86 Sea Ray Restoration [Splashed Oct 2017]

[Goldie627]

The intermediate shift shaft is always loosey goosey. No worries. It basically just sits on top of the lower shift shaft when you assemble.

thanks rick! i could not for the life of me remember how it was when i took it out, if the old and new busing have the same amount of play could i just leave the old one? or should i just go ahead and install the new one?

pressing out bushings isnt one of my favoite pasttimes

 

[Goldie627]

If the broken screw is even a little proud of the fiberglass, you might be able to file a slot in it and remove with a slotted screwdriver. If the screw is flush ( or below the surface), you might try an Easy Out.

thanks jas, its below :faint2: im looking up easy out now...

ill probably got get this in the morning...

https://www.harborfreight.com/screw-...-pc-61981.html

or

http://http://www.homedepot.com/p/On...0264/205110987

 

[Goldie627]

hey guys, any tweaks for this plan?

trolling motor battery up front (deep cycle) with fuse block/circuit breaker within 7 inches

starter battery (not sure yet starter, dual purpose or deep cycle) in back for starting motor with fuse block/circuit breaker within 7 inches

what do you guys think between this

https://www.bluesea.com/products/7610/SI-ACR_Automatic_Charging_Relay_-_12_24V_DC_120A

or this?

https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/35/91/Automatic_Charging_Relays/ML-ACRs

so far im leaning towards the ml series

 

[Goldie627]

according to a mercruiser service buliten my 4 banger needs 375cca or 475mca or 90Ah for "minimum required cranking battery size"

the duracell platinum from sams club for 170.00 has 700cca and 105Ah very atractive value for money pretty sure about using it up front for trolling but on the fence about using it in the back for starting and maybe stereo, amp, fishfinder

 

[Goldie627]

im shopping around and like this for my battery fuse holder


https://www.bluesea.com/products/2151/Dual_MRBF_Terminal_Fuse_Block_-_30_to_300A

​problem is in the mercuiser manual it doesnt show a fuse or amp rating, on the electrical diagram page the wires go strait from battery to gound and battery to starter

if i add the terminal fuse how many amps should it be? or how do i figure it out?

thanks!

 

[Rick Stephens]

thanks rick! i could not for the life of me remember how it was when i took it out, if the old and new busing have the same amount of play could i just leave the old one? or should i just go ahead and install the new one?

pressing out bushings isnt one of my favoite pasttimes

If I'm not mistaken, the picture is of the intermediate shift shaft, this is the short brass shaft with the foot on top that mates with the shoe off the bellhousing when you slide the drive on. The intermediate shift shaft has no bushing, it just sits on top of the lower shift shaft - don't forget to install the stainless washer on top of the splined lower shift shaft before you mate upper and lower. And when mating you must have the lower in forward gear and align the intermediate foot directly fore and aft.

Anyway, short answer is the intermediate shift shaft is loose fit and wet on all sides. No seals, no bushing, just a c-clip to keep it in place.

Rick

 

[Goldie627]

the guys at blue seas are awesome! just found out the "starting battery to starter" wire run is exempt from the abyc fuse block 7 inch requirement

the seven inches is for house loads,

i will determine my house load fuse rating by my charging system amperage output and wire size

 

[Goldie627]

If I'm not mistaken, the picture is of the intermediate shift shaft, this is the short brass shaft with the foot on top that mates with the shoe off the bellhousing when you slide the drive on. The intermediate shift shaft has no bushing, it just sits on top of the lower shift shaft - don't forget to install the stainless washer on top of the splined lower shift shaft before you mate upper and lower. And when mating you must have the lower in forward gear and align the intermediate foot directly fore and aft.

Anyway, short answer is the intermediate shift shaft is loose fit and wet on all sides. No seals, no bushing, just a c-clip to keep it in place.

Rick

thanks rick!!! this it what i ordered last week worried about all the play



http://www.ebay.com/itm/23-32632-Ne...ash=item1c7dccabed:g:TJwAAOSw2gxYr6jq&vxp=mtr


i have the ss washer but i did order a new cotter pin, im happy to hear the play is standard,

bushing will be hear today ill look at it and let ya know what happens, thanks for the install tips too!!

 

[Goldie627]

my alternator puts out 55amps max so i can use the m-series ACR from blue seas

pricing the mini add a battery kit now.....

