98 Lund with salt damage

[playinhooky]

Last year I purchased a 1998 16 foot Lund Adventurer. I used the boat last summer and noticed some water seepage into the bilge but not a big deal. I used the boat several times this year and there was a lot more water coming through the hull. Upon further close inspection I found numerous small pin holes under the boat where the boat sat on the trailer bunks. I removed the floor and the partially saturated foam to expose the hull. The hull is pitted badly and you can see a number of small holes. My questions are: what is the best way to clean and prep the hull and will something like Gluvit make a satisfactory repair? I would love to use the boat in salt water again after the repairs, is that foolish? Any information or tips on a game plan will be greatly appreciated.

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: 98 Lund with salt damage

Welcome to iboats.

Clean the aluminum on the inside and plug the pinholes with JB weld then coat with gluvit. Install new flotation, a deck and go boating!!

 

[playinhooky]

Re: 98 Lund with salt damage

Thanks for the reply Bob. I am brand new to forum stuff and it is very interesting and informative. A few more questions on the hull if I can. After cleaning hull with wire brush-drill do I need any further cleaning with Acetone or Vinegar or something along that line? After painting inside and outside of hull with Gluvit, should I also paint over the Gluvit on the outside,and what paint would you recomend? ( I would like to use in salt water again) Last question for now, In replacing the foam betwen the ribs, I've heard from liquid pour in, to pool noodles, to rigid styrofoam. If the rigid blue board is ok, this would be the one I would choose because its readily available and I'm very familiar with working with it. Thanks again for you'r help.

 

[jasoutside]

Re: 98 Lund with salt damage

After cleaning hull with wire brush-drill do I need any further cleaning with Acetone or Vinegar or something along that line?

Anything you can do to get that hull squeaky clean is certainly going to help Gluvit adhesion.

After painting inside and outside of hull with Gluvit, should I also paint over the Gluvit on the outside,and what paint would you recomend?

Most guys just Gluvit on the inside as it's not all that pretty on the outside. But, if you do, Gluvit has no UV protection so ya, you'll need paint or something to cover it. Many guys go with Rustoleum around here for paint though there are certainly fancier, more expensive options.

In replacing the foam betwen the ribs, I've heard from liquid pour in, to pool noodles, to rigid styrofoam. If the rigid blue board is ok, this would be the one I would choose because its readily available and I'm very familiar with working with it.

Pour in foam is great for a properly rebuilt fiberglass boat. In an alum rig it really obstructs water drainage. The blue/pink foam boards and noodles are super alternatives.

Welcome to iboats!

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 98 Lund with salt damage

Upon further close inspection I found numerous small pin holes under the boat where the boat sat on the trailer bunks..

Your problem may not be from the saltwater.

I suspect maybe your bunk boards have been replaced with treated lumber and it is actually the pressure treated wood that is eating your boat. I would replace those bunks ASAP.

 

[playinhooky]

Re: 98 Lund with salt damage

Thanks for the reply guys, I basically have all the wood and everything else out of the boat. It Looks like a large row boat.After I do my hull repairs, I'm thinking of using 10" wide cypress boards for the deck and treating them with a oil base water repellent. I'm thinking I'll let them esposed and use that way if not to slippery. I dont want carpet, the boat had this before and its a real pain to clean fish slop out of carpet.I may consider vinyl but i want the deck to breathe so everything can dry out when I'm not using it. Am I on an OK path? Thanks

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 98 Lund with salt damage

After I do my hull repairs, I'm thinking of using 10" wide cypress boards for the deck and treating them with a oil base water repellent. I'm thinking I'll let them esposed and use that way if not to slippery. I dont want carpet, the boat had this before and its a real pain to clean fish slop out of carpet.I may consider vinyl but i want the deck to breathe so everything can dry out when I'm not using it. Am I on an OK path? Thanks

The joints in between the 10" boards will expand and contract and the opening and closing will allow dirt and junk to enter your bilge. The cypress will also be much weaker than plywood.

If you do plywood right, you don't have to worry about letting it dry out because it'll never get wet. Seal the top and edges of your plywood decking with 4 coats of epoxy resin, this will waterproof you deck and be like a sheet of glass. Apply a water shedding finish like vinyl, water won't absorb into the vinyl like it does carpet and the water will just run off. Vinyl is also very easy to clean and maintain for a nice looking deck all the time.

This is what my deck looked like after 4 coats of epoxy:

This is what my boat looks like with vinyl installed:
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=509163

I used to have bad mildew problems when I had carpet in the boat because of the moisture it absorbed, now my mildew problems are nil.

 

[drew2237]

Re: 98 Lund with salt damage

i HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY ALUMINUM BOAT AND WE WENT TO TRACTOR SUPPLY AND GOT A GALLON OF HERCULINER AND COATED THE WHOLE BOTTOM BECAUSE THERE WAS PIN HOLES AND LEAKY RIVITS AND THIS WAY IT WOULD SEAP INTO THE HOLE AND FILL IT UP. IT SEALED THE BOAT UP AND I HAVENT HAD ANY LEAKS SO FAR