89 BL Capri resto help

[dezmond]

Cutting fiberglass.... NOT A DREMEL... That would take forever. You want a sawzall, oscillating tool, something with some power. Just be careful, go slow until you get the hang of it. Grrrrrrinding you want to use 35, 40, 60 grit discs on a angle grinder. Not the flapper wheels, they don't go quick enough through the material. For the foam? A saw, pry bar, wire wheel, your choice. don't use chemicals, could have a nasty mess and prolly not too good to breath. Make sure you wear good gear. Gloves, good respirator, safety glasses and a suit. You WILL get itchy.

As for resin? Your choice.... I went with eeeeepoxy because I know I want to paint the boat and not use gelcoat anywhere. It doesn't smell, is strong, i don't have to use CSM, etc. Is it more expensive? There are a ton of debates on if it is or not.. I tend to say no it's not.

If you are gonna use Gelcoat, then you should stay with poly.

Ta Ta

 

[Scherfz1]

dezmond surprisingly the dremel has been going well, once over 1/8 it slows WAAAAYYY down, and thats whats left lol rotted wood and thin glass is a breeze LMFAO.
PPE has been non existent the past three days lol itching has been non stop LMFAO, but i need to get a respirator, well new carts at least.
was going to use and angle grinder for smoothing out once i remove the stringers. and other areas, the cutting part with it is what makes me nervous, if it was metal (what i am use to using one for) i wouldn't think twice.
poly, just due costs. if i didnt have to pay the tool man every week, i would go with the epoxy. basically wouldn't break my heart if i mess something up with it and had to cut it back out or toss it, plywood, poly, and CSM are nice and low cost. i now really wish i restored a boat while in the navy.... heck i had all the epoxy id ever need when working over helo blades

 

[Scherfz1]

dezmond BTW your thread has me wanting to convert my 14' to a center console but my ol lady would not be happy lol love me a center console.

 

[Redtruck12]

I used an oscillating tool for pretty much all the big stuff circular saw for the decking, before grinding and found that it worked really well, low dust.
the dirty work starts when it’s grinding time.
tyvek suit and a GOOD respirator are a absolute must.

 

[Scherfz1]

ya i need to make sure my mask is still good, and then find filters for it. shouldn't be too hard i would think. still trying to figure a method for removing this foam. i have pry bars and different options but i just cannot believe how dense it is. will be getting sanding pads for the angle grinder. never had a sanding pad on one so this will be interesting

 

[froggy1150]

I used ..... for demo
1.Sawzall with the blades that have teeth on both sides and one side has a radius,you can plunge it in with it.
grinder with 1/8" x 4 cutoff disk. Also used a diamond blade for tile on some
2. Porta power
3. Oscillating tool with a mix of blades. All bimetal , the wood ones dull quick
4. die grinders
5. Skill saw
6. Air hammer with sharp chisel bits
7. Bfg hammer
For the foam
1.pick axe
2.shovel
3.prybars
4 good wood cribbing to pry against

make sure you document everything!
try not to punch thru hull...... but you will. I was all proud that I had not and was at the last little bit of demo and oooooppps

 

[Scherfz1]

Well yesterday and the rest of the weekend we are going to have rain, so it seems work on this will be at a stoppage. Currently having to do all of this outside. I have a friend with a massive garage that is gonna let me work out of at my leisure, but he is out of town currently so I cannot get a key to it. Was really hoping to make massive headway with my half day at work on Saturday and Sunday but oh well

 

[Scherfz1]

so i have been doing some thinking (usually a bad idea) about how much foam actually needs to go back into this boat when time. i have read others say it is critical, others say its not, then you have everyone else who is in between on it.

So is the foam something i could cut back on? i wouldn't mind adding some storage bins to the front of this boat where seating is, but for me to do this i would not be or would be cutting back on the foam to go back in. are there issues with this.

 

[Scherfz1]

also where is the best place on prices for CSM? i have found a couple i do believe and pan on justing a full roll. also tips on poly in bulk as well.

 

[steve_h7]

I used US Composites. Great prices but it can depend on where you are in the country since shipping can really add up. But I can say that the product itself is top notch. :thumb:

 

[Woodonglass]

Foam in a boat is like seat belts. If you're never in a wreck they're really not needed but...If you are well....

 

[Scherfz1]

So it is not raining here in central Ky, so I have managed to work on the boat since noon, I got all of the foam out, all old plywood out, cut down all of the glass work to the hull. What’s left in is the stingers still glassed to the boat and a couple side panels that have been out of my way, outboard controls and wiring.

Next will be the removal of the outboard, haven’t had an extra hand to help me with it, removal of stinger and side panels, then will be sanding down the hull.

question for the pros on here, what is a good way to get the shape of stingers to match what they are now? I have a feeling that when I go to cut them out, there will be nothing to trace or use as a guid. So is it best to get the over all length thickest part, cut out a rectangle and shape them to the hull? or try to get cardboard stencils?

 

[Scherfz1]

so here is some updated photos, i have yet to take cleaned up photos but will get those here in a bit, was about to die from heat exhaustion wearing long sleeves lol. time to start pricing supplies that need to be shipped in to me.

