65 starcraft

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,926
Re: 65 starcraft

Looks like you're makin progress. What's your next steps? Have you got your materials all lined up? Have you decided on how you are going to build and install your transom? Have you tested your stringers for rot yet? I sure ask a lot of questions don't I??? But then again, you ASKED for em!!!!:eek:


I'm just sayin...:D
 

jplscrapie

Seaman
Joined
Jul 25, 2010
Messages
73
Re: 65 starcraft

indeed i have a plan. im gonna finish the transom first,and remove the remaining stringers and ribs,then deal with the hole in the keel problem(possible flip) then fit transom and stringer templates. im not sure of the glassing poly resin stuff yet. i made a quick band-aid this summer with water-weld and two layers of mat in the keel from the p.o.beaching on the rocks. what kind of wood should i use for the new stringers? i saw mick110 use sea cast and others use ply. anyone? and were the heck is spell-check
 

jplscrapie

Seaman
Joined
Jul 25, 2010
Messages
73
Re: 65 starcraft

the transom is out and i made a template my budjet is tight ,im gonna use two sheets of 3/4 ply and bond them with PL and clamp.do i need cloth or mat between the two sheets? im going the poly route my sister works in retail boat hardware and can get me discounts. i feel the west system is far too costly any thoughts?
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 26, 2007
Messages
23,767
Re: 65 starcraft

No mat or cloth between the sheets if you're going the PL route.
 

Huron Angler

Admiral
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Apr 7, 2009
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6,025
Re: 65 starcraft

That will be one classic rig when you are done, and I can't think of a better model to follow that micks project.:D

I went with Clarkcraft for my epoxy resin, pretty good prices there. Not sure what they have as far as poly resin goes.

USComposites.com seems to be a good one as many folks here use their products.

Good luck to ya, always nice to see a vintage Starcraft getting some love:)
 
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jplscrapie

Seaman
Joined
Jul 25, 2010
Messages
73
Re: 65 starcraft

Before i took her apart i had the pleasure to cruise,she is a screamer.i cant wait to put her back together for a splashdown in narragansett bay,there are many clams and quahogs waiting for me. I think it was origanaly a sears model from the reserch here on the forums, anyone have one like it?
 

jplscrapie

Seaman
Joined
Jul 25, 2010
Messages
73
Re: 65 starcraft

a few more questions; for bonding the two sheets,which PL product do you use? i saw about ten kinds of loctite PL. also how about 3m 5200? thanks
 

jplscrapie

Seaman
Joined
Jul 25, 2010
Messages
73
Re: 65 starcraft

another problem it would seem the sole of the boat has pushed up from underneath,right in the middle of the hull(probably from trailer rollers) i can not get a straigt egde from port to starboard,only for and aft stringers ,the keel i plan to put seacast, but not until i square up the sole. im thinking of putting cinder blocks fore and aft,both sides of the keel,then setting the keel beam and stringers....but after they cure im afraid the sole will only pop back up and the stringers will snap after i remove the cement blocks. i dont want to keep putting time and money in to it,i would rather find another hull ......anyone thoughts
 

jplscrapie

Seaman
Joined
Jul 25, 2010
Messages
73
Re: 65 starcraft

Here is a pic. notioe the upward push on the hull behind the roller to the right.when i took her off the trailer,it still retains the curve. will the cement blocks work? I have about 12 blocks
 

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Re: 65 starcraft

Here is a pic. notioe the upward push on the hull behind the roller to the right.when i took her off the trailer,it still retains the curve. will the cement blocks work? I have about 12 blocks

JP,

Usually that curvature is caused by rotted stringers and improperly adjusted trailer rollers/bunks.

You can try to use the cement block trick and see. Another way would be to use a piece of 4x4 across the boat and up under the gunwales. Put a small hydraulic jack in between the 4x4 and the sole and jack the curve out. Either way will require you to suspend the boat some to allow for the hull to move outward. If you get the stringer in correctly it should maintain the hull shape until you get it glassed in again (or at least improve it)
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 26, 2007
Messages
23,767
Re: 65 starcraft

Another way would be to use a piece of 4x4 across the boat and up under the gunwales. Put a small hydraulic jack in between the 4x4 and the sole and jack the curve out.

