive shaft housing. Apply Special Lubricant 101 to threads of retainer nut and install. Torque retainer nut to 200 lb-ft (271 Nm)... < Remember to measure Torque Wrench Length in Inches to achieve 200 lb-ft using the chart in the manual.
6. Check that timing marks are still properly aligned (by turning U-joint, if necessary). If marks have moved; remove U-joint assembly and start over beginning with step (3). • Refer to "Special Information" on page 23 if shift cam assembly is being replaced.
Sometimes it takes a few stab's to get the timing marks to align while getting the feel for how they turn when installing the assembly...It can be hard to see in there and depending on how new the stern drive is year/serial number wise?, Some of the newer models 'the lines are even smaller / challenging to see vs the older units. So I'd guess that depends on what you can see with leaving it in there on yours but easier with it out.
Mercury BRAVO Service Manual (Page 160 of 598) | ManualsLib
www.manualslib.com
What manual number are you using? What year is your drive unit?
Seems you may be good if you're able to align with the marks on the housing... I believe it was 2006 is when they went with smaller, hard to see lines.I've got good visibility to timing marks from both the drive shaft side and the stern end. I think it will work without removing fork. Does 2-4-C replace special lubricant 101?
Yes. Set rolling torque with dial meter to appropriate range for reusing bearings.Did you get correct rolling torque?
Check the threads, might have been some galling
Did you grease the oring ? Or is it rolled. I forgot to grease the prongs on my driveshaft and had a hell of aYes. Set rolling torque with dial meter to appropriate range for reusing bearings.
Can't get it inserted as far as the threads on the retaining ring. Can only get to o-ring. Then it seems to stick. I've got pretty good visibility from behind. I don't have tool for removing fork.
Check for burrs and the use some grease like 2-4-CYes. Set rolling torque with dial meter to appropriate range for reusing bearings.
Can't get it inserted as far as the threads on the retaining ring. Can only get to o-ring. Then it seems to stick. I've got pretty good visibility from behind. I don't have tool for removing fork.
Ok. I'll check again. ThxCheck for burrs and the use some grease like 2-4-C
Easy to remove the shaft without special tools