 

[Scherfz1]

thinking on the work to lay the stingers, there are some fiberglass techniques that i need more explanation on that the sticky thread did not cover or links were not active.

ok so how does one get a good bond with fiberglass to wood using poly? from my understanding it doesn't want to well to wood so are some tricks to it.

also what is a layup coating vs the finishing? is the layup just poly without hardener? and when done laying up fiberglass you add hardener to the last layer?

for laying stingers, i have come across some info in another build and it has me wondering. what should the spacing of them between the actual hull? i would have thought you wanted to have them right up on the hull when wrapped in fiberglass, but someone mentioned about bedding them???? i have bedded gun barrels on wood stocks, is this the same concept by using PB layer then placing the stringer in that and having it "floating" till the PB hardens and bonds it to the hull?

laminating stringers, when doing this with CSM, how many layers will i want to encase them in, the current ones appear to be 3/4" plywood and i would say they have 1/4" of glass around them, planned on trying to mimmic them to that spec.

thanks for the info help yall, i am going to keep surfing the web to figure this crap out.

 

[chevymaher]

All fiberglassing has the same amount of hardener. Start to finish.

Roll the resin on the wood first and get it good and wet before csm or 1708 is put on. I had zero problems bonding with it doing it this way. Last layer just keep rolling it till it is all clear.

There is a 1/4 inch gap under the stringer to the hull. It can be filled with PB or nothing. My boat originally had a air gap. Just scrap wood to hold it up. Wood is not supposed to contact the hull it makes a hard spot which could crack the hull.

I encased everything with one layer of csm before it went in. Stringers and bulkheads before tabbing it in. I ran the tabbing up the sides half way first layer and all the way on the second. Then csm again on the top of stringers and bulkheads before deck went on.

Deck I did the bottom side and edges before going in. Cut the holes for the foam before you put it in. Really makes life easier.

Once it was in I foamed it. That lets air escape on the edges. Any overfill has room to escape. No pressure breaking things. When the foam is starting to set up. It is still soft but hard. Use a cross cut wood saw to clean the excess off. Keep a bunch of bricks handy. Put the plugs in and set a brick on them.

Hit it with a wire brush on a drill to clean and prep it for tabbing.

Then tab and put the top layers on as you see fit. I used 1708.

 

[archbuilder]

Looks like you are making progress. I use seacast on pretty much everything but the deck. It is a little more money but I will never have to do it again. That being said, wood works just fine, you just have to be careful to seal everything up! I have used fiberglasssite for my poly and glass. You might want to check with them also. I have ordered a few things from US Composites also. Sounds like you are going with poly, which is my choice because of cost. Its what the rest of the boat is made of so why not. As for prep you need to make sure the existing glass is clean, and then grind it with a coarse grit, I use 36 grit. That will give the poly a good mechanical bite. You want to make sure you have your glass precut and everything laid out. Poly usually goes off pretty fast, especially in summer. The nice thing is it speeds up your layups, but you have to do smaller ones. Also use laminating resin, that eliminates sanding between layups. I don't use waxed resin for much at all. You will need to vary the MEPK depending on the temp, usually the poly will have a temp chart to tell you how much to use. Get lots of plastic quart cups and chip brushes. I also use a 4" roller with short nap for some things. I let the extra ploy fire off in the cups, you can pop it out later and reuse the cup. The ones at lowes seem to work better, Home Depots are thinner. The ones at lowes usally give me 4-6 uses before they fall apart.

 

[Scherfz1]

I use seacast on pretty much everything but the deck. It is a little more money but I will never have to do it again.

see thats just it, i have thought about pulling the caps on the rotted wood and doing cast all though it, it makes sense, less money on wood and resin work, which isnt much but the ease of it is where i see the "savings". and at the same time i didnt know if i was being a person sold on a half ass product or skimping somewhere. i dont hear much abut seacast. but it makes sense to use for time saving efforts. i get i will still have to glass the floor and other things which is fine. but i dont ever want to have to be this deep in the boat ever again.

 

[Redtruck12]

If you do it right with wood and glass, it will outlast you

 

[archbuilder]

It isnt a half *** product, just a more expensive product. There is nothing wrong with wood at all, but eventually water will find its way in. I typically build boats with no intention of reselling them. Seacast is really bulletproof, just a cost adder. You have to ask yourself if you are ok with the cost. I can see it being a selling point later but don't count on getting your $ back. Actually if you bought a boat don't count on getting your $ back lol. Its a great product, not sure if it is a time saver, but you will never have to do it again.

 

[archbuilder]

One other thought, again I think wood and seacast both work well depending on what your final goals are. I had to pull the engine on one of my boats today. I had a hydraulic hose puke oil all over the bilge. When I pulled the engine I unscrewed lag bolts out of the seacast engine mount. The original was wood. I hosed the bilge out filling the lag bolt holes with water.....doesn't matter. If it was wood it would soak it up like a sponge. That being said I would have been a lot more careful if it was wood to keep it dry.