'69 offshore rebuild- BMerr

[BMerr509]

It will have to do. If i have to redo the floor in a few years, so be it. It's a $300 risk. I fit the rest of the floor in. Also epoxied the rear most floor sheet. Not a bad idea WM, i was thinking about doing that for the floor locker. Thinking about putting the gas tank underneath the front casting deck for weight distribution purposes. I'm really undecided on what i want to do with the stern though.

 

[BMerr509]

Local lumber mill has 3/4" MG plywood for $83 a pop. should i grab it rather than using the CDX? I'm worried about this exterior crap.

 

[BWR1953]

Here's how I see it... if I'm spending $500, $1,000, $2,000, $3,000 or whatever on a restore or mod, why on earth would I care about trying to save $20 on a non-marine sheet of plywood? I'm going marine grade all the way.

 

[BMerr509]

That's a great point BWR. You're opinion agrees with my gut feeling. Why am i slingin' epoxy and wasting money on glue/vinyl on a halfass product? I should have looked at the ply more closely when i brought it home. No wonder it was so cheap. They agreed to take my scraps back along with my one full sheet. Figure at least i have the pattern. They could have ordered ACX or MG. I'm going the MG route. If i'm going to go cheap, i'd say the two places i don't wanna go cheap is the floor and the engine!

 

[BMerr509]

Hope you all had a Merry Christmas!!!

Got my marine ply, PVC for the rod holders, Foam board cut to hold said PVC, the rest of my epoxy, alum floor supports, rivets and brushes. I'm going to line my rod locker with 1/2" insulation too.

My next purchase will be seat bases- i was going to go with threaded kingpin but iboats says they're not to be used at speeds over 5 mph... i have no experience with boat seat bases so any input here will be nice. If the 5 mph is true, i'll go with Taper-lock.

I'm also debating on what type of latch i can use for my rod locker, Rob which one did you use for your SN? i saw pics of it and like that it is flush mount. I know which hinge to use but the latch doesn't seem to be sold from iboats...

I'm hoping to have my floor fully epoxied by Monday (two coats per side, 4 coats on the edges). Somehow, i caught a mosquito in between coat 1 and 2 for my rear floor piece and basically fossilized it like Hammond from Jurrasic Park LOL i'll try to grab a pic of it before laying vinyl down...

 

[Watermann]

The recessed hatch handles I used on my SN weren't latches, just hatch pulls and are a bit of work as you have to chisel out the layers of ply to get them to fit right.

 

[Brackett221]

From Watermann's link of hatch pulls there are a few comb of Pulls and Latches. Some have a drill a hole option, but are not perfectly flush and some have built in locks.

 

[mickyryan]

hmm you be able to cover all that with 2 gallons of epoxy?

 

[BMerr509]

Hi guys- WM how do you keep your hatches down then? are they just a snug fit?

Welcome along Brackett. Yup i've seen some of them, just gotta decide which ones.

Micky- i should have pointed out that i had 1.5 gallons of epoxy left after the transom, but you're still right, it is a concern of mine whether i have enough or not.

Got the first coat on the backside of the rear floor piece, as well as the small piece in front of the casting deck. Worked on the casting deck and got the 3 hatches i want cut out and epoxied the first coat onto the casting deck floor.

Question on the gas tank- i'm putting a small moeller up under the casting deck (12 gal, which is all i will ever need) in order to distribute the weight. What fittings or other items do i need for it? i would love to put a filler tube on the casting deck if possible. I've looked through all the threads and haven't found a really detailed build with a fuel tank, least not at the beginner level i'm at. I've never done one before, and honestly, if i had to scratch the idea i wouldn't be too bummed about it!! Sorry about my blurry pics... The seat pedestal isn't installed yet, just getting a feel for what it will look like.

 

[No-AH]

Here's the type of gas tank [below casting deck] installed of late....http://www.iboats.com/19-Gallon-Perm...view_id.366915
I spoke at length with a tech at moeller and they were terrific answering questions I had for fittings and locations/placement of these fittings.
As for the seat pedestals, are you planning to move seats around?
If so, you may want to have the removable type like these
http://www.iboats.com/Plug-In-trade-...iew_id.1186275

 

[mickyryan]

I just sucked up a ton of rezin when I did floor that's only reason I mentioned but I was heavy with resin anyways think even wood called me out on it

 

[BMerr509]

Welcome No-AH- awesome build you got going on, you did yours in a timely fashion, at least to this point. The front seat i'm actually planning on keeping fixed, the rest will be removeable. I'm opting to go taper lock with springfield- marine. As you can see, i'm not fully sure if i want to keep the casting deck seat fixed which is why it's not installed yet. As for the fuel tank, i know which one i want to buy, i'm just not sure what else i need to buy with the tank. i know i'll need a hose line for gas going into the tank from deck. Venting will not be an issue because it'll only be enclosed on three sides. The site says something about a return line and sending unit. I've no idea what either are (gosh i feel dumb lol) i'm assuming the return line goes to the motor and the sending unit is for the dash gauge?

Micky- My MG isn't sucking it up too bad, but i'm certainly laying it on thick. Figure there's no such thing as too much, but maybe i'm wrong :facepalm:

 

[No-AH]

I forgot to add this link from toneeees ......which may help you.
http://forums.iboats.com/articles/props-motors-parts/8623397-how-to-install-permanent-fuel-tanks

 

[BMerr509]

Thanks NoAH, that makes it easy. Where do you guys usually ground to on a boat? I know everyone is against grounding to the aluminum body.

 

[No-AH]

This is what we found and followed from my buddy's Lowe fishing boat.......
If your boats' fuel tank has a fuel gauge sending unit, connect the static ground to the sender and the sender ground to the battery negative/ground bus.

If your boat doesn't have a sender, connect the static ground wire directly to the battery negative/ground bus.

 

[ezmobee]

i'm not fully sure if i want to keep the casting deck seat fixed which is why it's not installed yet

When my casting deck seat is installed, it does impair driving visibility.

 

[BMerr509]

NoAH- my boat never had a fuel tank installed, always portable 5 gallon. I hear what you're saying though. I'll buy the sending unit and wire it like you said, should have plenty of ground locations on my fuse panel.

EZ- never thought of that. I could offset the seat a few inches to the left. Wonder how terrible that would function/look...

 

[Watermann]

The SN came with those hatch pulls from the factory. With 3/4" ply for weight and being a snug fit they stay closed even when trailering down the hwy.

 

[BMerr509]

Got some progress done, as well as 2 days of ice fishing! Take a look... first coat of epoxy on all floor pieces, one piece is completely done, casting deck needs only one more coat. Redneck fabbed rod holders for the rod locker and a few aluminum supports. First time using a rivet gun, pretty awesome! The one thing i didn't take into consideration when making my floatation under the floor was how the seat posts are going to dig into the insulation, so much so i probably have to cut some of it away. not a huge deal, just something i'd remember for next time The aluminum angle stiffens everything up, and the flat bar is just for support. i'm going to run flat bar on all the seams of the floor boards. What do you guys typically cut aluminum angle with? i dont have a band saw so i used a dremmel. probably a more efficient way than that! Hope you all had a good christmas/new years.

 

[Watermann]

Looking good with the foam job and redneckery rod holders look like they'll work just fine. :thumb: