Arkansas traveler

[j23mau]

I have a 59 Arkansas traveler. Just curious what everyone uses to attach the rails to each other. Just started the project and trying to get some ideas.

 

[pckeen]

Re: Arkansas traveler

Not quite sure what you mean - can you post some pics and let us know what you have tried?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Arkansas traveler

Welcome to iBoats!

Are you referring to joining the top cap to the hull?

 

[j23mau]

Re: Arkansas traveler

Welcome to iBoats!

Are you referring to joining the top cap to the hull?

Yes the 3 pieces of wood that attach to the top of the boat. I have already removed the previous wood and have cut the new wood to go in its place.

I haven't been able to find any rivets to work well enough to my liking. I removed all the corners as well. But u want to do it right so I'm not redoing it in a few years.

 

[GWPSR]

Re: Arkansas traveler

The next sound you hear will be all of us asking for pictures. Seriously though, it's easier if we can see what you're seeing.

 

[kfa4303]

Re: Arkansas traveler

HI J23mau. Welcome to iboats. I have a'59 Arkansas Traveler too. It sounds like you're trying to mount your wooden rubrails to your gunnels. There are several different types of fasteners you can use but aluminum rivets, stainless steel nuts and bolts and/or bronze marine screws will all work. It's mostly just a matter of cost, time and money. I believe they used blind end, aluminum rivets in the original factory set up. Here are some great links to info on your boat and to some fasteners.

Arkansas traveler - Classic Boat Library
Screws

 

[oldboat1]

Re: Arkansas traveler

kind of sounds to me from your first post like you want a way of joining the butt ends of the new wooden rail pieces. (I could use some pics too.) Assuming that's what you might mean, epoxy the end pieces to bond and water seal, and locate rail attaching screws fairly close to the ends, particularly if at a point where there is any flair. Scarf joints would be better for joining, but sounds like you have them cut and ready. For attaching along the length of the hull, if that's the question, I would look for access to drill from inside, and then attach with stainless screws, with 5200 between the wood and hull surfaces.

 

[j23mau]

Re: Arkansas traveler

The rivets that were in the boat before were flush mounted on either side. I don't like the look of the standard pop rivets and would like something different. Its just going to be a fishing boat, so I'm not trying to spend another $300 on Stainless steel hardware for the boat.

I figured I would attach one side, predrill holes then attach the other 2 on the inside and do the same. Then attach them together somehow. I just didn't know if there was a standard aluminum flat faced type rivet.

The wood that was on it was beyond repair.

I'm guessing I should stain or paint the wood before installation. How hard is it to wrap without cracking it?

Here are a few pics.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Arkansas traveler

What are the new rubrails made out of:

It looks to have large, loose grain. Any bends should be done slowly to prevent cracking along the grain.

Stain & seal them well.

Stainless shouldn't run $300, but if you don't like the look of pop rivets, you could use solid rivets & buck them yourself.

 

[oldboat1]

Re: Arkansas traveler

Might consider another material? That hull has quite a flair to it, and will take some doing to fit wood rails -- also some care to keep them looking good after they are used as.....rub rails. Another option might be to salvage some flexible rub rail from an old hull somewhere, and fit that. Just opinions.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Arkansas traveler

If she were mine and I was doing this I'd make these rails by slicing Douglas Fir into 1/4" thick pieces and then laminating them clamping them to the curvature of the hull and gluing the laminations up. Once dry you could remove them and do the final shaping and then you could attach them much easier with no strain from bending them. I'd fasten them on the boat with aluminum carriage bolts.

 

[oldboat1]

Re: Arkansas traveler

Woodonglas's suggestion is a good way to do wood rails. If doing the lamination without steaming, I would opt for plywood strips -- maybe 1/4 or 3/8 ply, laminated as described to get the thickness you want. Oversize the width (i.e., height) of the strips to allow for shaping after the lamination sets. Recommend Epoxy for the process. If doing a varnished finish, can coat the whole finished rail with epoxy to seal against moisture. Good project, whatever you choose.

(suggest waiting for a summer day, if we ever get one, and let both the strips and hull set out in the sun before trying to shape the wood. Makes a difference.)

 

[64osby]

Re: Arkansas traveler

Maybe look at barrel nut / bolt fasteners. Pull it all together with one bolt / nut.

 

[oldboat1]

Re: Arkansas traveler

seen those, 64osby, but don't think I've ever used them. Need a star bit, I guess, which would be a good solid grip in installing. Good tip.
(maybe a hex wrench -- either way, would be good to install.)

 

[64osby]

Re: Arkansas traveler

They work great for the right application. Use a little blue lock tight if you go that way.

 

[pj100h]

Re: Arkansas traveler

I have just finished the gunnel rails on a 55 AT and they turned out great. I used mahogany and put about seven coats of stai on them before using clamps and bolts to make the wood form to the boat. Then i used a two piece flat head aluminium screw to fasten it. I tryed rivets but just couldn't make them work.
when I figure how to post some pics, I will show you.