88 Bayliner Trophy 1710 - wet foam and ...?

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Arawak

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It's all the fiddly stuff now.

I have been working on the console, painting and cutting holes. Getting close:

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Not the best photo, the light is harsh and it's just a cell phone camera.

The stuff is all just resting in place... I still have two more coats of paint, I think. i have since cut out the remaining holes for the controls, the tilt/trim switch. and the overheat alarm.

Hooked up fuel fill and vent hoses to new fill on gunwale. If I had trusted my measurements I could have just had a single run from the Perko fill/vent down to the tank, but to be safe I ran hose from the fill and from the tank, and cut/joined them in the middle.

Also finished filling various transom holes with epoxy fairing putty, sanded and prepped, then gel coated over the repairs. The gel coat is of course much whiter than the original, so I'll have to decide whether to gel coat the entire transom or paint it.

Baitwell aerator pump is installed and plumbed.

The other thing I have been working on is a flange to seal the seam between the top and the hull at the back of the motor well. There is quite a gap there, 1/2" in some places. There were a couple of brittle old pieces of plastic covering parts of it before, but those did not seal well. So I decided to make a one piece cover that I will install with sealant.

First I duct taped over the gap, then I covered it with thick poly sheeting:

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Then I laid up a couple layers of 1208 over that, and put epoxy fairing putty over the rough spots

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Still needs some more fairing and sanding before I trim it and then will gel coat over the outside.
 

Arawak

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Thanks... still so much to do... :grumpy:

* finish rear flange
* finish painting console, install in boat
* install everything into the console
* wiring... LOTS of wiring
* make mount for bow mount trolling motor
* install rub rail
* install water box for transducer
* paint blue on hull
* paint/gelcoat transom
* install hatch in motor well
* install sonar phone Wifi box and tranducer
* seats back in
* rear trolling motor mount

Then there's the motor to install, set up, tune....

One day I'll be back on the water.
 

alldodge

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Oh I do understand, been trying to get mine back on the water and I'm closer, but still have some things I have to finish.
 

Arawak

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Finally have a day to work on the boat!

I am making a water box for the transducer out of 4" PVC cut on the same angle as the hull. It gets filled with water and the transducer goes inside.

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The tranducer is screwed into an ice hockey puck, which is screwed onto an end cap

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So far so good.
 

Arawak

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My flange is complete. As described above, it's made of 1208 cloth and epoxy. I trimmed it, sanded, faired, and gelcoated.

It's maybe a bit rough, but it's a fishing boat and this is mid June. It will get put in place with sealant and a couple rivets after the blue paint dries.

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nurseman

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This might be a dumb question, but the water box then goes inside the hull? What is the benifit to doing that vs. just mounting the transducer to the transom?
 
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Arawak

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Which brings us to the trolling motor installation. As you can see from the previous photo, and the one below, I'm going to have to build a mount for the trolling motor because of the shape of the top of the bow:

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Not a huge deal, just some time, plywood, epoxy and fiberglass. The bow light is going to get removed and replaced with a removable one (I don't boat after dark, but I like to be prepared).

My quandary is, do I make it straight, or angled:

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Straight seems better for running the motor, but it's a 60" shaft and when it's retracted is going to be massively in the way.

Angled would mean it would rest alongside the gunwale, and I'd be able to open the anchor locker easier.

Thoughts?
 

Arawak

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This might be a dumb question, but the water box then goes inside the hull? What is the benifit to doing that vs. just mounting the transducer to the transom?

Not a dumb question at all. The box/pipe is filled with water (some use mineral oil, some use antifreeze), and the transducer sits in that. It's sealed up so that it doesn't evaporate.

Mounting it to the transom has a couple drawbacks.

* water tends to rooster tail up when under way
* I have to epoxy a mounting board to the transom (cause i'm NOT screwing into it)
* it could get hit, and knocked off
* there's a wire dangled down the back which is messy

Shoot through the hull costs you the temperature reading (somewhat), but I've never ever used that. So your options are to mount it in epoxy or silicone, or to make a water box. Water box means I can easily switch fishfinders, which appeals to me.
 
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nurseman

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Thanks! I had just never heard of doing it like that. Makes sense though.
 

Arawak

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Waterbox assembled. Haven't tested the seal yet, say 24h-72h. Still have to silicone where the wire comes out. Will likely just duct tape the seam, and take the transducer. If it works well, I'm going to make another one for the SonarPhone T200.

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Arawak

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Rigging tube hooked up. Will cut to size once the motor is on,

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Arawak

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Just finished the final coat of white paint on the console. Tomorrow it will go back in the boat, and I'll start installing everything.

Rub rail goes on tomorrow too, as well as the flange.

To answer my own question above, the bow light comes off, the trolling motor mount is angled such the the trolling motor shaft is in the centre when deployed, and out of the way when stowed. Thanks, me! :)
 
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ahmincha

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Arawak not sure if I missed it but could you explain more about the water box
 

Arawak

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Arawak not sure if I missed it but could you explain more about the water box

Probably not as well as Tom can: Mounting Depth Finder Transducers Inside the Hull

Basically I wasn't really happy with the transducer screwed into the transom for the reasons stated above. The factory transducer was epoxied (or maybe polyestered) against the hull inside the bilge. The trouble is... it's a fair bit of work to get it out if you upgrade your fishfinder, which I am likely to do.

So, I thought I'd try a water box. It's PVC pipe attached to the inside of the hull with something called E6000. Might last a week and fall off... I'm not afraid to fail :)
 

Arawak

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Console is mostly assembled. Still need to finish the steering wheel, and lots of wiring.

PS - thanks Zool for convincing me to go white. So much better than the old blue

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