Best hitch protector?

[Expidia]

I’m looking to thwart off the thieves a little.
My rig is small 15 ft aluminum on a trailer that they would love to steal for jets skis, dirt bikes etc.
I have to leave my car and trailer in sometimes desolate launch sites.
I already use a tire lock. But I’d like something to protect the ball from being uncoupled while it’s hitched to the car in the parking area.
I’d like this same system to protect anyone from hooking up to the coupler while the trailer is parked alone at say a hotel parking lot when we go to dinner etc.

I see some on Amazon, but I’d like some opinions on which one you use. I know the scum with harbor freight the portable angle grinders can saw through most anything in a heart beat.
And I do have insurance but I’m trying to avoid returning at dusk and finding my car with no trailer. Hopefully, some type of decent hitch coupler system will have them move onto the next car.

This Rhino system is very scary that anyone with a Rhino key can unlock your protector! As example see pic below of an Amazon review!

 

[briangcc]

Buy a quality brass padlock. Won't stop a grinder but will make it more difficult than no lock at all.

Boils down to...if someone wants it bad enough, they'll take it. Because lets face it...4 bolts and your coupler is off anyways. Slap a new one on and drive away. With battery powered impact wrenches, probably be done in under a minute by anyone with half decent skills.

 

[Scott06]

Would agree with the above most of what I've seen in terms of hitch locks or the coupler locks used to keep a stored trailer from getting stolen are only good to keep the honest criminals at bay... very easy to break. Wouldn't over think it too much

 

[Expidia]

I’ve used a brass padlock for years. But bolt cutters or a twist with a screwdriver or a steel rod and the lock is gone. As to all of the above comments I’ve mentioned it in my original post. My trailer wheel locks came today. Just put two new tires on the trailer and 4 new tires on the SUV and have locks on the way for thoise too.

It would be bad enough getting back to the ramp and find stuff gone, but worse is my insurance is probably a $1,000 deductible so if anything is swiped I have to replace it myself.

Ever think what you would do if you came back to the ramp and your trailer is gone? What do you do you do now with that boat in the water

“Regis, I’d like to phone a friend” to come pick up my boat . . . Trouble is his boat is already on his trailer. Even if he has an empty trailer or a tow truck comes out and picks it up. What do you do with the boat when you get it home with no trailer to put it on?

Even with these trailer wheel locks all it would take is a smack with a hammer!

But anything you do security wise is better than doing nothing IMO.

 

[Black58]

I'll agree with a good padlock. You can weld the coupler or tack weld the bolts and nuts. Don't over think it. They can bust the truck window and take the whole thing

 

[Expidia]

I actully do use tack welds. I went to my welder and had him tack weld my pricey trailer crank onto the trailer right after I mounted it a few years ago.
I avoided buying an electric model as I know how long that would last.

This is New Yawk and if it ain't somewhat secure, it's history.

Those hidden GPS tracking devices some boaters hide in the frame of their trailers are also a great idea.

 

[Expidia]

I'll agree with a good padlock. You can weld the coupler or tack weld the bolts and nuts. Don't over think it. They can bust the truck window and take the whole thing

Ya, does anyone really think this is security. It's what I've always used and a twist with a screwdriver and pop!
I just tried to use a decent lock and the hole in the latch is too small. Sure I could drill it out bigger, but it would probably weaken the coupler.

 

[Scott Danforth]

a lock keeps honest men honest.

it will not stop a thief.

you could do a boot as well as a lockable pintle draw bar.

for my RV and the Rogue, I have a lock that goes in the hitch, as well as I cable lock the wheels to the axle. it wont stop them, hopefully it slows them down enough they move to the next trailer. for my small fishing barge, just a small lock like you show in post #7. however its a stainless lock that I have cut off twice for loosing the keys (really only takes 10 seconds to cut).

the link you posted above in post #1 is for a 2-5/16" lock. as in what you would find on 10,000# trailers. not the 1-7/8" or 2" that you have.

 

[briangcc]

A locksmith carries different shank keyed brass locks. I went that route when I secured my spare tire on my '95 Pathfinder to the swing out wheel rack.

All it takes for those wheel locks is a good quality impact socket. Hammer it on and the wheel lock is coming off. I had a set that a wheel joint air ratcheted on without torque sticks. Next shop had to do this to get them off after breaking (2) new keys I had made..and paid for.

You're overthinking this. If a thief wants it, its theirs. Whether they cut the lock or bring a rollback (short of chaining your rig to a tree - which can be cut btw) you're not stopping that either.

Go with a padlock and hope for the best. Or sit there in a chair ready to intercept. You won't be on the boat but your rig will be safe...ish.

Best defense...find a better launch.

 

[Expidia]

a lock keeps honest men honest.

it will not stop a thief.

you could do a boot as well as a lockable pintle draw bar.

for my RV and the Rogue, I have a lock that goes in the hitch, as well as I cable lock the wheels to the axle. it wont stop them, hopefully it slows them down enough they move to the next trailer. for my small fishing barge, just a small lock like you show in post #7. however its a stainless lock that I have cut off twice for loosing the keys (really only takes 10 seconds to cut).

the link you posted above in post #1 is for a 2-5/16" lock. as in what you would find on 10,000# trailers. not the 1-7/8" or 2" that you have.

