'94 Crownline 182 Restore transom/stringers/deck

[Rickmerrill]

Ok, I'm going to ask a question about waterproofing the cleats (attached to tops of stringers/bulkheads to take the screws that hold down the sole - those cleats). I've seen several restorers that wrapped them in CSM and screwed and PB'd them in. But, being lazy I'm wondering about two other approaches. The mfg just soaked them in resin and stapled them in (Friscopboater said he was going to just soak them in resin but I couldn't tell for sure if that's what he ended up doing). Yeah I know resin by it's self has little strength... As a step down I have a pressure treated 2x4 on top of the fuel tank to hold it down. That board has no signs of any deterioration after 20 years. Sooo, I'm wondering if I could use treated furring strips as cleats. Even if there is some sweating down below I think treated cleats should easily be able to resist that level of moisture for at least 20 years. I'm thinking of using coated decking screws to attach the cleats to the stringers and putting PB in there but if it doesn't stick (these are so thin they seem to be pretty dry) the screws will still hold them in place. So if you think it's a bad idea let me know or if you think that should work let me know that too, and why. Thanks!

 

[nurseman]

Why even mess with the cleats? Why not just PB and screw the deck directly to the stringers?

 

[Rickmerrill]

That's a valid question and one I can only partially answer, maybe. But first this is what jbcurt had to say about this back in May and he basically agrees with you:

The cleats are only really necessary if you think it'll be hard to hit the 3/4" edge of the stringer plywood w/ a deck hold down screw OR you don't want to put ANY screw holes in the stringers at all to hold down the deck.

I'd wrap your stringers 1st completely

Wrap the cleats 2nd, before you install them

Install the cleats using PB & clamps (no screws)

This ^^^ isolates the cleat from the stringer, so IF there's water intrusion because of a deck hold down screw, it's ONLY into the cleat. Then if the cleat fails after becoming water logged, there's a hope that the stringer is unaffected, allowing you to remove the cleat, rough & scuff the stringer and re-install a new cleat.

Ok, first off I'm not too sure how much benefit you'd get if the screw did leak into the cleat or how much fun it would be to fix that and it would probably be leaking into a sealed/foamed compartment so you might have bigger issues. But, say you have two sheets of ply butted up to one another resting on a 3/4' stringer or bulkhead. Now you only have 3/8' of ply to run the screw thru on an edge. Is that even advisable? So I'm loving your answer except where there will be decking butted up on top of a stringer/bulkhead.

Funny but on my boat they had cleats all over the place. You would guess they had a reason, other than Joe can't hit a stringer if his life depended on it, but I honestly don't know why and I'm positive it wasn't because it saved money or meant the boat would last longer. You would think in production they could easily mark the stringer locations on the top of the deck.

 

[nurseman]

Yea, 3/8" is pretty thin. You could double up where the deck seams will be, or perhaps just put cleats in those areas? No harm in putting cleats in, I was just curious.

 

[Rickmerrill]

Tomorrow will be foam pour day! USC recommends 80 degrees for full expansion of their foam and our forecast is for 86 degrees. Getting the deck in felt like progress was being made more than any of the other steps so far. The goal now is to use up the foam and resin before it gets too cold; worried that next spring their shelf life could be a problem. Once the foam is in I'll finish up the deck fillets - there just squared off now to keep the foam in - then tab and cover the deck and the glassing is done except for the seat bases and trim pump base.

Thanks to Nurseman for the idea of putting the deck screws into the stringers. It got me thinking I only needed to put cleats on one side of the two bulkheads and around the fuel and tank. I only had to make up 8 cleats instead of 40 or so.

Here are a few pictures.



The last time I'll see those stringers.





How I kept the ply from warping and sped up the curing process.




Deck is in and fill holes are ready. A board with a couple of screws into the deck will bring the edges level.

 

[JASinIL2006]

Good luck with the foam! Hope it goes smoothly!

 

[Rickmerrill]

Well, it ain't pretty but it's foamed! Wife poured parts a and b on the ground then I mixed both with a paint mixer on a drill in the boat. Even with all the waste still have about 3gal leftover. Temp was about perfect, 86 in the shade. Rolled boat into the sun and pre-warmed the pails in bathtub.

Evidence:

 

[Rickmerrill]

Thanks for the good luck JAS, it seemed to work!

 

[nurseman]

Looks like you had great expansion! That is a big milestone, glad it went well for ya!

 

[Rickmerrill]

Thank you for responding Nurseman

 

[Arawak]

Great stuff... I'm going to be doing the same in a few weeks, I hope. Have to come up with a way to get 80 degrees F in January though....

 

[philbullet]

Hey Rick ive been reading your post and progress.Great job.
IAm I in in the middle of doing a transom replacement only and I know this is a lil late, but on your key hole stearing cut I use a 2" step bit and it did a reel quick job on that with little sanding.
just thought I'd mention it for future reference's.
GOOD LUCK on project keep up good work.

 

[Rickmerrill]

Thanks for the response Arawak. I've been following your work and I'm sure you'll come up with the heat.

 

[Rickmerrill]

Thank you phillbullet. The drum sander on a drill did a good job but now you have me thinking up ways to use a step drill!

 

[tpenfield]

Sounds like you had a good plan for pouring and mixing. Heat is a good thing when it comes to foam. :thumb:

I did my Formula in a bout 65 F degree weather, so I had to heat everything up as best I could. Left the parts A and B in a heated room for about 3 days to bring it up to about 85 F.

 

[jc55]

Hey Rick, first time I checked out your whole thread. Impeccable work on those stringers. I really like all of your contours and rounded edges. I kind of gather that you used US Composites resin by the pail. Your glass work is a little too good around your engine stringers. What kind of resin are you using specifically(model #, etc)?

 

[Rickmerrill]

Tp, my plan was to hope for one last warm spell. About 4-5 days out 3 days of above 80 showed in the forecast but I hadn't even started on the floor! That led to some long days getting ready. Sure glad I didn't have to fight the temperatures like you did but I did when glassing the backs of the decking and will when glassing in the deck. Warming up large areas can sure slow things down.

 

[Rickmerrill]

Hey jc, been watching your resto. You have a good eye, I am using the 435 laminating resin from USC. Like someone mentioned recently you don't see the comedy show that I do when working just the cleaned up, staged publicity pictures I choose to show on iboats and the camera hides a lot luckily!

 

[Rickmerrill]

I hate acetone! Ok, acetone is fine but the cans. Sure they are easy to carry and they make a cool sound when they are empty. But what about the ones with the metal cap inside or the caps that would rather go on crooked than straight or trying to pour a full can without half of it spilling on the floor? Anyone else out there feel the same about them dang cans?

 

[JASinIL2006]

Those square gallon-sized cans? They are a pain. I don't care for them much, either.