Bennett Trim Repair And Auto Pro Install

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,084
The part number is A1103, just search for it.

I cleaned the hole out with a 1/2 drill bit (hole is a bit larger) then used my pocket knife. Using some acetone to finish the outside clean up. Want to get it all off the gel, but leaving a tad in the hole should not be an issue. I'll squeeze some in the hole once its close and fill it in
 

redneck joe

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 18, 2009
Messages
10,931
Just tried bend mine by hand and its pretty stiff, but pics tell the story. Mine being 22 years old may have had something to do with it. Might also have been the boat lift smacked the tab from me forgetting to retract the tab before loading, right now I don't know. In any case I'll need to pay more attention before lifting the boat. Thanks for the help

BTW, there is a guy on the Formula forum with an issue but have not seen you there
http://formulaboatsforum.com/VBFORUM/showthread.php?8508-Trim-Tab-Head-Scratcher&p=70672#post70672
Get the auto up accessory
 

redneck joe

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 18, 2009
Messages
10,931
It is in addition to. I have mine behind the dash. Anytime the power is killed they go up, no buttons needed.

I don't need to worry about hitting from trailer (and don't use fork storage) as they are behind the bunk but this way they are always in the up, and level, position when i am starting out - consistently always in the same position which for a child of the late 70's and early 80's helps a bunch if ya know what I mean. The Carver doesn't need them for planing purposes - unless i want to be on plane in 4 feet or less - just level and rough water usage. If you use yours for assistance to get on plane you just need to remember to put down as you are in the no wake zone or heading out from the hook. When they are always down, one tends to remember that and make it a part of the routine.
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,084
This is getting more involved but could do it now while I have the one trim ram off. To change appears to need the trim sensor kit and the Auto Trim Pro.

ATPSENSTD@025x.jpg

Auto trim

BENAP000A1BC-2.jpg

To do this its about $400 add on
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,084
Mine are not needed for getting on plane, will look into a bit more to see if I'm have the right components needed.
 

redneck joe

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 18, 2009
Messages
10,931
I looked at auto trim and decided not to spend the money but almost did. And like you said, you are into it now, it is winter what else ya gonna spend yer time and blow money on.


as you know, tabman willl get you the info you need
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,084
I looked at auto trim and decided not to spend the money but almost did. And like you said, you are into it now, it is winter what else ya gonna spend yer time and blow money on.


as you know, tabman willl get you the info you need

Oh, this winter might hurt more then I want it to but do agree with you. Just picked up a FAST dual sensor AFR meter. Want to redo all may gauges and helm station, having some upholstery work being done an probably Bimini work also.

Hey Tabman can you advise on the correct parts to change over to full auto? I have the two large rocker switches above the throttle but still plenty of room to install around it, maybe make a cover plate like a light switch
 

redneck joe

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 18, 2009
Messages
10,931
Hey Tabman I have the two large rocker switches above the throttle but still plenty of room to install around it, maybe make a cover plate like a light switch

my $1 wally world plastic cutting board cover up is working just fine after several years. Cut to size then used palm sander and probably 150 grit to seam up the edges smooth. 4 stainless screws with beauty rings no one notices. Cut to same shape as new switch will look even more custom.
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,084
Never heard back from Tabman so I called Bennett (think I talked to Tom) and if I want just auto retract all I need is part number AR512. Says its a 30 minute job (providing you gain access to the rocker switches)

To install full automatic with gauges, I need trim cylinder kit ATPSENSTD and Auto Pro AP000A1HA

Talked to the Admiral and she likes the auto feature, and also knows I like the pretty lights :D , so think I'm going with the Auto Pro
 

Tabman

iboats.com Partner
Joined
Feb 21, 2002
Messages
566
Never heard back from Tabman so I called Bennett (think I talked to Tom) and if I want just auto retract all I need is part number AR512. Says its a 30 minute job (providing you gain access to the rocker switches)

To install full automatic with gauges, I need trim cylinder kit ATPSENSTD and Auto Pro AP000A1HA

Talked to the Admiral and she likes the auto feature, and also knows I like the pretty lights :D , so think I'm going with the Auto Pro

Sorry,

Got under my radar somehow. Yes that's exactly what you need. Let me know if you have any questions. My direct email is Tabmanhelp@gmail.com if you want to get in touch with me right away about anything.

Tom
Bennett Marine
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,084
Thanks Tom

Disconnected the starboard side line and fitting, good think my arms are that long. Think I'm going to have to remove the exhaust again to get to the trim tab pump, either that of figure out a way to make my arms 2 foot longer. :(

Removed the screws and just twisted the cylinder two revolutions and it pulled right out with some good pulling. Will clean this one up also and have ready when the parts come in.

The trim pro cover is 2 13/16 square so it should cover up my switches which are 2 1/4 wide, and the height with screws is about the same. Pic not to clear
Photo1327.jpg
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,084
Probably could, but that would take more doing. I have never had to add fluid to it and its 23 years old now. So once I get it all back together hopefully it will be okey dokey for a long time
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,084
Just need to get some things out of the way and I can squeeze in, mainly exhaust riser and lube bottle/bracket. Doing that will allow me to finish to secure the two wires hanging from the oil temp install this summer
Photo1328.jpg
Photo1329.jpg
 

Tabman

iboats.com Partner
Joined
Feb 21, 2002
Messages
566
Thanks Tom

Disconnected the starboard side line and fitting, good think my arms are that long. Think I'm going to have to remove the exhaust again to get to the trim tab pump, either that of figure out a way to make my arms 2 foot longer. :(

Removed the screws and just twisted the cylinder two revolutions and it pulled right out with some good pulling. Will clean this one up also and have ready when the parts come in.

The trim pro cover is 2 13/16 square so it should cover up my switches which are 2 1/4 wide, and the height with screws is about the same. Pic not to clear

I think it will too.
atp kp by Tom McGow, on Flickr
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,084
Looks like my hearing is getting worst, 2.13 which may have to make another plate to go over the top of old switches, but will see how it does once the parts come in

Thanks
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,084
Tracking says the trim items are coming in today. Removed the panel and switches today to get ready for it. Since my drive trim gauges doesn't work (digital trim) I either need to replace with something else, or maybe install a different gauge

Photo1330.jpg

Photo1331.jpg

Photo1332.jpg
 

redneck joe

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 18, 2009
Messages
10,931
Probably could, but that would take more doing. I have never had to add fluid to it and its 23 years old now. So once I get it all back together hopefully it will be okey dokey for a long time
24 years is when everything really stops working...
 
Top