60HP 1989 Johnson outboard low compression

Toshi

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Sorry-----It takes more than 1 weekend to become proficient in rebuilding a 3 cylinder Johnson outboard.-----Work slowly / carefully and best to get a factory manual !!
Sorry for the late reply.
I have a service manual on CD that I bought on ebay. Is this the factory manual you are talking about? If not, where can I get it?
 

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havoc_squad

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Sorry for the late reply.
I have a service manual on CD that I bought on ebay. Is this the factory manual you are talking about? If not, where can I get it?
No, it is not. That is a Clymer or Seloc aftermarket service manual, not factory.

The common joke about those aftermarket service manuals here about how incomplete and inaccurate they are is they make good fire starting material, decent paperweights, and maybe useful as toilet paper in an emergency.

If your outboard is truely 1989 60 HP and not a frankenstein of mixed parts, then OMC/BRP manual part # 507756 is what you are looking for.

Right now E-Bay has three of them in physical book form and https://www.outboardbooks.com/ is currently one of the few or only legally authorized resource by BRP/Evinrude to re-print the old service manuals no longer in production.
 

Toshi

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No, it is not. That is a Clymer or Seloc aftermarket service manual, not factory.

The common joke about those aftermarket service manuals here about how incomplete and inaccurate they are is they make good fire starting material, decent paperweights, and maybe useful as toilet paper in an emergency.

If your outboard is truely 1989 60 HP and not a frankenstein of mixed parts, then OMC/BRP manual part # 507756 is what you are looking for.

Right now E-Bay has three of them in physical book form and https://www.outboardbooks.com/ is currently one of the few or only legally authorized resource by BRP/Evinrude to re-print the old service manuals no longer in production.
Thank you very much ! The manual I got is really a joke and iOS not very helpful…
 

Toshi

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I placed an order for the genuine manual and it should arrive in the beginning of next week.

Damn it. I wish I could return the useless fake manual that I bought on eBay.
 

Toshi

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Before the genuine factory manual arrives early next week, I would like to go ahead and resurface the cylinder head.
How flat should it be?
I am expecting that the requirement of the flatness should be on the manual, but I don’t have it yet.

Thank you !
 

Thirsty Endgrain

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Before the genuine factory manual arrives early next week, I would like to go ahead and resurface the cylinder head.
How flat should it be?
I am expecting that the requirement of the flatness should be on the manual, but I don’t have it yet.

Thank you !

You can lay a sheet of 400 or so grit sandpaper on a flat surface, a chunk of stone countertop, a big piece of thick glass, anything that is dead flat. Then pass the head in a figure 8 pattern. I like to use the 3m sandpaper that has a semi sticky back surface so it doesn't slide around, can't remember what it's called, but bigger hardware stores should have it.
 

Toshi

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You can lay a sheet of 400 or so grit sandpaper on a flat surface, a chunk of stone countertop, a big piece of thick glass, anything that is dead flat. Then pass the head in a figure 8 pattern. I like to use the 3m sandpaper that has a semi sticky back surface so it doesn't slide around, can't remember what it's called, but bigger hardware stores should have it.
Thank you. Yes. I have an adhesive spray so that the sand papers will be in place while resurfacing. What’s the size of the feeler gauge to check the flatness after resurfacing?
 

havoc_squad

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Thank you. Yes. I have an adhesive spray so that the sand papers will be in place while resurfacing. What’s the size of the feeler gauge to check the flatness after resurfacing?
Max allowed warpage is covered in the factory service manual. Not certain on the max overall minimum head thickness. I won't guess since this isn't a V4 crossflow being worked on. Best to wait and not get bad data.

+1 to using thick mirror glass for resurfacing heads and head covers. 1 square foot sections are commonly sold at places like Home Depot/Lowes/etc. Did that myself and worked out fine.
 
Last edited:

saltchuckmatt

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Jul 19, 2019
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Before the genuine factory manual arrives early next week, I would like to go ahead and resurface the cylinder head.
How flat should it be?
I am expecting that the requirement of the flatness should be on the manual, but I don’t have it yet.

Thank you !
Read the whole thread...all 6 pages of it. My advice? But a rebuilt power head exchange or have it machined and rebuild it yourself but don't hone it. The time and energy it takes it not worth the return. Motor is abused or used up. In my world if you need a carbureted 50-60 or 70 hp outboard go find a used one. Much cheaper and if you hunt around long enough you can find a good one. Last thing, once you spend all the time on the upper end, what do you think the inside of your gearcase looks like. Just saying. Peace!
 

909

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My advice sell everything buy brand used.

Life's too short

The boating season is even shorter
 

Toshi

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Read the whole thread...all 6 pages of it. My advice? But a rebuilt power head exchange or have it machined and rebuild it yourself but don't hone it. The time and energy it takes it not worth the return. Motor is abused or used up. In my world if you need a carbureted 50-60 or 70 hp outboard go find a used one. Much cheaper and if you hunt around long enough you can find a good one. Last thing, once you spend all the time on the upper end, what do you think the inside of your gearcase looks like. Just saying. Peace!
I agree.
 

Toshi

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Hello,
For needle bearings on the connecting rod and piston, I don’t see grease on them from outside. Maybe the grease was all washed away over time. My question is should I disassemble bearings and holder and add some grease on them or just putting 2 stroke oil without disassembling is OK?
Thank you.
 

Dave1027

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Any grease used inside the powerhead must be gasoline soluble. I don't know about Johnson but Mercury makes "needle bearing assembly lube" specifically for this kind of application.
 

Toshi

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Any grease used inside the powerhead must be gasoline soluble. I don't know about Johnson but Mercury makes "needle bearing assembly lube" specifically for this kind of application.
Thanks. I now understand the grease is just for assembling needle bearings and it’s normal the grease is gone after a while. I will just make sure the bearings are smooth and put some 2 stroke oil to put piston assy back to crank rod.
 

saltchuckmatt

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Any grease used inside the powerhead must be gasoline soluble. I don't know about Johnson but Mercury makes "needle bearing assembly lube" specifically for this kind of application.
Dave, I think he doesn't know what you mean because he thinks he doesn't need it. Not sure how 2 stroke oil will hold stuff together. Or maybe I'm not reading this correctly.
 

Toshi

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Aug 7, 2021
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My question is…

Is needle bearing grease necessary to prevent wear of the bearings on pistons?

I couldn’t find a good answer (on Google) so I am asking here.

Thanks
 

tphoyt

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Jun 10, 2010
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The assembly grease will help you keep the needle bearings in place durning assembly.
Without it you may end up going insane.
 

havoc_squad

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The assembly grease will help you keep the needle bearings in place durning assembly.
Without it you may end up going insane.
+1 to this.

It is incredibly difficult to keep needle bearings in place for assembly without it.

I recommend putting the stuff in refrigerator and assembling in a cool room.

+80 degree F temperature melts it rather quickly into liquid if not refrigerated.

Make sure you pay attention to the connecting rod lube hole orientation so it faces upwards towards flywheel and that the piston is put on correctly facing the right way.
 
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