Ya I just posted that pic from Amazon reviews as an example of how bad the Rhino brand locks are in that any Rhino key will work in another Rhino lock. I almost went for a Rhino until I read that!

I have a swappable stainless ball (uses a cool sliding pin inside the ball) 1-7/8 or a 2 inch ball when I use my son's SUV or our utility trailer.

 

[dingbat]

A locksmith freind recommended one of these years ago. Still in use today

 

[Expidia]

A locksmith carries different shank keyed brass locks. I went that route when I secured my spare tire on my '95 Pathfinder to the swing out wheel rack.

All it takes for those wheel locks is a good quality impact socket. Hammer it on and the wheel lock is coming off. I had a set that a wheel joint air ratcheted on without torque sticks. Next shop had to do this to get them off after breaking (2) new keys I had made..and paid for.

You're overthinking this. If a thief wants it, its theirs. Whether they cut the lock or bring a rollback (short of chaining your rig to a tree - which can be cut btw) you're not stopping that either.

Go with a padlock and hope for the best. Or sit there in a chair ready to intercept. You won't be on the boat but your rig will be safe...ish.

Best defense...find a better launch.

Haha, we trailer all over. It's not which launch, it's the druggies the happen to view a launch as a "mid-night" auto store. That reminds me now I need a lock for my SS prop too

Something like this for an unhooked trailer "has to be" stronger than just my cheapo brass padlock. But this one does not work for when the trailer is hitched to the car. I asked the question as some members will have better all in one solution to what I'm looking for.

 

[Expidia]

A locksmith freind recommended one of these years ago. Still in use today

looks good, but won't fit in the coupler hitch hole on my smaller 16 foot trailer.

 

[airshot]

Do the best you can with locks, you might add a stranded cable around the axle and thru the wheels, cables can be harder to cut thru and not noticeable but the wheel only goes around a time or two then breaks the wheel so they won't get to far. Then add some tags, one in the boat, one in the motor and one in the trailer, this way you can track your items if stolen. If it were me, I would love to catch the thief red handed with my stuff.....happened before but they will never bother me again. Only so much you can do, but if you make it difficult, they will move onto an easier steal. As mentioned find a safer ramp. I go out of my way to use a smaller out of the mainstream launch ramp but it is well watched by a campground next door with security cameras !!

 

[dingbat]

looks good, but won't fit in the coupler hitch hole on my smaller 16 foot trailer.

Have fun run into a trailer yet that it didn’t fit.

Comes with adaptor to adjust from 9/32” to 1/2” hole
What size is the hole?

 

[Expidia]

Have fun run into a trailer yet that it didn’t fit.

Comes with adaptor to adjust from 9/32” to 1/2” hole
What size is the hole?

I'll have to measure it. Boat is in a garage across the street from my house. I'm pulling it out today to work on it though.

I know this discus style Master Lock won't fit as I tried it yesterday. Hole too small.

 

[briangcc]

Haha, we trailer all over. It's not which launch, it's the druggies the happen to view a launch as a "mid-night" auto store. That reminds me now I need a lock for my SS prop too

So do I...WNY here. I launch at state parks which are DEC patrolled. I venture up into 1000 Islands and do the same there. Have yet to hear of anyone losing a trailer to theft.

BTW: You sure you want to put a lock on that prop? Cause replacing a lower unit due to a thief hammering off that lock doesn't sound like fun. Actually sounds a lot more expensive proposition.

 

[mike_i]

Those wheel locks are junk. I lost the key socket and was able to get them off with very little effort.

I’ve used a brass padlock for years. But bolt cutters or a twist with a screwdriver or a steel rod and the lock is gone. As to all of the above comments I’ve mentioned it in my original post. My trailer wheel locks came today. Just put two new tires on the trailer and 4 new tires on the SUV and have locks on the way for thoise too.

It would be bad enough getting back to the ramp and find stuff gone, but worse is my insurance is probably a $1,000 deductible so if anything is swiped I have to replace it myself.

Ever think what you would do if you came back to the ramp and your trailer is gone? What do you do you do now with that boat in the water

“Regis, I’d like to phone a friend” to come pick up my boat . . . Trouble is his boat is already on his trailer. Even if he has an empty trailer or a tow truck comes out and picks it up. What do you do with the boat when you get it home with no trailer to put it on?

Even with these trailer wheel locks all it would take is a smack with a hammer!

But anything you do security wise is better than doing nothing IMO.

 

[airshot]

Make sure you have decent insurance with a low deductable. Unless you have a really high dollar boat, insurance is cheap. My boat is valued at 6K total then broken down by hull, motor, trailer values. Total coverage is less than a hundred bucks a year with a 250 deductable.

 

[mike_i]

Try a tire boot.