77 Skeeter Wrangler restoration

[poppop51]

Thanks jb, I'll try it at 1 1/2%, I only have my supplies a few days, I hope its not old stuff. I have one more question. I bedded my stringers with PL back in the fall and I'm wondering if I need to sand the PL for the PB to adhere to it? thanks, POPPOP

 

[poppop51]

OK, Now I want to throw something! Yesterday I mixed up my first batch of PB, a small batch, only 2 cups. Took hours to kick. This is what I did.
2 cups resin--4.73ml of MEKP--1/8 cup chopped strand--2 1/2 cups cabosil--75 degree temp.

tonight I mixed up another batch and still no kick 1hr later. This is what I did.
2 cups resin--7.09ml of MEKP--1/8 cup chopped strand--2 1/2 cups cabosil--75 degree temp.
been about 1 1/4hr. and now it's only starting to thicken up a little bit.

what am I doing wrong? Help! thanks, poppop

 

[Woodonglass]

2 cups is about 500 ml soo a 1% MEKP ratio would be 5 ml so your first mix shoulda been fine @ 75 degrees. Tonights is about a 1.5% ratio and it should have kicked a bit faster for sure in a couple of hours unless you have really high humidity. What kind of resin? Have any idea of the MEKP age? It DOES have a shelf life and can go bad. Resin too!!! Even though you buy it NEW that doesn't necessarily mean it's NEW!!!

 

[poppop51]

Thanks Wood, I'm using US Composites 435 polyester layup resin. Nothing is dated, but it was just delivered 4 days ago. Humidity has been a little high but not real high.

 

[jbcurt00]

IF it's only 75F outside, you could go to 2% MEKP and you should still have lots of working time, esp a test batch of 200-250ml.

1.5% is a general starting point, temps go up, %MEKP goes down

Temps go down (but above 60F) %MEKP goes up. So I'd go 1.75%MEKP @ 200ml and see how quick it kicks if you leave it in the mix cup.

Is there a breeze blowing thru a window or a fan circulating fresh air and actually cooling your work surface off? So that where you're putting the PB is actually below 70F surface temp?

I could barely heat my work space this past winter & really struggled to get several batches of epoxy resin to kick.

It's been a good long while, I can't remember how humidity affects cure times.

 

[Woodonglass]

USC is really good about keeping FRESH product. I doubt you got a bad batch but... with your temps and humidity it's a bit strange. You might go to 1.75 to 2% but Not much more to much MEKP can make the mix brittle and cause cracking and that's bad.

 

[poppop51]

ok! Have a few questions. (1) I ran out of cabosil today and i would like to keep moving forward while I wait for more to be delivered. I read here somewhere that others have used different types of material to thicken PB. What would they be? What are the disadvantages?
(2) Do I still use the 1/4" chopped strand in the PB when I glue the new transome to the skin?
(3) I used nice clean Auroco plywood for my stringers. Do I still need to use csm for my first layer or just two layers of 1708?
I will post pictures when I can figure out how to make that happen.
Thanks! POPPOP

 

[Woodonglass]

ok! Have a few questions. (1) I ran out of cabosil today and i would like to keep moving forward while I wait for more to be delivered. I read here somewhere that others have used different types of material to thicken PB. What would they be? What are the disadvantages? You can use Baby Powder or Fine Wood Dust. The problem is that They both absorb water. Polyester resin is NOT 100% totally water resistant. It Does over time allow water to penetrate. Having said this it does take a LONG time and it would have to be in a totally immersed situation. If you are using this in a Non totally immersed situation it's NOT as critical. Soooo, if you're using it on the inside where you shouldn't wouldn't expect a LOT of water for long periods of time...I think, and this is just ME, you'll be fine using either of them to thicken your resin. Epoxy, being much more water resistant, uses wood powder and talc all the time, for thickening agents.
(2) Do I still use the 1/4" chopped strand in the PB when I glue the new transome to the skin? Yes
(3) I used nice clean Auroco plywood for my stringers. Do I still need to use csm for my first layer or just two layers of 1708? Yes and No, It won't hurt anything but, the MFG's all state the the 3/4" Mat stitched to the 17oz fabric is more than ample to provide a good bond to the substrate as long as it's smooth and free of any major gouges or deformities. Based on your description, I think you'll be fine using just the 1708. Just make sure any voids are filled and a good pre-coat of resin is applied.
I will post pictures when I can figure out how to make that happen.
Thanks! POPPOP

See Red Above

 

[poppop51]

Thanks Wood, I think I'll just wait for the cabosil and go with the csm under the 1708 since I already have enough. Thanks again!

 

[Rickmerrill]

Poppop, if I may, I'd like to ask a question of Wood about the use of CSM under 1708. Wood, is the reason for using CSM on rougher surfaces because 1708 is not prone to filling in low spots and might create a nice air bubble at gouges and other deformities? I've had problems getting it to fill in low spots, it tends to want to bridge over them. Or is something else the reason.

 

[poppop51]

hello everyone, I want to fill the hole in the bilge area that is for the livewell drain and move it over about an inch and a half. What would be the best way to do that? thanks.

 

[Woodonglass]

Just mix up some PB and fill it. Is this the hole thru the bulkhead/stringer?

 

[poppop51]

thanks Wood, it comes out next to the drain plug

 

[poppop51]

checking post

 

[poppop51]

Hi everyone, It's been a while since I posted. The work on the boat continues and I have a lot of pictures to post. I am not very good with the computer so I have to get my son to post them for me. I'm getting close to flipping the hull, and I have a few questions.
(1) what do I use to fill any scratches, gouges or imperfections in the hull?
(2)what type of primer to use?
(3)what is the best paint and procedure to use? (my shop is set up to spray if that is an option)
(4)what is a good paint for the bilge area? (I did not use wax)

 

[Rickmerrill]

Hey poppop Wood put a lot of good info in his "Paint Your Boat With Tractor Paint" http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...21#post5172021. It goes into fillers, primer and many other things.

 

[poppop51]

thanks , I'll check it out.

 

[poppop51]

has anyone tried Imron paint?

 

[Woodonglass]

Several members have used it with Great results. It IS pricey!!! You should also finish up with a clear coat finish. It's very nice paint but I've had Great results with the Tractor Paint and after 2 years it's still very glossy and has held up very well. For less than $100 bucks, I have NOOOOO complaints!!! The Imron will be more than double that.

 

[GT1000000]

Yes I did!
Imron® MS600 Polyurethane Topcoat
I got it for the amazing price of ZERO...Thanks to my neighbor...
According to the limited research I did, it goes for about 2-300 $ a kit [a kit consists of a gallon of paint, a gallon of reducer, and a gallon of catalyst, which when mixed gives a yield of 2 gallons of mixed product]...
It is used extensively in high end yacht repaints and can also be used for aircraft...
For the ultimate results it must be sprayed...
I cannot, personally, attest to its wear-ablilty or resistance to the abusive environment of boating, but for the price I got it for, and the look of the finished product on my hull, I currently have ZERO complaints...
PS- it is not absolutely necessary to topcoat with clear...