'69 offshore rebuild- BMerr

[BMerr509]

WM- yes i actually re-went through your thread (think i've been through them a dozen or so times now) and didnt see where you say what material it was made out of. Perfect. They have a $200 galvanized option- worth it or no? if not, it comes painted so there's that.

Ez- good on the anectdote, now i'm more comfortable with steel. I like the shoreland'r too because it comes with bearing buddies, which i actually like

 

[Watermann]

Galvanized trailer of the correct type and size is well worth 200.

 

[bunnymoney]

Agreeing with WM, if the indicator is in the green- you are really good to go. FYI: In the terrible event you need to use it, be sure to whack the base/bottom of the extinguisher hard on the floor once or twice to un-cake the packed dry chemical. If you don't do this, it may not discharge the powder properly and just blow out the propellant.

 

[BMerr509]

Right so this one is a Shorland'r SLV2314L for two grand, then 200 more for the galvanized. I know we aren't supposed to talk pricing but Iboats doesn't offer trailers that i'm aware of. Figure my boat weighs in right at 1000#, 400# motor, then some misc gear at #100, i'm still way under but when i load up to go on camping trips i'll approach 2000#. The marina is willing to include special fit to my boat and adjust it for me as needed.

 

[ezmobee]

That price is terrible. I got a quote for a brand new Venture trailer for my 18' SS a while ago that was like barely over $1k.

 

[BMerr509]

I've heard horrible things about the ventures though. I could buy a venture 2300 for 1350. with load guides. Apparently the shorland'r is much better quality.

 

[Watermann]

Right so this one is a Shorland'r SLV2314L for two grand, then 200 more for the galvanized. I know we aren't supposed to talk pricing but Iboats doesn't offer trailers that i'm aware of. Figure my boat weighs in right at 1000#, 400# motor, then some misc gear at #100, i'm still way under but when i load up to go on camping trips i'll approach 2000#. The marina is willing to include special fit to my boat and adjust it for me as needed.

Oh 200 more so 2200 bucks for a new trailer. That is pretty expensive if you're bottom feeding like most of us and a few 100 more than my local EZ-Loaders go for. I like bunk trailers that are wide so the boat is cradled down inside the fenders rather than the high riding roller types that are more narrow. I also like having a stout 3500# axle. The SC trailer I rebuilt for my SS is an Escort.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

got my painted steel trailer for 700$ on CL. Was a garage kept one saw water twice a year. Really wishing I held out for a galvanized or aluminum though only because of salt water maybe use. This thing was is in Brand new condition for 10 plus years old too. Only rust now is from me moving the front bow support around during my flipping over the boat. But what I love is it is wide and I can step anywhere on the outer frame and climb right in. Like mentioned above. it cradles the boat and rides low.

 

[Pusher]

Hi Bmerr509,

I just read through and think I'll "subscribe" if you don't mind.

I have a few thoughts if you like. Get the 90hp motor minumum. It will fit your dream boat Lund, will haul bootay on your current boat, shouldn't drink too much gas, and is a desireable hp in case you decide to sell.

Second, you mentioned seat mount options. Woodonglass has a wood box style that epoxies to the floor eliminating screw holes. I built a similar lower profile version but mine hasn't been tested. No screws = a win though.

Third and lastly, you mentioned a kicker a year ago. I wouldn't hesitste to run the older motor you mentioned if that's yours. If not, I'd go down and get an electric trolling motor and a second battery and call it a day. If you ever sold the boat you could throw the troller on amd fish. It won't set you back in your seat but it'll save you hundreds of hours on your main motor and keep the exhaust at bay. Plus you'd have a backup battery in a pinch.

Oh and have you thought about using the side panels for rod storage and leave the floor in one piece?

As someone mentioned earlier, having the front casting seat permanently fixed might block your visibility.

Just some thoughts.

Good on you for getting a bucking gun!

Nice job so far. I'm wanting an tinny more and more every day and you're not helping the itch!!!

 

[BMerr509]

Hey Pusher, welcome aboard! Good tips, the 90 for sure is the minimum and probably what i'll end up with. Won't be buying until march so i have some time to think. The holes have already been cut for the pedastal bases, i think it'll be alright. for the trolling motor i will wait and see how many hours i put on a year from trolling. I've already cut the holes for my rod locker. Also i made the front casting deck seat removeable! Thanks!

Here are some pics of my attempt at a vinyl job, i knew this would be the most difficult part because i'm completely foreign to the stuff. I used HH-66 adhesive which is actually great to work with. Same consistency as epoxy and easily washes off when still wet. My first panel (shown in these two pics) turned out dreadful with many air bubbles. My second one is looking better but it ain't gonna win any awards. The main reason i went to vinyl instead of paint is protection anyways. A few air bubbles shouldn't hurt a whole lot. I'll prob be the only one who notices. Tonight I'm going to try to use my AL angle as a squeegee to limit the bubbles. Any tips for getting them out now? lol

also ordered my 17 gal tank that's going under my casting deck. Is there anyone who has done one of these with a good walk through? no idea what i'm doing with that. It's rectangular and i'm thinking about running my filler hose up through the front aluminum piece on the gunwhales.

Lastly, i used about 7 staples to pin down the vinyl on the underside- do i need to seal them? I used adhesive also.

 

[jbcurt00]

Get a laminate roller

 

[ezmobee]

I don't wanna get your hopes up too much but.............I had some air bubbles that went away on their own.

 

[Decker83]

When you use the roller, start from the center and roll out to the edge.. I used a rolling pin before and the Admiral nearly :fish: me to death with it..:facepalm:

 

[BMerr509]

Thanks for the pointers. Irnoically most worked their way out and my second one appears to be much better. I worked on getting the small pieces of 3/4" cut for the second layer of seat base securement (idk if that's a word). layer one of epoxy. won't get to anything tonight.

For the fuel tank, i'm putting it under my front casting deck. Is it OK to have the fuel line, vent, etc toward the front of the boat? i'm concerned that when the front of the boat is up (before planing) all the fuel will rush to the rear of the tank and no gas will be pumped to the motor. Maybe i'm wrong? I'd like to have the fittings all in the very front though. Need some help on this.

 

[mickyryan]

gas tanks have to be rated for that because of sloshing , you have to put most tanks in back half of boat for that reason

 

[Pusher]

Only thing I can think of is if your pickup is a rubber hose going down to the bottom of the tank. If so, you might e able to add some hose and extend to the rear of the tank. That might take a coule 90? fittings too, but that could get tricky.

Sorry, that's all I have.

 

[BMerr509]

it probably would help if i told you which tank i bought.

http://www.iboats.com/17-Gallon-Per...1842663--session_id.078314980--view_id.391547

It shall just fit! I can just have it so the fittings are closest to the stern, its not a huge deal. Just more convenient. Someone on here must have had the same idea i have!!!

 

[bunnymoney]

From my point of view, unless you are in a flexible hulled boat, the angle of the tank in the bow should be the same as the angle of the tank in the rear when accelerating. If anything, raising the tank higher into the air would add a very minor pressure increase in the fuel line to the motor. "Water" pressure in a line is increased by 0.433psi for every foot of height.

 

[BMerr509]

Hm. That's a good point Bunny. I guess my problem is if all the gas is in the rear of the tank, and the fitting is in the top front of the tank, and there's only a 1/4 tank of gas, will that tank be pressurized and pull the gas to the motor?

 

[Pusher]

Looks like the pickup is threaded in. You could probably use a heat gun and form some PVC at a 90? to connect up to the pickup line.

I see what you mean about the bow rise during planing. Seems like if it's in the bow then you would have 17' of full fuel line while planing though. Could you add a ehicle fuel filter in line for an extra quart or so of gas? Some aircraft like the Piper Cub use something similar called a header tank.



That's too bad you can't flip it 180?