That's better than the dumb idea I had floating around in my head involving a big board and ceiling of his garage :p
 

jplscrapie

Seaman
Joined
Jul 25, 2010
Messages
73
Re: 65 starcraft

the cap is off,no gunwhales,when i push down from above it has some give,but i dont want my full weight in the hull,thus the blocks.so i figure put the two fore and aft stringers then the blocks,install the transom and bilge,then first aft port to starboard stringer ,then seacast keel, and keep going towards foreward bulkhead.
 

jplscrapie

Seaman
Joined
Jul 25, 2010
Messages
73
Re: 65 starcraft

anyone else have this problem? how did you fix it? can i just keep on going and move on?
 
Joined
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Messages
941
Re: 65 starcraft

JP,

It hard to advise without pics but it sounds like you have a plan so go for it. You know you have a slight curve so try your best to get it out. Nothing will be perfect but then again it probably doesn't need to be so don't stress over it. Keep on rolling. Post some more pics so we can follow. Also when you are done make sure the trailer rollers are under your new stringers so the boat is properly supported on the trailer.
 

Yacht Dr.

Vice Admiral
Joined
Feb 26, 2005
Messages
5,581
Re: 65 starcraft

As stated above it looks like your hull is deflecting due to improper trailer adjustments ( rollers ).

Do you have a good pic for the inside of the hull in that area ?

YD.
 

jplscrapie

Seaman
Joined
Jul 25, 2010
Messages
73
Re: 65 starcraft

ill post some pics later today, but even off the rollers it still pushes up,I ran it this summer it was fine, i beleive the stringers were already broken,plus the poor roller setup from the p.o. but i still got her up on plane,no problem. It will just be harder to shape new stringers in that section of hull. thanks
 

Yacht Dr.

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Feb 26, 2005
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5,581
Re: 65 starcraft

Here is the thing Im worried about jpl..

That much deflection would normally delam the fiberglass in the area ( unless its been sitting over a long period of time on a defunct trailer setup warping the glass ). But with a keel like that you should have fractured glass .. I could be wrong.

To get in back into shape I have 2 ideas..

1. Buy some bowed 4x4s ( warped ). Install the 4x4's via 3/8 bolts on the outside ( the crown away from the hull ). Through bolt the 4x4 with the nuts/washers Inside the hull. Tighten the nuts from the inside till your glass shape comes back. Install the stringers with glass ( make notches in the stringers if they have to overlay the nuts ..and making sure before you glass over the stringer to pack the notches with the nuts with glass putty to secure the nuts so you can remove the bolts ). When cured .. unscrew the bolts and 4x4 from the bottom ( leaving the nuts/washers encapsulated in the stringer system ). fix the holes on the outside using standard small hole glass repairs. Its bottom painted so the finish does not have to be exact.

OR.

2. Get 2 2x4'rs about 4' long and drill 1/2' holes at each end of them ( this is going to be your bottom support ). Get a 4x4 that spans across the deck joint above your warped area and drill and lag bolt an eye on both sides downward. Connect a ratchet strap through each common end of the 2x4's and hook on the eyes of the 4x4. Then connect a second ratchet strap through the other common end of the 2x4's and connect to the same eyes of the 4x4. Tighten till semi tight. ( the 2x4's on the bottom should be on port and starboard goining for and aft perferably on a strake ). Then tighten your ratchet straps carefully untill the 4x4 is nice and tight across the top ( your basically making a cradle strap across your boat but not in your repair area ). Then you can use as stated above a jack and wood to press your warped hull into shape from the above 4x4 strapped over your repair ).

Its kinda hard to explain..but its ez to do.. ( I like #1 myself ).

Any questions please ask..

YD.
 
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