Bayliner 2252 cruiser restoration

[DeepBlue2010]

I am not sure where to start guys. I saw the ad for this boat on CL last year around August. The boat was out of the water, exposed to the elements with no cover for - at least - two years . She looked extreamly abused and begging for mercy so I brought her home. Being new to boats and not knowing what the heck I am doing, I spent the rest of Aug, September and a week or so in October in between denial, working with kids toys (Dremel, etc) and of course, reading threads on iBoats and ordering supplies . Then I had to cover her for the winter. I did all engine maintenance before the winter, Engine/Out Drive oil change (there was no traces of water or milky white in any of these but the engine was fully inspected before I purchased her), spark plugs, fliters (oil/gas). this month, I started working again. I knew there were some softwood around the ski locker (I know that from last year) hat needs to be taken care of. I kept digging and digging. These pictures will tell the story much better than I can

Here she is from the outside


Cabin (You did not want to be in this cabin without respirator, the mold was every where)



Abuse, abuse and more abuse

 

[DeepBlue2010]

Re: Bayliner 2252 cruiser restoration



The aluminum gas tank had about 30% pitting. Coast Line Eq is building new one for me.

 

[DeepBlue2010]

Re: Bayliner 2252 cruiser restoration



This post was suppose to come before the above one. This was the reason I got out of the denail phase and realized I have a decent size project on my hand.

I am too tired to ask any questions now. Tomorrow I will post pics of my stringers and consult you guys on my next steps.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Bayliner 2252 cruiser restoration

That's a real nice boat you've got there, well worth fixing up. Heck of a project though! Good luck with it. (I'm not a glass guy so I'll just be watching from the bleachers )

 

[DeepBlue2010]

Re: Bayliner 2252 cruiser restoration

Thanks EZ. It is a heck of a project indeed. Much more than I thought. I ordered my material from USComposites.com, they will be here by 06/21. Hopefully by this time most of the prep work will be done and ready for the rebuild. My new gas tank is also ready for pickup. Coast Line is recommending coating the tank with Rhino liner or epoxy paint with appropriate primer. Which one of these two options would provide better level of protection against corrosion?

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Bayliner 2252 cruiser restoration

I'd look into some POR15 for that.

 

[stackz]

Re: Bayliner 2252 cruiser restoration

yeah, second the POR15, its expensive but is one of THE best products out there for metal corrosion inhibition/prevention.

looking at the underside of the floor it looks like the strings and such are pretty solid. first time I've ever really seen that on a boat with a rotten floor actually. makes me wonder how it managed like that? just moisture eating at the underside of the floor and then evaporating before it attacked the structure?

 

[DanielR]

Re: Bayliner 2252 cruiser restoration

Remember that you will be applying por15 on aluminum, which is not your usual metal that accepts the paint easily.
Aluminum is self protecting and it corrodes only if exposed to water for long periods of time (ex rotted deck).
Anything that has contact with water will result in failure, even if you apply paint of top.

Please read two of the articles below before you decide whether to paint or not:
http://marinesurvey.com/yacht/fueltank.htm
http://www.craigmarine.com/accessories/fuel_tanks/aluminum_boat_tanks.htm

I personally stick with bare aluminum.

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: Bayliner 2252 cruiser restoration

Id try http://www.ospho.com/ myself.. for the tank that is ..

You have a Bigtime work in your future ... get a full face respirator .. and a place to Grind..grind..grind some more..fume and more fumes..

YD.

 

[Friscoboater]

Re: Bayliner 2252 cruiser restoration

My gosh, that is bigger than my project. We are here for you bro! Take it one step at a time.

 

[DeepBlue2010]

Re: Bayliner 2252 cruiser restoration

I'd look into some POR15 for that.

EZ, thanks for the tip, I didn't hear of this product before. I need to do some reading. Do you happen to know if it is epoxy based (two parts)? Did you try it before?

yeah, second the POR15, its expensive but is one of THE best products out there for metal corrosion inhibition/prevention.
looking at the underside of the floor it looks like the strings and such are pretty solid. first time I've ever really seen that on a boat with a rotten floor actually. makes me wonder how it managed like that? just moisture eating at the underside of the floor and then evaporating before it attacked the structure?

I think the fact that my floor is 7 or 8 inches higher than the stringers had something to do with this. The rips (bulk head) are higher than the stringers and these are the ones who carried the deck. Look at the 3rd pic in post #3. Carpet is the source of all problems for us (boaters) and a good sourse of cash flow for boat makers. Everywhere I removed this carpet from was rotted, it is a moisture trap.

Remember that you will be applying por15 on aluminum, which is not your usual metal that accepts the paint easily.
Aluminum is self protecting and it corrodes only if exposed to water for long periods of time (ex rotted deck).
Anything that has contact with water will result in failure, even if you apply paint of top.

Please read two of the articles below before you decide whether to paint or not:
http://marinesurvey.com/yacht/fueltank.htm
http://www.craigmarine.com/accessories/fuel_tanks/aluminum_boat_tanks.htm

I personally stick with bare aluminum.

DanielR, Thanks for the links, I will read carefully, honestly, I am not sure how can bare metal be a better than protected metal. POR15 specifically says that the product sticks to aluminum with no problem. In any rate, thanks for the advice and I will read the articles.

Id try http://www.ospho.com/ myself.. for the tank that is ..

You have a Bigtime work in your future ... get a full face respirator .. and a place to Grind..grind..grind some more..fume and more fumes..

YD.

YD, based on a tank replacement thread I read in Bayliner Owner Club, this is the product he used before the epoxy paint. Did you mean to use it as first step or as the only protection I need?

My gosh, that is bigger than my project. We are here for you bro! Take it one step at a time.

Jay, I will need all the support I can get from you guys to get me through this project. Thanks to all of you for being always here to help.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Bayliner 2252 cruiser restoration

EZ, thanks for the tip, I didn't hear of this product before. I need to do some reading. Do you happen to know if it is epoxy based (two parts)? Did you try it before?

I have not personally used it but have seen it used on an aluminum transom and a lawnmower deck. The stuff is tough as nails (pricey though).

 

[emoney]

Re: Bayliner 2252 cruiser restoration

Once you get the inside looking as good as the outside, she's gonna be a nice rig.

You could always eliminate the carpet during the restore and avoid that mess later on down the road.

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: Bayliner 2252 cruiser restoration

"YD, based on a tank replacement thread I read in Bayliner Owner Club, this is the product he used before the epoxy paint. Did you mean to use it as first step or as the only protection I need?"

Sorry .. my bad. I didnt catch the part where you were replacing the tank ( facepalm thingy here ).

Your tank isnt being shipped to you treated already ?

YD.

 

[DeepBlue2010]

Re: Bayliner 2252 cruiser restoration

Once you get the inside looking as good as the outside, she's gonna be a nice ri

You could always eliminate the carpet during the restore and avoid that mess later on down the road.

For sure the carpet will be gone in the rebuild. The outside gelcoat is not in great shap by the way. I will post some closeup pics when I get to this stage.

Sorry .. my bad. I didnt catch the part where you were replacing the tank ( facepalm thingy here ).

Your tank isnt being shipped to you treated already ?

YD.

No, just bare aluminum. I am trying to chose between Rhino liner, Epoxy paint and now POR15. I read good info about POR15 but the liner is also extreamly tough. I just need to decide on this one if I want to take the time do it myself or have it sprayed with liner for me.

 

[DeepBlue2010]

Re: Bayliner 2252 cruiser restoration

These are some pictures of core samples of my transom and stringers. The surveyor who done it for me told me that it will be waste of my time and efforts to redo them. He thinks that they are in a very good shape. What you guys think?


There is some moisture in the transome but it is not rotted. His advice is to let these core sample holes open for a while to allow the moisture to scape. Realistic?

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: Bayliner 2252 cruiser restoration

I think they are in good shape personally.

As far as leaving the samples open to dry out ... um..probably not going to give you the results over all that you might be expecting. Localized moisture will eventually evaporate but not much more then that.

Id glass them up and be done with it .

YD.

 

[DeepBlue2010]

Re: Bayliner 2252 cruiser restoration

Thanks YD. Would you please take a look at pic # 2 & 5 above. These are the stringers at both sides of the boat. The un-glassed area is where the gas tank bulkhead meets the stringer. There was a block of wood cut at 45 connecting the two - stringer and bulkhead - together and provides a smooth transition for the glass. The wood joint was nailed together ? the black shade on the wood is rust from the non stainless steel screws they used ? and then glassed over. I am thinking of doing it differently. I want to glass the stringers and completely seal them first and then glass the bulkhead into it to make sure that there is less chance for water to find its way into the joint. Will this method be an equivalent to the factory's and will provide the same strength for the joint? The other question is, the glass on the stringers has no adhesion to the wood. Is this OK?

 

[DeepBlue2010]

Re: Bayliner 2252 cruiser restoration

Got couple of hours on the boat today. The last two bulkheads are out. One of them was the bulkhead between the engine and the gas tank







This bulkhead is attached to a smaller one that sets between the two engine mounts - shown in the picture - they were not glued or glassed together; just some staple gun screws. They were soaked guys. I have no idea where the water came from?! The glass from the outside looked pretty tight to me. The engine mounts are wet but not rotted. Anyway, the demo is almost over. Still have couple of sessions then the grinding starts. This is going to be fun

UPS delivered my material today. Tomorrow I will stop by HD and get me few grit 40 flap disks. I decided to redesign the floor plan. No sleeper seats. Captin seat and maybe a place for a cooler or BBQ on the starboard and a lounge on the port side. The gas tank is ready and I still didn't decide what to go for regarding protecting it. We will see.

 

[DeepBlue2010]

Re: Bayliner 2252 cruiser restoration

Guys, I know my project doesn't measure up to some of the fantastic work some of you did here but it is work in progress and I really need your support. This question is important to me and I appreciate if you take the time to tell me what you think. A quick update, the grinding has started yesterday. No new pictures to post. The boat looks the same only covered with white powder

please take a look at pic # 2 & 5 in post 16. These are the stringers at both sides of the boat. The un-glassed area is where the gas tank bulkhead meets the stringer. There was a block of wood cut at 45 connecting the two - stringer and bulkhead - together and provides a smooth transition for the glass. The wood joint was nailed together ? the black shade on the wood is rust from the non stainless steel screws they used ? and then glassed over. I am thinking of doing it differently. I want to glass the stringers and completely seal them first and then glass the bulkhead into it to make sure that there is less chance for water to find its way into the joint. Will this method be an equivalent to the factory's and will provide the same strength for the joint? The other question is, the glass on the stringers has no adhesion to the wood. Is this OK?

Also, Woodonglass wrote this yesterday in the Checking th Transom thread
"If you have access to the INSIDE of the transom, you should get down as LOW and as close to the Drain tube as possible. Using a 3/8 drill with a 1/4" drill bit drill into the transom no more than .3/4 to 1 inch deep. DO NOT drill all the way thru. Drill several holes spaced 6" apart and at various Heights on the transom. Check the drill shavings. If they are Light tan and dry. GOOD. If Dark Brown and WET or Powdery BAD. If all is well fill the holes with 3M 5200 Sealant. If BAD Replace the transom."
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If you take a look at my transome core in the picture above you will find it brown and it is a little moist. Should I start worrying about my transom now?

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