 

[Goldie627]

hey rick, any thought about upgrading my altenator? I see new alternators that put out 110amps compared to my stock that puts out 55max you think it would be a huge difference in charging while the motor's running?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ALTERNA...IRE-1105088-20115005TBA-18-5945-/120823271332

 

[chevymaher]

I got a 110 amp from a astro van for mine. If you take the nut off the serpentine pulley comes right off and the grooved one from your boat fits. Mounting points are the same as the factory one. So it bolts right on. Just need a little wiring. Mainly just a keyed hot to one of the alt wires to excite the field. You would need to got to the junkyard for a plug tho.

 

[Rick Stephens]

hey rick, any thought about upgrading my altenator? I see new alternators that put out 110amps compared to my stock that puts out 55max you think it would be a huge difference in charging while the motor's running?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ALTERNA...IRE-1105088-20115005TBA-18-5945-/120823271332

I run a gas powered kicker and not a battery powered one. I wouldn't need a larger alternator. It surely is a snap to swap in a bigger alternator. Nothing to hurt.

 

[Goldie627]

Hey all, I'm at the boat and been doing wwe with my outdrive for the last 3 hours.... It will not slide on fo nothing, I think I know the problem but don't k ow how to fix it.....

I think the splines on the drive shaft aren't matching up with the coupler.... When I use the alignme tool it goes in and out pretty easy how do I turn the couple? I couldn't turn the universal joint things behind the shaft so I think I have to turn the engine..... But how? Thank you!

 

[Rick Stephens]

You need the outdrive locked int forward and the boat control handle in forward. I use a bungee on the prop to keep pressure on it to keep it in forward. Then, when it stops at the splines, turn the prop a bit counter clockwise, which will also turn the input shaft, and the shaft will drop into the coupler.

 

[Goldie627]

Thanks Rick, but after three hours of wrestling with it and one hour of tag teaming it with Scott, Scott figured it out....

The drive shaft on the upper was seized! and sure enough, I popped off the top of the upper and rust city! It looked like some roux in there lol!

remember way back i put it in the shop to have it tested, well they drained the oil out, I was in no rush to refill it because i wanted to test it for myself but unfortunately i didnt refill it with oil so its been sitting empty for two maybe three years...:faint2:

I smothered the view-able gears and bearings with wd40 and put a prybar through the universal joints?.. Scott gave the pry-bar a few whacks with the ole rubber mallarooney and it broke free:triumphant:

Scott turned it while I continued to spray, thank goodness it was all surface rust, gears are salvageable no noticeable pitting or funkiness inside the case but gonna need bearings, races and seals

Im looking at that sei again but 1300 plus shipping plus install kit vs a couple hundred for bearings races and seals and may be a bearing puller rental or purchase

I don?t think I can take another setback! Im gonna splash this summer if I have to strap a harness to my back and swim that boat across the lake!!!

 

[WOEISMEIGOTTA470]

can anybody reccommend a good value for money starter battery? I found a good deal on a group 31 deep cylce AGM 105 amp hours at sams club for 170.00 most likey gonna snag that for the trolling motor

Believe it or not, I actually got a great deal on a dual purpose marine/rv battery at home depot. Paid like $65 on it, forget the cca...800 maybe?

 

[Goldie627]

hey all,

so i was installing my alphaone.... and that sucker would just not go on.....
well..... well...... well........ isnt that special!

so i pop the top off the upper and rustville usa....... 2+ years with no oil :facepalm:

with some patience, wd40 and scotts help we freed it....

in the heat of the moment caught up in pisstoffedness i ordered a SEI upper, lower and install kit :watermelon:

the sei is on the boat but im kinda stuck.....

should i have throttle in reverse?

i have full throttle, neutral and reverse but no throttle in reverse..... any ideas??

does the boat have to be running?

when in reverse does the throttle cable send commands to the carburater like in forward mode?

thanks guys

 

[Mark72233]

Goldie, I have been away from iboats for awhile between work on the week days and boating every spare minute I have I have gotten behind on everyone else's threads so catching today. Wow your boat is looking awesome. I went with the no frills work/fishing/dive boat look. You went with the it looks better then factory brand new awesome look. Great job on the finishing work. Now get that thing splashed so we can nominate you for Splash of the year. Great job.

 

[Goldie627]

I figured it out guys, lower shift cable was not allowing for proper shifting, adjusted the lower shift cable now I have forward and reverse with throttle

 

[Goldie627]

Thanks Mark! I'm working on it every chance I get