77' 16ft Starcraftt ss

[GA_Boater]

.....and the prospects of that motor fell through. The search is back on!

iboats sells some nice oar sets. Cut some holes in the new panels and make like a Roman galley.

You just ain't having any luck finding a motor, g0ne! :blue:

 

[g0nef1sshn]

iboats sells some nice oar sets. Cut some holes in the new panels and make like a Roman galley.

You just ain't having any luck finding a motor, g0ne! :blue:

Do they sell keels , masts and sails? Less work than rowing! Not sure what happened with the motor. Maybe the guy ended up goin somewhere else. Thinking it was so close got my butt in gear for the wiring too. Back to searching and leaning back towards a side console for the larger ponies.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Lights came in and here is what im thinking. Pontoon door up front to mount the lights and have a grab bar/handle up there. Only have 4 lights, not 5 as seen in the pic.

Question for the electrical guys.

can I run a pos wire from the switch (spot light switch) to a pos bus up front to connect the 4 lights and save running 4 boat length sets of wire? I would also run a neg bus from bus to bus.

hope that makes sense.

 

[GA_Boater]

Are all the lights going to be wired so it's all or nothing? or 1, 2, 3, or 4 at a time?

 

[g0nef1sshn]

all or nothing for right now. I think once back in a hole ill have a hand held either wired to the battery or a hand held rechargeable for looking around. These are more for runnin out hands free.

 

[GA_Boater]

Then sure. Run a switched fused wire to the front bus and a ground wire to the front ground bus. The fuse size will need to large enough to handle all 4 lights at one time.

If in the future you decide to make it so any of the 4 can be turned on independently, simply wire in 4 switches, each fused to handle one light. That way the original fused switch is the master and you can do 1, 2, 3 or 4 lights as needed with a switch/fuse panel on the pontoon door. A minimum amount of rewiring and it's all on the toon door/light bracket.

Are any other toon parts gonna show up on this old gal?

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Then sure. Run a switched fused wire to the front bus and a ground wire to the front ground bus. The fuse size will need to large enough to handle all 4 lights at one time.

If in the future you decide to make it so any of the 4 can be turned on independently, simply wire in 4 switches, each fused to handle one light. That way the original fused switch is the master and you can do 1, 2, 3 or 4 lights as needed with a switch/fuse panel on the pontoon door. A minimum amount of rewiring and it's all on the toon door/light bracket.

Are any other toon parts gonna show up on this old gal?

Good to know GA thanks. And I do have a backwall I may try wrap around the motor. :facepalm:

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Another 24 hour shift day for me so Im back to drawing and reading up on things. One thing I didn't pay attention to when picking which switch is what was what amp breaker went to each switch. So ill double check that when im home. I also tried reading up on the led's and wire size/fuse/relay stuff.

From what I gather is I don't need a relay and a 10 amp breaker should be fine. I could be wrong. But would adding inline fuses be a good Idea between the front led's and the positive bus bar?

19 hours to go....

 

[GA_Boater]

10 amp for the front lights is probably good. If it pops, go with 15.

An inline fuse could be a good idea. If one of the front LEDs gives up the ghost and shorts, all the lights will be out. With the inlines, only the bad boy will be out.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Had to change the light layout a little. My friend runs the same ones and since they are more flood lights than beam they should be spread out more. Now I mounted two to the gunnel at the front of the walls and I will angle those more out to the sides on a separate switch. I will only have two up on the front wall which I got painted yesterday. This of course has me rethinking the wiring and bus bars up front too. I hope to get these all done this weekend.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Heres the two mounted. I have a large square back plate rivrted under the gunnel and another small one on the top side to support the lights.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Woohoo, got some wiring and mounting done...


Guess I did this plate on the top side because of the rub rail bolts getting in the way.






This is the larger plate on the under side and smaller on top.




Testing the wires before running them under the gunnel.




I didnt do the POS bus bar because I bought grounding bars. So I ran a ground bar wire, and tied two lights to two wires back to switches.





I used the hinges from the doors on the bottom of this mount and will bolt the sides

 

[Watermann]

Uh they all look the same to me... little boxes.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Uh they all look the same to me... little boxes.

Slow on this one? what little boxes?

Only ask cause my phone only showed little "pic shoulda been there boxes" but the computer shows the actual pics. First time thats happened here.

 

[Watermann]

Yeah sorry. no pics showed on the post.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Ok I will redo them...

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Heres a few more.

 

[jbcurt00]

Yeah sorry. no pics showed on the post.

Yep, empty little squares

EDIT: pix are posted now.. oops, because you posted them a 2nd time :doh:

 

[Watermann]

Now your pics showed, you should have a good curtain of light out in front with that spread of leds.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

ok, I tried looking at the breakers but couldnt tell which one was what.But when I turned the running lights off while the spots where on, the spots doubled in brightness! what do you think causes that?

Im not an electrical guru. Could it be from what lights are connected to a 5 vs 10 amp breaker?